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View Full Version : Free wheel hubs: Warn M-11 replacing Superwinch



east high
12-06-2009, 09:53 PM
What's going on inside of the Superwinch free wheel hub? Apparently I need to remove all the little hex head bolts to get at whatever's keeping the whole fixture from releasing from the wheel (axle?). The big bummer is some of the hex head bolts are stripped... I got the six larger mounting bolts loose, but the hub is definitely blocked from coming off by something internally.

I'm replacing the Superwinch hubs with some Warn M-11. The Warns look dead simple, but because I don't have mounting instructions I need to ask for some advice on these too.

The green bible has a diagram of the stock hub and it shows a castle nut and cotter pin at the tip of the axle and I'd bet this is what's keeping the Superwinch hubs from coming off. Is this the case and is it something that gets carried over for use with the Warn hubs as well, or is their use specific to just the stock application?

Linus Tremaine
12-06-2009, 11:36 PM
You will have to grind the little nub on the end of the axle shaft off. Also, you need longer bolts. This is often the challenge since ( i think) the hubs are british standard fine...

east high
12-07-2009, 01:11 AM
You will have to grind the little nub on the end of the axle shaft off. Also, you need longer bolts. This is often the challenge since ( i think) the hubs are british standard fine...

The Warn hubs I got came with bolts, and IIRC, they were from another series.

How recognizable is this nub you speak of?

Linus Tremaine
12-07-2009, 09:43 AM
I only got some bolts with mine. Still sitting on the shelf.

Nub very easy to spot and pretty small.

TJR
12-07-2009, 11:28 AM
I do not belive I had to do anything to the axle shafts to use the warn hubs, though going from memory since my rig is still apart.

Check with Ike...

http://www.pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/reference/lib/fwh/fwh.html



http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.options.html


http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/BROCHURE_warnhubs_early70s.html

....Talbot

jac04
12-08-2009, 01:19 PM
Having just installed some Superwinch hubs, I can tell you that there is a nut on the end of the axle shaft which is preventing you from removing the hub. Also, the small screws are torx head, not hex.

east high
12-08-2009, 04:57 PM
Having just installed some Superwinch hubs, I can tell you that there is a nut on the end of the axle shaft which is preventing you from removing the hub. Also, the small screws are torx head, not hex.

Thanks, jac04.

rovertek
12-09-2009, 09:49 AM
try a left handed drill bit on the stripped heads it should back them out, or a larger diameter drill and drill the heads off pull hub off and unscrew the remainder of bolts out with pliars and replace with new bolts if reusing the same hub.....

east high
12-09-2009, 11:59 AM
try a left handed drill bit on the stripped heads it should back them out, or a larger diameter drill and drill the heads off pull hub off and unscrew the remainder of bolts out with pliars and replace with new bolts if reusing the same hub.....

That's a good idea you have about the reverse drill bit. I managed to get one little bolts loose and it is in fact a hex head, not a torx as jac04 mentioned in his post. This must be a difference between production runs or something. Either way I'm only interested in getting them off so I can install the Warns.

jac04
12-09-2009, 02:01 PM
...it is in fact a hex head, not a torx as jac04 mentioned in his post. This must be a difference between production runs or something.
Must be. Mine are brand spanking new, so they must have changed to torx over the years.

Nium
12-09-2009, 02:14 PM
If the inside of the allen bolt isn't completely rounded out try sticking a flathead screwdriver into the head, that just barely fits, and push the screwdriver toward the bolt (to prevent it caming out) while trying to turn the screwdriver. If it's a square shank screwdriver try putting an adjustable wrench on the shank to assist in turning while pushing the screwdriver into the bolt to keep it from caming out. The best would be to use a flathead that you'd have to hammer into the bolt head to get the best contact.