What do I do now?

[brucejohn]

Brought home the chassis from the powder coater, what do I do now? Go play! WooHoo :)

[jb_]

Put some land rover on it!

(and take more pics as you do)

[amcordo]

Are you kidding? And ruin a perfectly good chassis!?


Put some land rover on it!

(and take more pics as you do)

[Nium]

That chassis is way to clean better go bash a knuckle and bleed on it some.:D Can't wait to see the rest of it on there!

[SafeAirOne]

Brought home the chassis from the powder coater, what do I do now?

Ship it to Manchester, New Hampshire. I'll be waiting for it. ;)

[brucejohn]

Thank you all. I can't wait to put some blood, sweat and land rover on there. This chassis going to be driven, is Manchester on the way to Middlebury from Texas?

[Bostonian1976]

Ship it to Manchester, New Hampshire. I'll be waiting for it. ;)

Mark it's an 88 - are you going to remove a couple of doors off of yours?

On the other hand I have two very sad 88's that need some support (pun intended)

[SafeAirOne]

Mark it's an 88 - are you going to remove a couple of doors off of yours?

Is it? Hmm...Looks 109ish to me, but I could be wrong. BTW Jason--Your PM box is full.



This chassis going to be driven, is Manchester on the way to Middlebury from Texas?

Yes it is. Well...it can be. :)

[brucejohn]

Mark it's an 88 - are you going to remove a couple of doors off of yours?

If it's an 88 I have more work ahead than I thought!


Yes it is. Well...it can be. :)

Excellent I love those round about journeys you can't get google maps to plan for you.

[brucejohn]

Here are a couple of updates. A little progress, now she rolls again.

[jac04]

Looks great! Can't wait to see the project progress.

[brucejohn]

Thank you. This wasn't supposed to be such a project. Long time drooler over rovers I purchased her and sold my old rig without checking the chassis well enough. A little more than a month later she started coming apart with serious cancer and bondo. This was going to be a driver, so hopefully I can get her back together fairly quickly.

I am going nuts not driving her.

Jac04...I can't tell you how much I appreciate your thread. Reading and looking through I have learned a great deal.

As you can see the rear end sits up so high the OME shocks are fully extended. I doubt the tub and top will settle her much. At least I can add a rear mounted tank without worrying.

[jac04]

Remember that the spring rate of the rear springs is much less than the front. This means that they will compress quite easily as weight is added to the rear. Don't worry too much about it right now.

[brucejohn]

Thanks again Jac04. After reinstalling the drive train today I was surprised how much the rears compressed. While only about 3/4" all that weight is really up front. We will see, it may not be too bad.

[jac04]

Make sure to keep us up-to-date with pictures.
It's nice to know there is someone else out there having as much fun as I am.:thumb-up:

[brucejohn]

During the course of trolling threads here (a great way to learn what I don't know) someone mentioned that a Series III 4 speed wouldn't fit in a Series IIa chassis because the crossmember under the bell housing conflicts with the newer clutch slave cylinder. Ought oh, I am replacing my rotten cancerous Series III chassis with a solid IIa! It turns out to be true. I had to 'modify' my newly powdercoated Series IIa chassis a bit today as I reinstalled the engine and transmission.

Here are a few pictures to illustrate:
Series III crossmember below bell housing just over where the slave cylinder would be, looking aft.
http://brucejohn.typepad.com/photos/land_rover/s3underbellhousecross.jpg
and Series IIa crossmember below bell housing (though this is from the opposite side looking forward because I forgot to take a 'before' photo)
http://brucejohn.typepad.com/photos/land_rover/s2abeforecutout.jpg
The clutch slave cylinder would not clear this triangular support.

Here is the modified crossmember
http://brucejohn.typepad.com/photos/land_rover/s2aaftercutoutcross.jpg

and looking aft after installing the engine and transmission

http://brucejohn.typepad.com/photos/land_rover/slavecylinderafore.jpg

I can not say enough for all the knowledge and help available here. Thanks to everyone, there is no way I would be getting through all this without your help.

...bj

[brucejohn]

Here is a shot after reinstalling the engine and transmission. Unlike many of you here that I admire greatly I do not have the time or anywhere near enough patience to restore my 109 now. The engine and transmission will have to be slowly gone through like most of us do I suppose.
http://brucejohn.typepad.com/photos/land_rover/drivetrainbackin.jpg
I am hoping to nicely refurbish the axles, brakes and chassis and reinstall all the body so as to get back on the road. I miss my ride and since I bought the IIA as parts and pieces I have a multitude of duplicates or almost duplicates. Perhaps I will restore the IIa body whilst I drive the III? I love the look of the IIa forward ends. Or maybe rebuild the older 3 bearing engine as a spare? What you all think?

Who knows I am just having a ball working on my landy and if I could drive it too I'd be a very happy man. Is that why so many of you have two landys?

[brucejohn]

Make sure to keep us up-to-date with pictures.
It's nice to know there is someone else out there having as much fun as I am.:thumb-up:

I am having a lot of fun, if I had two of these one would be for working on, the other for driving. Maybe some day.

[LaneRover]

Is that why so many of you have two landys?

Only 2?

[brucejohn]

Only 2?

No, not only two LaneRover. No reason to limit ourselves!

Here are some shots of the bulkhead on the way into the garage. Remembering I am doing a refurbishment and not a restoration AND I really want to be driving again by turkey day what do I do now?

bulkhead from the
cabin
http://brucejohn.typepad.com/.a/6a00d83455a10869e20120a67ccaba970c-pi
engine compartment LH
http://brucejohn.typepad.com/.a/6a00d83455a10869e20120a67ccabe970c-pi
engine compartment LH
http://brucejohn.typepad.com/.a/6a00d83455a10869e20120a67ccab1970c-pi

close up of RH (drivers) footbox from engine compartment
http://brucejohn.typepad.com/.a/6a00d83455a10869e20120a67ccab5970c-pi
close up of RH (drivers) mount from cabin
http://brucejohn.typepad.com/.a/6a00d83455a10869e20120a67ccad1970c-pi
close up of LH (passengers) mount from cabin/door
http://brucejohn.typepad.com/.a/6a00d83455a10869e20120a67ccacb970c-pi
close up of LH (passengers) mount and footbox from engine compartment
http://brucejohn.typepad.com/.a/6a00d83455a10869e20120a67ccac3970c-pi

What would you do to just refurbish her and get her on the road for let's say 3-5 years before a true restoration could be commenced.

[greenmeanie]

The first thing I would do is hit all that rust with a wire wheel on a grinder and get all the flaky loose stuff off so you have a better understanding of where the good metal starts.

If you can weld the repair is quite manageable.

For the footwells out hosts sell replacement panels. I never figured out why they galvanized a footwell panel that gets welded in place though. Watch out for the galvy flue.

Have a good look at that mounting foot and see if you can get away with plating it.

Paint it with your favourite rust proofing coatings and you're done until you get that irresistable urge to galvanize everything.

Ike has a great description here:
Linky (http://pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/reference/howto/bulkheadrepair/index.htm)

[brucejohn]

Thanks for the thoughts and link. Wow Ike has it figured out.

I have poked and hammered on both feet a bit and they appear solid. I am hoping cleaning them up, plating and painting will do until I 'get that irresistable urge'. ;)

[jac04]

Here is what I would do:
Start tearing everything apart and get completely crazy & off-track from the original plan. When people ask about the 'refurbishment', immediately turn defensive and go into denial mode about the actual restoration taking place. Oh wait, that's what I would do, but maybe you shouldn't do the same.:)

But, seriously, here is my suggestion:
1) Get rid of all the loose rust you can via wire wheel or 3M rust removal disc (or a sandblaster if you have one).
2) Treat rusty metal with Eastwood Rust Convereter and then coat with Rust Encapsulator. Buy the Encapsulator by the quart and brush it on thick.
3) Buy some sheet metal (a thickness that you can work with) and make patch panels that are bigger than your rusted-out areas so they can be riveted in place. Drill all your rivet holes, but don't install the panels quite yet.
4) When installing the patch panels, I would "bed them in" with a good epoxy or automotive seam sealer. Then rivet them in place with closed-end rivets.
5) When the epoxy or seam sealer is dry, clean everything & coat everything with a few coats of Rust Encapsulator, then a few coats of brush-on Rust-Oleum for good measure.
6) Spray rubberized undercoating on the areas prone to impact.

It sounds like more work than it really is. It may not be the prettiest repair, but it can last a very long time if executed properly. Chemicals are your friend.

[brucejohn]

Hmmm.... door number 1: denial, defensive, detour or door number 2? I'll take door number 2 Bob. :)

Thanks, for the suggestion Jac04, that actually sounds really good too. One of the great things here, lots of good suggestions. I have been wondering do you own stock in Eastwood? I ordered a gallon of the converter, though I did not order the encapsulator. I got the impression it wasn't much different than Rustoleum. Did I make a mistake?

Actually, after running the angle grinder a little today I am leaning toward a modified Ike, GreenMeanie, Jac04 approach.

Thanks for the help, I need all I can get.

[brucejohn]

Well, repairing the foot wells has been interesting and enlightening.

I decided to use a modified greenmeanie/jac04 approach. Using patches and welding. This being my first welding project I will be withholding the photos. As I am a noob, I cut too little out of the old steel creating the need for many smaller patches to 'repair' the metal running away from my welding. On the flip side I know exactly what not to do next time.

I am getting my money out of the 4-1/2" angle grinder I bought though ;)

Let's just say though ugly I am confident that the patches will more than last until I am ready to rebuild bulkhead in 3-5 years and the floor mats made from stall mats will be look great in comparison for the time being.