Installing new shocks (and what brand?)

[NickDawson]

Hey folks,
Sorry for starting the new thread, wanted to separate the install question from the original issue.

I've started researching shocks to replace my driver's side rear shock that pulled apart. My inclination was OME just because its a brand I've always known (never had occasion to use though). So I was budgeting about $250 - thought I'd just replace the two rear shocks...

After spending 10 minutes looking at it, I realized I'd have to pull the wheels. Probably a good afternoon's worth of work for me, but didn't seem like more than 20-40 minutes for a shop with a lift. I thought in sheer interest of my own time that I'd call around and see if there was a local place that would sell and install them. They all keep telling me that it will be a few hours of labor.

First question - does that sound right? If it is a few hours, I'd rather do it myself, but that leads to #2
Is it that hard? I assume you have to compress them somehow to get them in place - does that require something special?

What is involved in installing new shocks on my own? It really looks as though it should be easy (excepting the compression part).

Finally, anyone have opinions about brands? One local guy was big on heckethorn - new name to me. If I'm going to do it myself, I'd just assume order from our hosts.

Thanks as always

[Andrew IIA]

This is definitely a do-it-yourself job. Shouldn't take more than 20 min. per wheel/shock. The shocks (usually) come compressed by a light metal rod-thingy, but they compress by hand easily. Top fixture is a bolt & washer, bottom fixture is a washer/cotter pin (or a bent nail if the cotter pin breaks). Getting the wheels off will be more work than installing the shocks :rolleyes:

I've had 'Pro-Comp' and 'OME'. I prefer the OME (sturdier and have better one-piece poly bushings).

Best regards, Andrew
'63 SIIA 88" SW

[NickDawson]

This is definitely a do-it-yourself job. Shouldn't take more than 20 min. per wheel/shock. The shocks (usually) come compressed by a light metal rod-thingy,

Done deal - thats all I needed to know - thanks Andrew!

[galen216]

20 minute job if everything goes right. Being a Land Rover it won't. It is an easy DIY but took me a lot longer than 20 minutes a wheel.

[bmohan55]

Very easy. I took my front ones off while rebuilding my swivel balls to give me more room to work, and I've gotten to enjoy taking things apart:D. Electric impact wrench from Harbor freight was a big help on the top bolts, bottom was held in by finishing nails!

While you are at it suggest you swing by Thurston Spring in Richmond to have them look at your leaf springs. I'm going to have them rebuild my flatted back ones soon as I'm done putting my front end back together.

[stomper]

I learned how to do shocks at a very young age from my father on 1980's Ford pick-up trucks. While I haven't done them on a rover yet, they are all pretty much the same. You should not have any difficulty, and as said before, they compress by hand easily.

Best advice I will give you though, is to pull out the PB blaster, and spray the shock bolts nightly for about 5 days prior to attempting the job. Trust me, you will thank me later, if you ever have to do them without this added step.:thumb-up:

[NickDawson]

Best advice I will give you though, is to pull out the PB blaster, and spray the shock bolts nightly for about 5 days prior to attempting the job. Trust me, you will thank me later, if you ever have to do them without this added step.:thumb-up:

Sounds like I got lucky! The bolts came right out when I tried (before I realized that they would not clear the tires by only 1/4 inch).

Thanks again for all the advice. Sounds easy as pie!

bmohan55 - I'll give Thurston a call, thanks!

[GrFa]

Nick, is your truck lifted? You could go with original equipment replacements from RN for $29 per shock. They will be lightyears ahead of your old/rotted ones.

[NickDawson]

Just spoke with our hosts - they talked me into the $189 ProComp kit over OME or Bilstien... What can I say, I'm a sucker for a deal :) Plus I can replace all 4 for less than two OMEs.

[Drain Rovers2]

Good choice... you will like them, good luck with the install!

[TeriAnn]

Hey folks,
I've started researching shocks to replace my driver's side rear shock that pulled apart. My inclination was OME just because its a brand I've always known (never had occasion to use though). So I was budgeting about $250 - thought I'd just replace the two rear shocks...


Your budget is a little generous. I just checked and the OMEs are $95 each (real expensive in my book) so two would be $190 But I understand that they are very good shocks.

[TeriAnn]

Your budget is a little generous. I just checked and the OMEs are $95 each (real expensive in my book) so two would be $190 But I understand that they are very good shocks.

Ooops just noticed that you already picked up a set of ProComps. I should have read the whole thread before replying. :o

[NickDawson]

Well, its a rover!
Got the wheel off, the top shock bolt came out in like 8 minutes... Im cruising along.. and boom.
The cotter pin on the bottom was actually welded. Who does that? I was able to cut the pin out but the rest has me stumped. If there was a bolt, it is no so rounded as to be a metal blob. I could cut it as well, but I fear that the threads are actually at the back of the receptacle (which is integrated with the axle springs bracket). Any tips without having to buy a new bracket? No amount of PB Blaster is going to fix this, that thing is as round as a dowel.
The green bible says that once you remove the pin then the rest is just a washer... but that is also stuck on there.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2582/4163680894_c649fd834c.jpg

[Sputnicker]

Don't worry - it's not a bolt. It's a perfectly round smooth pin with a hole for the cotter pin. You should be able to lever off the big washer if you've already removed the pin.

[TeriAnn]

Well, its a rover!
Got the wheel off, the top shock bolt came out in like 8 minutes... Im cruising along.. and boom.
The cotter pin on the bottom was actually welded. Who does that? I was able to cut the pin out but the rest has me stumped. If there was a bolt, it is no so rounded as to be a metal blob. I could cut it as well, but I fear that the threads are actually at the back of the receptacle (which is integrated with the axle springs bracket). Any tips without having to buy a new bracket?

eewwww!!!

That shock mount shaft is welded to the bottom plate and does not come off.

If it were me I'd just go shopping for a good used bottom plate & by the looks of things a new set of U bolts. Some battles are just not worth fighting.

[NickDawson]

If it were me I'd just go shopping for a good used bottom plate & by the looks of things a new set of U bolts. Some battles are just not worth fighting.

Yeah, guess that is Plan B. In the mean time, anyone think I'm suicidal to be driving around town (surface roads) without a driver's side rear shock?

Edited to add - HOLY COW! $75 for that plate? Back to plan A - guess I can try and cut that washer off/out but how will I get something to fit over the rounded bolt? The rest of the cotter pin is still in the post. Any ideas?

While I'm at it I'm going to order a new frame, body, engine, drive train... :D

Now I get the old joke:
How do you change the oil in a series?
1) remove old oil filter
2) do a frame-up restoration
3) fill with fresh oil

[NickDawson]

Don't worry - it's not a bolt. It's a perfectly round smooth pin with a hole for the cotter pin. You should be able to lever off the big washer if you've already removed the pin.

I really think the washer might have been welded on.. at least fused. Next time I have a full weekend I'll go at it again. I might also go back to the idea of finding a shop that doesn't quote 5-7 hours :)

[siiirhd88]

I have used a pin punch to dive out the remains of the cotter pins when they break off. I have also had to drill out pin remains when they were hopelessly rusted. A 4" angle grinder should be able to cut off the washer or grind thru the welds enough for it to be knocked off.

Bob
'96 Disco SE7
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8

[Nium]

Happy Holidays Nick,

Put a rotary wire brush in a drill and clean off as much rust and muck as you can from the post the shock mounts to.

Ideas on how to remove the washer...

Place a chisel/screwdriver between washer and shock and drive it in to seperate washer from shock.
Drill holes across the diameter of the washer to break it off.
Hacksaw just above post for shock or below it, staying parallel to it and only cutting through washer and shock.
Portable band saw instead of hacksaw and go through the washer and lower part of shock, staying off mounting post for shock and running parallel to it.
Sawzall fitted with metal blade.
If you want to try and keep washer :confused: get a three arm gear puller and try and pull it off.
As for the remnants of the cotter pin I agree with siiirhd88 in using a pin punch to drive the pin out of the shock mounting post.

After you get it all apart go at with the wire brush in the drill till all rust gone and lube up good with anti-seize or grease or paint with cold galvanizing paint and then grease. Install new shock.

:thumb-up:

[stomper]

Looks nasty, and with the shock broken, you can't lever it around on the pin to break it free. If you have a big pipe wrench, you can lock it onto the remainger of the shock, and try and spin it around the mounting pin. keep working the PB Blaster into it, and it should free itself from the pin. You do need to get the restof the cotter pin out, and the drift pin is about the only way.

While the cutting of the washer will work, try a torch. The rubber shock bushing should burn out of there, and free the shock as well. Just make sure you have an extinguisher handy, and are in a well ventilated area, with no gas around.

[Jim-ME]

I saw set of 4 galvanized mounts on Ebay which for $100 which ncluded shipping.
Jim

[kevkon]

I'd definately go wih new mounts with that much corrosion. You will be thankfull down the road. And when you consider the time involved in trying to clean up those existing ones and getting that cotter out, you will see what a bargain new mounts will be.

[NickDawson]

thanks gang, lots to think about, and wrong time of year for big Rover costs...
I know I could get the old washer off with my sawzall and even cut the old shock bottom out if I had to.... I worry that the post itself is now damaged from corrosion. If I go that route, I'll take the advice of cleaning it off with a pipe cleaner in a drill.

I'm still wondering about the risks of driving around town without a shock on one side.

If its minimal then I dont mind waiting a month and buying some new or used mounts.

As always, thanks again folks!

[Nium]

I don't believe it would hurt anything to drive without shock. It would just be very bouncy because well because of the lack of something to absorb shocks :). Just take it slow and easy, oh wait that shouldn't be a problem in a Series Landy.

Cheers

[NepentheSea]

I was replacing the shocks on my girlfriends Jeep- It had two threaded studs mounted to the underbody to hold a bar that goes through the top of the shock. One side came off fine, the other side one of the studs broke. I drove it up to a shop (with only three shocks) to have another stud welded in. I had no trouble at all driving while missing a shock- I think you'd be fine.

[NickDawson]

Some may recall from the start of this thread that I drove it 3 hours on the highway already without said shock... what does it say that the right did not change a bit :D ?

Just wanted to make sure that stopping and starting wasn't going to cause the axle to move front to back... guess thats the just of the axel mounts not the shock?

[brucejohn]

Nick, I can't think of a structural reason you need a shock. They carry no weight. Isn't their only purpose to retard the spring's nature to bounce.

Maybe your rig will sway more, though I doubt it. Wait until you can do it right, you'll be happier in the long run.

[NickDawson]

Nick, I can't think of a structural reason you need a shock. They carry no weight. Isn't their only purpose to retard the spring's nature to bounce.

Maybe your rig will sway more, though I doubt it. Wait until you can do it right, you'll be happier in the long run.

That was the answer I wanted to hear :D (I feel like a corporate CEO, just keep asking until you get the answer you want, even if its not the right one)

Thanks Brucejohn!

[brucejohn]

That was the answer I wanted to hear :D (I feel like a corporate CEO, just keep asking until you get the answer you want, even if its not the right one)

Thanks Brucejohn!

No problem - fire me anytime. As I usually say when giving advice, 'the round bin is always nearby.'

[scott]

missing or bad shocks will affect braking distance. as you're driving the shocks damping the spring action which will tend to keep your rubber in contact with the road which is kind of what ya need when breaking. but given our brakes suck when operating at their best i don't know if an overly bouncing wheel(s) would make things much worse