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View Full Version : Tub Removal - What to Expect?



oestlarsen
10-15-2009, 05:33 PM
Folks -
The time has come to plan for the winter project. My old neighbor's son is an avid welder and for my round birthday, he gave me a certificate to have him work on whatever I needed in his heated barn/shop.

I have 2 known (likely more unknown) issues:
1. Bulkhead outriggers are shot
2. Driver side footwell rotted through

I was going to remove tub, clean and inspect my frame up to bulkhead - replace oil lines, prime, and rewire rear harness. I was then going to have my resource weld 2 new outriggers on, and the footwell piece.

Anything nasty I need to prepare for when removing tub? I want to be able to return from journey...not have a tub lying around my basement for 2 years.

Oh - 67 Ser iia 88.

Thanks!!
Carl

PS - if the truck was "good looking" I would consider the new frame option, but it is not, and truly a beater to some extent which needs to be kept alive. We love her regardless.

Bertha
10-15-2009, 05:53 PM
I just switched out the rear on my 109 2 door with full length hardtop and roof rack 2 days ago and it took me 8 hours straight with no stopping. My truck had all stainless steel hardware and the wiring was in excellent shape. I left the seatbase in place, however I had to loosen most of the hardware to get the new/replacement tub to fit properly. I had no interior bits to deal with. Needless to say it was a bigger project than expected. Good luck and budget a few days to get the amount of work done you are planning. I would also recommend picking up some stainless steel hardware for the re-assembly process.

greenmeanie
10-15-2009, 06:07 PM
Things to look at on a tub are:
- The bottom rear edge where the five tabs on the rear cross member attach as it is a prime area for galvanic corrosion.
- The tub supports that were once probably galvanized but may now be just so much rust.
- The tub front mounts which, again, can get attacked by galvanic corrosion.

Generally anywhere where steel may have met aluminium should be treated.

pisten-bully
10-16-2009, 09:12 AM
As long as you've got much of the frame stripped like that, invest in some new rear brake lines and a wiring harness, maybe exhaust hangers, too. Much simpler to do it from the top!

crankin
10-16-2009, 11:27 AM
Some of the things that I ran into was the corrosion with the supports on the underside of the tub...

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dcAzqvv_A6U/SotpqkhUaCI/AAAAAAAAAb0/F1ft7I2MNjQ/s640/DSC03982.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcAzqvv_A6U/SotqCZxsqJI/AAAAAAAAAc4/wq_23AsruuA/s640/DSC03998.JPG

And like Greenmeanie the five tabs on the frame...
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcAzqvv_A6U/SotpZ6DeQ_I/AAAAAAAAAbA/Ome1k986M38/s512/DSC03970.JPG

I will add...that if the corrosion is that bad, you might find that your seat box that bolts to the front part of the tub (as well as the front tub area) is in bad shape, too.

Also, another project idea...since you are going to have the whole tub off...paint the axle.

jac04
10-16-2009, 11:37 AM
The tub supports are reasonably priced and available from our hosts. Don't forget the rubber pads that go between the supports and the chassis.

slorocco
10-16-2009, 02:37 PM
buy some new hardward and have it on hand. I've had to cut quite a few bolts off on previous disassembly projects. Douse every thing liberally with your favorite penetrating oil for about a week before you start.

oestlarsen
10-16-2009, 06:39 PM
Great advice, and pictures too!!! Thanks very much.

Notes:
1. Paint
2. Corrosion
3. Everything that's easy to get to (wiring, brake lines etc.)
4. Soak everything (starting now)
Crankin - how will you address those holes and corroded areas? Sand & Patch?


Carl

crankin
10-16-2009, 10:33 PM
Yep. Already addressed it...
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dcAzqvv_A6U/SotqR_z1KUI/AAAAAAAAAds/yDcVtIyplvM/s800/DSC04043.JPG

Underside - Line-x
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcAzqvv_A6U/SotqNEg1gCI/AAAAAAAAAdc/4UXs5-gnrtc/s800/DSC04039.JPG

Its painted now...