Painting the bottom of the Rover with used motor oil....

[greasyhandsagain]

I keep wanting to do this. What a nasty messy thing it would be but *I keep wanting to do this*

[brucejohn]

Isn't the other way to say that: driving my rover?

[gudjeon]

I'm going to try this recipe this year:

http://www.geocities.com/wallaces_21/waxoyl.htmll

Oil on the underside keeps water/salt out all right enough. It likes to spatter up the back of the tail/hatch and/or door. Don't tell anyone from fisheries you do this before crossing any creeks now.:D

[LaneRover]

I keep wanting to do this. What a nasty messy thing it would be but *I keep wanting to do this*

People have done that for years on all sorts of vehicles. Sometimes on axles and springs to keep them rust free. The problem with Rovers is that it is hard to get it all over where you need it the most which is inside the chassis.

Brent

[BackInA88]

Get a $20 pump up sprayer from the garden section of Wally World.
Works great to refill the trans on a DII as well.:thumb-up:

Steve

[Mercedesrover]

Used oil will make a smelly, dirty mess.

Make a 3:1 mixture of NEW 10w/30 motor oil and kerosene and apply it out of a potato sprayer or a pump spray bottle. I keep a spray bottle of this around all the time and use it on my tractors and implements as well. Works like a charm.

[amcordo]

:D Don't forget to put out your cigarette before putting it on.

[graniterover]

Used oil will make a smelly, dirty mess.



So you're saying we won't notice it, right?

[Mercedesrover]

So you're saying we won't notice it, right?

What? Your trucks leak oil? :)

[thixon]

Mine doesnt leak. Oh wait, its not currently running.

[kevkon]

Besides the mess involved, used motor oil can contain a lot of elements that are actually corrosive. Also, the very nature of oil makes it less than ideal to stay on the very surfaces you want to protect most ( that's why Waxoyl was invented). There are too many better alternatives for protection out there and many are not very expensive.

[TSR53]

I would suggest not to fritz around and waste your valuable time and money crafting up a solution. Waxoyl your Land Rover and be done with it.

I Waxoyl'd my 2006 MINI Cooper S before last winter, best thing I could have ever done. Full story here >>

http://www.tsrennsport.com/weblog/?page_id=404
http://www.tsrennsport.com/weblog/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/DSCF8887-waxoyl-540.jpg

[pisten-bully]

Bar and chain oil is what lots of oil undercoaters use in Vermont. Some chain oil formulas contain paraffin, I know one guy who heats it first to get some flow.

It will drip until it "sets".

[Mercedesrover]

I would suggest not to fritz around and waste your valuable time and money crafting up a solution. Waxoyl your Land Rover and be done with it.

With all due-respect, Waxoyl is great for new, clean, un-rusted surfaces and offers good protection in that capacity. It acts like any quality wax-based rustproofing/undercoating at sealing over your nice new and clean panels and keeping the water and such out. But for old, dirty, rusty things all it does is cover things up. People tend to think it's the end all-be all because you spray it on and everything is nice and black and shiny. Meanwhile things are continuing to corrode and rust underneath. A good coat of oil sprayed on twice a year will seep into all the seams and cracks, keep the water off of everything and slow down the rust and corrosion. It won't make it go away, but it will keep it from getting worse. I have farm implements that stay out in the weather year-round that I've done this to, and they look as good now as they did 10 years ago.

It's not that I think Waxoyl is a bad product...I actually think it's pretty good. But I do think that people are using it in the wrong application and will be very disappointed in a few years when it peels off along with all the rust underneath it.

[Bostonian1976]

I have the answer.

Get a distributor that doesn't quite fit right, then drive at highway speeds.

Nicely coats the underside with fresh oil

Truth be told, I really think this has kept my frame and components in rust-free shape.


Try the Waxoyl - I've heard great things on it

[greenmeanie]

Rust - what's that?

[greasyhandsagain]

I think where I really want to get the oil is under the tub, and on the chassis. Really dry back there, I guess Im in the minority since my motor isnt a "leaker". Sort of going with the idea or using new oil, with a little kero. The sprayer sounds like a good idea also.

Wife says......NOT out front or in MY driveway!!!

[LaneRover]

Rust - what's that?

Its what you get after driving across some salt flats that weren't as dry as you thought.:D

[kevkon]

If you have serious rust present coating it with oil is not the answer. Go with the Por 15 treatment. If you don't have a serious rust issue then use a product designed to afford the proper long term protection. I think Waxoyl is a great protection, I just don't happen to like it. There are a multitude of other inhibitors and protectors available that can be applied without any special equipment. Why screw around with motor oil? It's messy and not designed for that purpose. What's the cost of replacing the frame and parts compared to spending less than $100 on the proper treatment?

[Mercedesrover]

Go with the Por 15 treatment.

Why screw around with motor oil?

Sem Rust-Shield is far and away superior to POR-15.

'Cause oil works.

[kevkon]

Sem Rust-Shield is far and away superior to POR-15.

'Cause oil works.

I'm curious, what problems have you experienced with Por15?
Sure oil works, so do a lot of other coatings. But it's far from an ideal solution, so why use it when there's better options?

[Jim-ME]

Gemplers has a rust converter which I have used with what I feel were good results on a friend's Jeep. We used both the Wayoyl guns to apply it both inside and outside the frame after power washing on pounding off the flaking rust with hammers. We actually used a shop vac to suck the loose rust out of the inside of the frame. After letting the converter work for the recommended time which IIRC was 48 hrs we used clear Waxoyl on the inside of the frame and the hard wax on the outside. It still looked good a couple of years later when the Jeep was sold. This is the route I plan to go with my Rover because even the galvanization on my frame is getting eaten off by the crap they spread on the roads up here in the winter. It is far easier for me to apply more rust converter followed by the appropriate Waxoyl than to repaint or regalvanize. On my foot boxes, seat box, floor boards transmission tunnel and th center section of the bulkhead I plan to remove the rust on the steel bits by sand or media blasting, prime it and Line-x it.
Jim

[ScottT]

They don't leak, they automatically change their oil. Making maintenance easier for the owner.


What? Your trucks leak oil? :)

[gudjeon]

Oil and diesel must work well because I have never seen a logging contractors pick up truck bed rust out.:thumb-up:

[kevkon]

Maybe the Waxoyl should go in the motor and the motor oil on the chassis. :D
What about the gear lube?

[adkrover]

What about blacktop sealant? Just trip the truck on it's side and get a big paint brush.

[greasyhandsagain]

My wife, when I met her...drove a rather clapped out 1960 studebaker lark, with a flathead 6. It was a dual purpose machine. An oil processor, it also always had clean fresh oil since its other function was to fog for mosquitoes. She carried (no lie) a five gallon jug of recycled oil in the trunk, and would just pour some out into a coffee can each day, and dump it into the motor.

soon after I met her, I managed to source a nice running engine out of a rust out which we put in in one afternoon.

[adkrover]

When I was younger and living another life, I drove a bus that had a hose and funnel inside the cab so you didn't have to pull over to pour the oil in. We purchased cases of heavy weight fleet oil from truck stops and watched the odometer. Every 50 miles or so, in went another quart.