PDA

View Full Version : Replacing the Clutch....my first attempt in progress



greasyhandsagain
11-05-2009, 07:20 PM
The progression of a wearing clutch was slowly building and not getting better by itself...so I had to to the 'Big Job' and tonight its raining, the rover is disembowled, and parts are on the way. Took a pic during the "remove the caked up dirt and grease" stage of the cleanup.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg204/ambro51/rovinsidetrans.jpghttp://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg204/ambro51/003-2.jpg

Didnt get a picture yet but she cleaned up very nice, amazing that aluminum is like new under all that grease!!!

So Now.....Ive got to rig up a ratcheting strap to pull up the weight, and use my trolly jack and some plywood and gradually get this thing loose, and slid back. Then, hopefully, the new clutch and cover will be a quick bolt on, and I can get her all buttoned back up again.....maybe by sundown tomorrow.

Ive never done this before, but so far so good... The previous owner had devious nut/bolt fasteners with long bolts holding down all the floor panels, I didnt have any wd40 on hand (gasp) and finally did manage to get them all off, with 2 shearing, 1 being drilled out, and the other having the nut sawed off. The rest succumbed to wrenches.

Of course all this brings other areas of the Rover into view that Ive not seen before and what makes a lovely patina on the outside...through careful neglect and wear, dosent make for a pretty scene underneath. There are areas of rust on the chassis that need some welding. Overall, though, better than a lot of stuff that old thats out there.

On well, tomorrow is another day and hopefully this will all work out OK. Any advice on doing the job from this point onward is most eagerly solicited. Greasy

Nium
11-05-2009, 07:56 PM
It would be a good idea to replace the rear main seal on the engine while in there. The primary pinion bush, in the center of the flywheel, should be replaced too; as well as submerging the bush in motor oil for a day before fitting. Replace the throw out bearing. Personally I'd have the flywheel surface turned at a machine shop (sometimes called skimmed). An engine hoist is very helpful in removing the tranny from above. Are you upgrading to a 9.5 pressure plate and clutch disk?

amcordo
11-06-2009, 10:01 AM
How do you even get the transmission out from this point? If you unbolt it from the transfer case and the clutch does it just slide upwards? Or do you have to disconnect the rear drive shaft so you can pull the transfer case back to seperate the transmission from the clutch?

LC_rover
11-06-2009, 10:44 AM
Or do you have to disconnect the rear drive shaft so you can pull the transfer case back to seperate the transmission from the clutch?


This would be my guess. You have to unmate it from the engine shaft before you can lift it.

greasyhandsagain
11-06-2009, 03:11 PM
Made more progress today, but....sort of stumped on the rear mounting brackets. Is that a big hulking bolt that goes up through the bottom of the chassis, and through the rubber donut, and then to a nut which holds it all together? It looks like that is the case, though Ive not really worked on getting these bolts out...they didnt want to seem to move when I turned off the nuts.

Advice on that sought.... does this bolt come all the way out?
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg204/ambro51/006-7.jpghttp://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg204/ambro51/007-1.jpg

A lot cleaner looking!

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg204/ambro51/004-1.jpg

gudjeon
11-06-2009, 03:12 PM
What I did for removing these brute out was to get as far as you have shown ^^^^. I would then remove the park brake ass'y. Remove front and rear driveshafts. Don't forget the speedo cable as well.

Once unbolted from the bellhousing and mounts, I use a chain and long piece of strong pipe or a post and chain/rope it up short so the post resides about centred and rope positioned at the butt end of the tranny. Two people to lift on each side and one guy to slide and guide the ass'y out the big hole in the floor.

It will fit coming out of there and I have even done this with the hardtop on but with doors removed.:thumb-up:

Just seen your updated pics. What you have is the older mount system. It is essentially a sandwich of rubbers and washers like you found. You can "update to newer mounts if you like. There is mounting ears on the tranny crossmember under your old mount ass'y. You would have to get the transmission mount adapters that do onto these plus the heavy mounting flanges that are on the transfer case. In doing this, you can use the regular and plentiful mounts that are the same ones used to mount the engine. I did this when I rebuilt my '57. Just an option for the future if you want.

greasyhandsagain
11-06-2009, 03:52 PM
So now it looks like with that older style mount system that IS a big rusted in thru bolt which needs to come out. I teLly don't want to update or change anything

gudjeon
11-06-2009, 04:09 PM
That's the great thing with these old things, you can build or rebuild to suit whatever you want:thumb-up:.

greasyhandsagain
11-07-2009, 07:21 PM
Finally got those nasty big old transmission mount bolts out. This is the Series 1 design...and the bolts were totally corroded inside this steel sleeve. One came out by hammer, the other by drill and hammer. The mounts will need to be dealt with, On the series 1 club forum one fellow mentions mid 30's Ford mounts as substitutes for the original series 1 mount rubbers, so they came cheap on ebay lets see what I can do with those.

Meanwhile, after the mount bolts came out, it was time to pull the gearbox. I used a 5 ft. lot 2X6, one end resting out the vent and the other, with a hole bored in it, positioned on the rear bulkhead, on top of that big screw thingy. So, this was a nice solid base. The trolly jack on top, with a ratched strap around and back up over the top of the jack. So with a little lift, and a little push, the box came back just fine. Rested on a concrete block with a bit of 2X6 on top, and on the crossmember, with the jack still taking the weight.

Thought I was on a cruise here....but alas, however put the last clutch in tightened the bots far more than the 25 ft. lbs suggested....and I was unable to get them off with any of the sockets and tools I have here.

Yup, its 5/16 BSF...so it was off to ebay to order sockets. And, while I was there...a small industrial looking air impact.

Also, now a new demon has shown itself, the handbrake is saturated in black goo....so that will need work. A bit puzzled with the OTHER problem that is now going to be looked into, in that the self locking bolts that hold the front of the propshaft on....failed recently when I was doing the U joint on the rear of the shaft...The bolts unscrewed about half way, and then the rear bolt ends started spinning, so the bolts couldnt be tightened or loosened at all. Only two bolts were really holding (and yes I was out trail riding like this). Finally able now with good access to get the handbreak drum off and get a wrench behind them and get the shaft off for good and deal with this problem. It seems like the bolts have one wide shoulder,

So the fun continues in a few days when the tools and seals get here.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg204/ambro51/006-8.jpg

Nium
11-07-2009, 07:33 PM
Hope the weight of the tranny on the 2x6 doesn't deform the window vent. :o