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PattyG
11-16-2009, 09:31 PM
I have a 1969 Series II A Rover that my husband always drove. My husband died in March and I am driving in snow. What is the sequence of engaging 4WD ( I forgot). I have ARB air locks switch with a compressor switch and the wheels have no levers to turn/lock. There is a round keyhole? on the wheel. Should I look for a round key to turn/lock the wheels or does the ARB switch with the compressor switch do that? Do I put main gear in neutral then push down on yellow knob then flip the switches? What is the sequence?

LaneRover
11-16-2009, 09:43 PM
I have a 1969 Series II A Rover that my husband always drove. My husband died in March and I am driving in snow. What is the sequence of engaging 4WD ( I forgot). I have ARB air locks switch with a compressor switch and the wheels have no levers to turn/lock. There is a round keyhole? on the wheel. Should I look for a round key to turn/lock the wheels or does the ARB switch with the compressor switch do that? Do I put main gear in neutral then push down on yellow knob then flip the switches? What is the sequence?

Pressing the yellow knob down puts you into 4 wheel drive.

You can press it in while moving but not when the front and rear wheels are rotating at different speeds. Only do it while driving straight and no wheel slippage. Or you can do it while stopped too.

To get it out of 4 wheel drive you need to take the red lever and pull it back and then push it forward, do this while stopped.

To get 4 wheel low just pull the red lever all the way back.

PattyG
11-16-2009, 09:59 PM
Thank you, but what do I do to lock the wheels? Do I flip the ARB and compressor switches before/after I press the yellow knob? And do I leave them on when I'm in 4WD?
He added the ARB system recently and I never got the chance to use it.

Nium
11-16-2009, 10:07 PM
The ARB air locker is to lock the differential out so that both the left and right side wheels spin at the same rate regardless if one slips in mud or something like that. It is not necessary for 4wd drive and is usually only used when off-roading for extra grip.

What did you mean by...


There is a round keyhole? on the wheel

are you refering to the steering wheel?

PattyG
11-16-2009, 10:39 PM
There are 4 regular (normal looking lug nuts) and the fifth lug nut has a round indentation (1/2 inch diameter) with grooves. The wheel is a five spoke arrangement with the Land Rover symbol in the middle. He use to get out of the rig to lock the wheels before going into 4WD. I was wondering if this round indentation in the lug nut had something to do with locking the wheels for 4WD. It sounds like I don't have to worry about the ARB/Compressor or fiddling with the wheels if I'm just in regular 4WD. Correct?

badvibes
11-16-2009, 11:28 PM
There are 4 regular (normal looking lug nuts) and the fifth lug nut has a round indentation (1/2 inch diameter) with grooves. The wheel is a five spoke arrangement with the Land Rover symbol in the middle.

This sounds like a security type lug nut. It keeps someone from stealing your wheels. The different lug nut has a "key" which fits the pattern you see on one side and has a "hex" pattern on the other that a lug wrench fits. You need the key to remove the lug nut to change the tire if you were to have a flat. It has nothing to do with "locking" the wheels for 4 wheel drive.

The front wheels, if they have free wheeling hubs, will have a dial or knob that you turn to engage or lock the wheels. Do you see the words "lock" or "free" anywhere on the front wheel where the axle or hubs are? Are you able to take a picture and post it to show what your truck has? Lots of people here are willing to help if we can figure out what you're dealing with.


EDIT: And yes you're correct, you don't have to use the ARB system just to use 4 wheel drive.

Jeff

SafeAirOne
11-16-2009, 11:33 PM
There are 4 regular (normal looking lug nuts) and the fifth lug nut has a round indentation (1/2 inch diameter) with grooves.

Are you referring to the actual lug nut that holds the wheel rim onto the vehicle? If so, it may be a security lug that prevents people from stealing the rims/tires using an ordinary lug wrench. It looks like a variant of this and requires a special mating socket to remove the nut:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/product/images/large/G_26530G_CL_1.jpg

He use to get out of the rig to lock the wheels before going into 4WD.

If that is the case, I suspect that you may have locking hubs and what you refer to are not the lug nuts that hold the tires/wheels on the truck, but rather the bolts that hold the smaller axle cap on the hub, located in the center of the wheel. There were many different versions of these and I think there was a variety that required the driver to turn what looked like a hex-headed bit to engage and disengage them. I am, admittedly, not familiar with the different styles of locking hubs, other than the 2 common ones.

EDIT--I see Jeff is a fast typer...

badvibes
11-16-2009, 11:41 PM
EDIT--I see Jeff is a fast typer...

2 blazing fast fingers.....

Nium
11-16-2009, 11:44 PM
You may have free wheel hubs on the front axle. If so you will need to set them to the "Lock" position before engaging 4wd. Here's a link to some common ones that were fit to Land Rovers...

http://www.pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/reference/lib/fwh/fwh.html

If you could post a picture of the front wheels, or see if the centers match any on that web site, then would be able to tell you for sure if they are or not free wheel hubs and how to set them to the locked position if they are free wheel hubs.

scott
11-16-2009, 11:51 PM
patty

if you could post a pic of your front hubs we could tell if you have free wheeling hubs that need to be locked. or maybe others could post pics of hub examples and explain 'em
2312

mine are like these and you just turn in the direction of the 2 for freewheeling in the direction of the 4 to lock 'em in

SafeAirOne
11-16-2009, 11:55 PM
Ahh... This is the locking hub I was thinking of--The one that required a wrench to operate. It's an MAP/Fairey locking hub:

http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/attachments/f7/16554d1199113711-locking-hubs-series-iii-maphubs.jpg

Are these what you are referring to?

Other varieties of locking hubs, which must be engaged before using 4 wheel drive are:

Dualmatic locking hubs:
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/attachments/f7/16553d1199113711-locking-hubs-series-iii-dualmatic.jpg

Warn Hubs:
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/attachments/f7/16552d1199113711-locking-hubs-series-iii-warnhubs.jpg

Selectro Locking Hubs:
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/attachments/f7/16551d1199113711-locking-hubs-series-iii-selectro.jpg

And Fairey hubs:
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/attachments/f7/16550d1199113711-locking-hubs-series-iii-faireyhubs.jpg

Do any of these look like what you are refrring to?

EDIT: Again, fast typing, Scott this time...

scott
11-17-2009, 12:02 AM
[/QUOTE]...EDIT: Again, fast typing, Scott this time...[/QUOTE]

not as fast as nium

SafeAirOne
11-17-2009, 12:06 AM
not as fast as nium

Yeah..that post got past me. I see I stole images from somebody who stole them from Ike's site.

PattyG
11-17-2009, 12:56 AM
I googled wheels and found that the indentation on the lug nut is for security. We did have the dual-matic type of wheels where he would have to disengage the levers and rotate 90 degrees. He must have replaced those with this ARB air locker system? Does that sound right to you? I looked at the link below and my wheels don't match any of those examples. I took pictures and will post them as soon as I figure out how to do so.

badvibes
11-17-2009, 02:54 AM
I googled wheels and found that the indentation on the lug nut is for security. We did have the dual-matic type of wheels where he would have to disengage the levers and rotate 90 degrees. He must have replaced those with this ARB air locker system? No. The ARB functions inside the differential on the axle. The ARB "locks" the axle shafts together so that basically both wheels on that axle receive power the same. The most common type of differential is referred to as an "open" diff. This type of diff is the most friendly, it works well on pavement where one wheel needs to spin faster than the other when driving a curve, like turning a corner. The outside wheel needs to cover a longer radius and needs to spin faster than the inside tire. An open diff allows this to happen. When an axle is locked at the differential, like when an ARB is engaged, both tires get the same power and spin at the same rate basically. Off pavement this ensures that both tires get power even when one tire may not be in contact with the ground, like a tire may be lifted when negotiating rough terrain. This keeps you moving hopefully in rough terrain. This is how things work when power is applied to the axle when it is locked. It's a little different if power is not being applied. But this may give you an idea what the ARB does.

Does that sound right to you? I looked at the link below and my wheels don't match any of those examples. You may not have free wheeling hubs. Your husband may have changed them at some time. Maybe when he added the ARB, but that would have been an option not a requirement. Some people prefer free wheeling hubs and some prefer "drive flanges" the non free wheeling type. Both have advantages and disadvantages, it's really a matter of personal preference and your particular application/use. Dualmatic hubs are probably the least popular hubs, I have them on my truck. The little levers are a pain to use and get broken easily off road. Your husband may have changed them out to not have to deal with their inconvenience.

I took pictures and will post them as soon as I figure out how to do so. That would give us a better chance to figure out exactly what you have. As for posting pics an easy way is to download the pic at TinyPic.com and then use the "insert image" button on the tool bar (above) when you post. Even I can do it.

Jeff

badvibes
11-17-2009, 03:02 AM
Does the center of your wheel look sort of like this?

http://i36.tinypic.com/2rpfpmx.jpg

This is one style of drive flange.

KevinNY
11-17-2009, 08:28 AM
Patty,

There are a lot of really good people on this board who will help you out as you have seen so far. If you let us know where you are located perhaps someone could meet up up with you and give you a rundown of how your Series is set up and how to properly use it's features?

For the time being, leave the ARB compressor and Air Locker switches alone. Locked differentials will create VERY adverse handling on a snow covered road and should only be used off road or if you get stuck and them immediately disengaged once you are free.

KB

BackInA88
11-17-2009, 11:12 AM
Where do you live maybe someone here lives in your area and can give you a class?


Steve

PattyG
11-17-2009, 07:57 PM
I live in a somewhat remote area in Alaska. No one here has a Rover or has experience with a Rover. My husband added many new options to our Series II A and the modification to the 4WD is confusing me. I have been driving the Rover one week and then driving the pick-up the next - I really don't want the Rover to sit all winter in the garage. I drive to work in the dark and return home in the dark, but Wed is my day off, so I will get some photos in the daylight. Here is the photo of my wheel. I don't think I lock this. I think it is a security lock. So how do I lock my wheels to put her in 4WD? http://i47.tinypic.com/2rogvts.jpg

PattyG
11-17-2009, 08:06 PM
These are the ARB air lock and compressor switches I am not touching. http://i50.tinypic.com/2m0o0k.jpg

Tim Smith
11-17-2009, 08:23 PM
Patty,
The lock on your wheel is just for security. No need to worry about that unless you need to change out the tire. Do yourself a favor anyway and find the matching lock and then make sure it is in the truck somewhere safe.

The switches you've showen are classic ARB locker switches. No need to touch them unless you are very stuck. In which case, you will turn the compressor on first (switch on the left) and then select the locker (switch on the right). Once you are done, you can turn them off any way you like.

All that is going on there, is that you are turning a compressor on to generate air pressure, and then you are using that preasure to activate the locker. I'm assuming the locker is on the rear but not knowing how your truck is set up, it could be on the front differential.

Those lockers are designed to lock the right wheel and the left wheel on either axle it is set up on, at the same speed through any terrain. They should be only used when you are in trouble or when you know you are getting into trouble. As Kevin-NY noted above, driving with them engaged for no reason can cause all kinds of trouble so please don't do it.

Now as for AK. I know there is a member from Alaska but I forgot his name. I'm sure he lives just down the road from you and can show you everything you need to know about 4x4 in a rover. If only we could find him but he's probably off sprucing up another truck for sale.

badvibes
11-17-2009, 09:14 PM
Your husband, or someone, made some pretty big changes to your Series Rover. From the picture you linked to you have LR alloy wheels. The picture I posted is of a steel wheel, these are what all Series 2 Rovers came with originally. To change to the alloy wheels your husband probably changed out the entire axle assemblies to more modern axles. Did he ever mention using parts from a Discovery or a Defender? On an unrelated note he may even have changed from leaf springs to coils when doing this.

As already mentioned this leads me to believe that to engage 4 wheel drive all you need to do is push down on the shift lever with the yellow knob. This engages the 4 wheel drive function in the transfer case. I believe that you do not need to "lock" the hubs as they have drive flanges, not visible under the alloy wheels you have. The wheels are always engaged to the axle shaft in your axle assemblies, they have no free wheeling hub to lock or unlock.

So by pushing down on the yellow knob you have conventional 4 wheel drive. An easy way to verify this is get someone to watch your wheels from outside the truck, engage the transfer case, and while on a loose surface like dirt or snow, try to spin your tires. If the observer sees the wheels spinning under power you have 4 wheel drive. You can also tell by feel, when in 4 wheel drive the truck should feel more difficult to steer into a turn. The wheels under power want to go/drive straight and make turning feel more difficult.

The ARB switches are labeled for you rear axle. The ARB is in the differenttial on the axle, the center section, 3rd member, the pumpkin, it's called several different names. It uses air pressure to turn on and off. By turning on the ARB compressor you provide the needed pressure to actuate the locking differetial function of the ARB. Flipping the 2nd switch does this. It should be instant on. When this is engaged the rear axle's tires spins at the same speed whether going straight or when going thru a turn. This is good for ensuring better traction on dirt, mud, rock. Operation in snow and ice may be better with the ARB sometimes and may be worse sometimes. Sometimes in very icy conditions having tires spinning at the same speed can make driving more difficult due to sideways slipping. I don't have an ARB system myself, I haven't ever driven one in snow and ice or anywhere. This is the opinion others have shared. A lot depends on conditions, and driver preference. Maybe someone with experience with ARBs can share direct experience.

One strategy for using your ARB is to 1st use regular 4 wheel drive, if that provides enough traction to get thru whatever conditions you're encountering then great. If not then engage the ARB system for the additional traction it may provide and if that gets you thru whatever conditions you're having trouble with then, once again, great. For use of the ARB in icy conditions someone who has actual experience with ARBs in a short wheel base vehicle in those conditions needs to chime in.

It seems like you have a pretty modified Series, most of us here get really curious about what others do/did to their trucks, so as always pictures are encouraged. Drive safe.

Jeff

kevkon
11-17-2009, 09:14 PM
Patti, do you know what modifications your husband did to the Rover? I see disc brakes and I'm wondering if your truck has some other extensive drivetrain/ transmission modifications besides the air locker.

Tim Smith
11-17-2009, 09:52 PM
I used to have the ARB locking axles and found them to be trouble unless I was in trouble.

Basically, unless you are going perfectly straight ahead, you need all wheels to spin a little different speed than the others. The ARB setup is fantastic at getting you out of a situation but equally as fantastic at getting you into one unnecessarily, unless you know what you are doing. I only locked my ARB axles a handful of times and that was when I was seriously in trouble. Problem for me was that they were not installed correctly and one day the ring gear came spinning loose. If not for that, I'd probably still have them.

I think Patty is still confused by 4X4 and ARB and blah blah blah different rover setups. Basically when you push the yellow knob down, you have engaged the front axle and thus four wheel drive (unless there is a locking hub which Patty's picture doesn't support). On series rovers there is no center differential so the front drive shaft will spin the same as the rear. No matter what they will spin the same speed.

Where lockers come in, you are only talking about the front axle or the rear. Lockers are usually first installed in the rear because of that whole 'spinning tires when I shouldn't but I like to steer and it's ruining my party' kind of thing. Of course, Patty's husband could have put a detroit (or other) in the rear and then put the ARB in the front but we have no idea. Even though it says rear locker on the switch doesn't preclude the fact that it could be on the front.

PattyG
11-17-2009, 09:58 PM
Patti, do you know what modifications your husband did to the Rover? I see disc brakes and I'm wondering if your truck has some other extensive drivetrain/ transmission modifications besides the air locker.

My husband did some major modifications. We bought the Rover in '73 and greatly enhanced her several years ago. I know he put an Old Man Emu suspension system in - but that shouldn't impact the 4 W drive system? I will take pictures tomorrow in the daylight and hopefully one of you experts can tell me if I can just depress the yellow knob and take off in 4WD without bothering to lock the wheels. I really don't want to ruin our Rover - she's a beauty.

badvibes
11-17-2009, 10:02 PM
I know he put an Old Man Emu suspension system in - but that shouldn't impact the 4 W drive system?

You're correct, the OME suspension shouldn't impact the 4WD function.

And by the way I'm no "expert." I'm just a Series owner trying to keep my own truck running too.

Jeff

kevkon
11-17-2009, 10:06 PM
Ok, Patty.
If you still have a yellow knob to depress and a red one to move forward and backward you should be good to go. You don't have manual locking hubs so don't worry about it.

Tim Smith
11-17-2009, 10:07 PM
My husband did some major modifications. We bought the Rover in '73 and greatly enhanced her several years ago. I know he put an Old Man Emu suspension system in - but that shouldn't impact the 4 W drive system? I will take pictures tomorrow in the daylight and hopefully one of you experts can tell me if I can just depress the yellow knob and take off in 4WD without bothering to lock the wheels. I really don't want to ruin our Rover - she's a beauty.
And there is no evidence that your modifications mean locking any hubs. I say push the yellow nob and go.

Does the blue knob go down the rabbit hole? I haven't found it yet.

SafeAirOne
11-17-2009, 10:11 PM
I suspect all the other stuff is well beyond what PattyG needs (or wants) to know. To keep it simple:

Push the yellow spring-loaded knob down for 4 wheel drive. Doing so while coasting at moderate speeds is OK.

When you're done with 4 wheel drive, come to a complete stop and yank the red lever all the way back. The yellow spring-loaded knob will pop back up. Shove the red lever forward to its original position and you're in 2 wheel drive again.

I recommend you don't mess with anything else (for now).

badvibes
11-17-2009, 10:16 PM
Does the blue knob go down the rabbit hole? I haven't found it yet.

I dunno, are you chasing rabbits? Go ask Alice, when she's ten feet tall.....

Apology for taking the thread off track.

Tim Smith
11-17-2009, 10:21 PM
I dunno, are you chasing rabbits? Go ask Alice, when she's ten feet tall.....

Apology for taking the thread off track.
No that was me pulling things off track. :o

PattyG
11-18-2009, 12:31 PM
Okay, I pushed down the yellow knob and put her in first gear and I went nowhere. There must be something I'm not doing right. I took more pictures of the under carriage - maybe these will help you to help me ( I am very appreciative for all your help and suggestions). I do know that he has a IPF decal (I think that is just the additional headlights) and he has a K&V decal that I will research.

http://i47.tinypic.com/28md2si.jpg Rear Under Carriage
http://i46.tinypic.com/11bk87p.jpg Front Under Carriage
http://i45.tinypic.com/dr5gyq.jpg Front Under Carriage
http://i46.tinypic.com/wmbl9k.jpg Side View

PattyG
11-18-2009, 12:39 PM
K&V must be the steering stabilizer kit he put on the Rover - correct? And that shouldn't have anything to do with putting her in 4WD - correct?

stomper
11-18-2009, 12:40 PM
That is a very beautiful Land Rover, and I am sure it was your husband's pride and joy. He obviously spent a lot of time upgrading it to a new galvanized frame, with a coil suspension, and new axles, differential lockers, etc.

Did he do the work himself? If a garage carried it out, I would strongly recommend you go to the garage, so they can explain everything to you, as a vehicle like this one does not soon escape any mechanic's memory, and they will know everything about the vehicle.

When you stated that nothing happens when you depressed the yellow knob, what do you mean? Would it no longer drive? were you able to drive out of the garage, in first, and then you depressed the yellow knob, and then it would no longer go anywhere?

scott
11-18-2009, 01:25 PM
patty

click on members list then on search and you can search for those here that are really there. i searched just using AK and then Alaska in the loacation field and found a few frozen roverites

badvibes
11-18-2009, 01:41 PM
Okay, I pushed down the yellow knob and put her in first gear and I went nowhere. There must be something I'm not doing right.

Ensure that the shift lever with the red knob is all the way forward (high range) or all the way back (low range). It commonly gets knocked into the nuetral position and will cause exactly what you describe.

Tim Smith
11-18-2009, 01:57 PM
Is this a Defender? A very nice one at that. :thumb-up:

If so then my whole message about the front drive shaft and rear drive shaft spinning at the same speed might be wrong. I think the Defenders actually have a center differential but I don't own one so I'm not exactly sure how they are set up underneath. Also, I believe Defenders always in 4x4 and that is why they have a center differential. Maybe the yellow nob is just meant to lock the center differential?

stomper
11-18-2009, 01:59 PM
I was thinking that the red lever was not all the way forward also, that is why I asked if she was able to drive prior to pressing the yellow knob down.
With no locking hubs, there is no other way for it to engage other than by the yellow and red levers.

Actually Patty, I think the whole rig is totalled, you better just sell it to me. I'll dispose of the rig for you. :D

thixon
11-18-2009, 02:01 PM
Hi Patty.

Would be so kind as to get out the camera one last time. Please take some photos of the engine, and a couple of the underside of the truck, as best you can that will show as much of the transmission as possible?

Your husband did A LOT of nice work to this truck. Based on what I see, we should'nt rule out the possibility of an engine/transmission swap. These photos may provide more clues that will allow those on this board to help.

If he did change out the engine/tranny, I doubt he would have left the stock levers in place, but you never know. In addition, he may have adapted the levers to work with the setup he swapped to. Again, I'm theorizing here. It may just have the original rover set up. We'll see.

Good luck,

stomper
11-18-2009, 02:05 PM
Tim, I don't think it is a defender. While I don't own one either, Defenders do not have the red and yellow levers in them. Just a little black lever that locks the center diff.

What I believe Patty's vehicle is is a heavily modified series vehicle. East Coast Rovers does a lot of coil chasis conversions, and also heavy modifications like Patty's appears to have. If a garage didn't do the work, her husband was certainly a very mechanically inclined Rover nut.

Tim Smith
11-18-2009, 02:14 PM
Tim, I don't think it is a defender. While I don't own one either, Defenders do not have the red and yellow levers in them. Just a little black lever that locks the center diff.

What I believe Patty's vehicle is is a heavily modified series vehicle. East Coast Rovers does a lot of coil chasis conversions, and also heavy modifications like Patty's appears to have. If a garage didn't do the work, her husband was certainly a very mechanically inclined Rover nut.
No red and yellow levers in defenders. Got it. Thanks.

Yes I now agree that this truck has had a lot of modifications. It will be interesting to see those other pictures.

PattyG
11-18-2009, 02:19 PM
Thank You for all your help. I went back out to the garage and drove her out and this time pushed the yellow knob down and the red knob ALL THE WAY FORWARD - and this time I was able to drive around the block. But it didn't really feel like it was in 4WD - she went right through small snow berms with no trouble. But it was really smooth like normal driving, not the shudder or hesitation on semi dry pavement like I would expect. When I took her out of 4WD, I pulled the red knob back and there was some slight metal/teeth grinding (I had her in neutral and running) so I turned off the engine and then pulled/pushed the red knob to bring the yellow knob back up. Is this the correct method? I just don't want to tear up something on this rig.

PattyG
11-18-2009, 02:23 PM
I will have to find someone to help hoist the hood up for pictures. Again Thank You all for the help.

SafeAirOne
11-18-2009, 02:57 PM
Patty,

It sounds as if you have done everything right. You shouldn't have to turn the engine off to shift back to 2wd, though. Just keep you foot on the clutch so the gears in the transmission stop spinning. It might take a second to wind down, then yank the red lever back, watch the yellow knob pop up, then shove the red lever all the way forward again.

The shudder when driving on dry pavement is almost unnoticible if you are going in a straight line (for a while, at least). It becomes noticible when the wheels are turned. The farther you turn the wheels, the more pronounced the shudder.

I am confident that you were in 4 wheel drive, and it sounds as if you did quite nicely. In case you haven't figured it out yet, the red lever has 3 positions: all the way forward=2 wheel drive; Halfway back is neutral--Nothing goes anywhere in this position (and the handbrake won't hold the vehicle in this position); And all the way back, which is 4 wheel drive low range--when you need to crawl slowly out of a sticky situation in 4 wheel drive. This aft position also pops the yellow (2 wheel drive high range) knob back up.

Of all the engineering considerations that went into the series land rover design, the greatest must be color coding of the knobs and levers--I can't imagine what this thread would be if the knobs were all black!

bmohan55
11-18-2009, 04:17 PM
The quick responses and concern to this woman's questions are what make this forum great. Of course "some" of you may have an ulterior motive and really have designs on her truck!

brucejohn
11-18-2009, 04:47 PM
What a beautiful truck! I can't wait to see more pictures, wow.

ignotus
11-19-2009, 08:39 PM
Patty,

First I'm sorry to hear about your husband and hope things are better for you now.

I want to say that the advice here is great and thank the other members.

Now just to clarify, As you may have figured out by now the Red Knob lever does indeed have 3 positions like previously stated. Forward is "HIGH" range, middle is "NEUTRAL", and pulled towards the seat base is "LOW" range.

When you push down on the YELLOW knob the front wheel drive is engaged in HIGH range giving you four wheel drive.

When you pull the RED knob back all the way and the YELLOW knob pops up you are automaticly in fourwheel drive LOW range.

Pushing the RED knob forward all the way returns you to two wheel drive.

I suggest you find someone in the local 4x4 community to explain the use and need for the locking ARB system. A simple explanation is that the wheels turn at different rates when unlocked and at the same rate when locked, that is when you are likely to experiance the shudder you mentioned. Loose surfaces like snow, no shudder.

Hope this helps to solidify the previous helpful good advice. Nice looking Rover glad to hear that you like it!

PattyG
11-19-2009, 11:14 PM
Thank you for all your help. I just didn't know why I couldn't get her in 4WD. Of course I found out, thanks to you, that I didn't have the red knob pushed all the way forward. When she wouldn't even move, then I stressed about locking hubs (there are none to lock) and the ARB locker switch. So I had a major fluffy moment there. I am now plowing through banks of snow! There is no one on this island who knows Rovers; so if I have any more trouble or questions, I know I can ask for help here. Thank you.

daveb
11-20-2009, 12:01 AM
sure about that?


Halfway back is neutral--Nothing goes anywhere in this position (and the handbrake won't hold the vehicle in this position);

Terrys
11-20-2009, 05:23 AM
There is no one on this island who knows Rovers; so if I have any more trouble or questions, I know I can ask for help here. Thank you.

Patty, Which Island are you on? AAXD (my son)is on Kodiak, and he has organized a bunch of Landy guys at the CG base. He drives a Series 3 Stage One or an XD Discoery. He is always off to some other spot in the C130, so I know he covers ALOT of territory.

SafeAirOne
11-20-2009, 07:26 AM
sure about that?


Doh! No...The handbrake WILL still hold the vehicle even though the red lever is in the center, "Neutral" position.

At least I was right in saying the vehicle won't go anywhere with the red lever in neutral! :o

amcordo
11-20-2009, 07:26 AM
I'm pretty sure my handbrake holds the car even when in neutral; I park on slight inclines sometimes and always place the low stick in neutral to prevent theft. The car doesn't move though, so the brake must be working.


... Halfway back is neutral--Nothing goes anywhere in this position (and the handbrake won't hold the vehicle in this position)...

PattyG
11-20-2009, 03:28 PM
I live on the other side of the state in Wrangell, an island in SE AK. If your son was stationed at the USCG base in Ketchikan that would only be a 6 hour AMHS Ferry ride away. I asked one man here if he knew how/when/why to engage the airlock system and he said he wasn't familiar with jeeps! That was when I started searching the internet and landed on this forum. My husband drove the Rover everyday; took her hunting; and we took her camping all over Alaska/Canada. He constantly maintained her so he was more knowledgeable than I am. I finally got the port engine on the boat started, so I'm confident that I can tackle any problem with the Rover. Again, thanks for the help and lessons; I'll keep checking this forum and call out for help if I need to.

RoverForm
01-08-2011, 06:14 PM
i just read this whole thread and was very impressed by the knowledge and concern around here...

patty, i hope you and your LR are doing well.