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View Full Version : Taking FOREVER Starting Issue



amcordo
12-07-2009, 03:40 PM
OK, I know it's always difficult to get these things to get going in the cold but I drained a battery starting mine today. Finally got it going after being jumped for about ten minutes. It would fire, then die. Once it even turned over and i got it to 2000 rpm for about 3 seconds then it died. I don't have the original engine, but rather an old GM v8 with distributor cap etc. I heard a cylinder fire or two and then it would peter out. Pump the gas a few more times, same thing. Finally got it going, but now I'm trying to figure out what the big deal was. How does water in the lines manifest? Anything else I should typically pay attention to?

I don't mind if it's hard to start, but if I have to try turning it over so many times that it drains the batter that could be inconvenient on a cold dark night.

greasyhandsagain
12-07-2009, 04:21 PM
While I cant give you specifics on your NON land rover engine, I will tell you that my 2 litre Rover Engine was getting VERY difficult to start. Much the same symptoms you are having. A compression check revealed the problem, burned exhaust valves in 3 out of 4 cylinders. Finally got the motor back together this morning, and that old girl started on what I would say was ONE HALF turn of the engine. never have I had an engine start so easily and run so sweet.

All because of bad compression.

so Id suggest that you do a compression check.

I had been very eager to point the finger at everything from plugs, points, condenser, wires, carb, fuel filters.....and replaced all of them. Getting that end of the mule in tip top shape was great, getting the valves in tip top shape completed the bargain and now that motor is running like new. amazing.

Arent you happy Winter is here???

amcordo
12-07-2009, 07:01 PM
Thanks! This will be my first time checking compression, so this should be fun.

Tis the season to be jolly!


While I cant give you specifics on your NON land rover engine, I will tell you that my 2 litre Rover Engine was getting VERY difficult to start. Much the same symptoms you are having. A compression check revealed the problem, burned exhaust valves in 3 out of 4 cylinders. Finally got the motor back together this morning, and that old girl started on what I would say was ONE HALF turn of the engine. never have I had an engine start so easily and run so sweet.

All because of bad compression.

so Id suggest that you do a compression check.

I had been very eager to point the finger at everything from plugs, points, condenser, wires, carb, fuel filters.....and replaced all of them. Getting that end of the mule in tip top shape was great, getting the valves in tip top shape completed the bargain and now that motor is running like new. amazing.

Arent you happy Winter is here???

greasyhandsagain
12-07-2009, 08:49 PM
Its pretty easy. Pull all the plugs. open the throttle, screw in the gizmo, and give it a few turns of the starter. Record each reading. Doing it "dry" will give you the condition of the valves. giving a good squirt of engine oil into the cylinder will let you know the conditon of the rings.

Good luck, If you are having troubles with your motor I suggest you either go back to a Rover engine, or if you are really "into it" get yourself a Studebaker 289, simply the best V8 engine ever made. ;-)

SafeAirOne
12-07-2009, 08:55 PM
A compression check revealed the problem, burned exhaust valves in 3 out of 4 cylinders.

Not to go OT here, but what was the root cause of your burned valves? Unleaded fuel? Lean Mixture?

amcordo
12-07-2009, 09:05 PM
Meh. I'll probably just drive this engine into the ground then replace it with another one from the local wrecker yard.


Its pretty easy. Pull all the plugs. open the throttle, screw in the gizmo, and give it a few turns of the starter. Record each reading. Doing it "dry" will give you the condition of the valves. giving a good squirt of engine oil into the cylinder will let you know the conditon of the rings.

Good luck, If you are having troubles with your motor I suggest you either go back to a Rover engine, or if you are really "into it" get yourself a Studebaker 289, simply the best V8 engine ever made. ;-)

greasyhandsagain
12-08-2009, 10:23 AM
Why? Im not exactly sure on that. It MAY be the Weber carb, I will look into rejetting this. It MAY be the high speed running Ive subjected a Series 1 engine to......It MAY be unleaded fuel. Ive considered going back to a SOLEX, and missed winning a fully rebuilt one on ebayUK (oh well).

I was considering stainless steel valves from another supplier, but in the end, on the advice from the Sages on the UK Series 1 Club Forum...decided to go with original equipment. their logic, and I see the value of this, was that it is FAR better to burn a valve than to burn a valve seat. Having stainless steel valves will cause the seats to wear out before the valves. I was very happy that the seats on my engine were still in PERFECT condition. It was one days fairly easy work to remove the head and assorted bits and pieces, and install NOS valves. The difference it has made is stunning. Also, had the opportunity to clean up the motor, renew some of the annoying little things, redo a few gaskets and generally end up with a better engine out of it all.

I understand exhaust valves are considered a "service item" to be replaced every 40,000 miles. since my rover has 91,000 miles, perhaps what I seen was the end of set number 2.

It will start on 1/2 turn of the engine. Just.....amazing.

Those valves that were in there lasted me at least 10 years, and Im not sure about how long the previous owners had them in.

If they last another 10 years, well...Ill be happy.

amcordo
12-14-2009, 07:47 AM
Just as follow up to this...


Simple fix. I got a new battery. I had no idea that the old battery was so bad - it just wasn't turning the engine over. The new battery has a much higher cold cranking amp rating, isn't ten years old (no joke) and can start the truck in two tries.

thixon
12-14-2009, 05:28 PM
Hi amcordo,

Glad you got it fixed. I did'nt see this post right away. In Asia...again...for the third time in five months.
My routine for a starting problem is always to check for fuel/fire/air. I pull the fuel line and make sure I'm getting pressure(clogged filter, crap in float valve). Then I check for spark (bad points or ig module), and air flow(dirty or blocked air cleaner). With any motor, if you're deficient of any of the three, it won't run right. If you check out clean on all three, then you can move onto the big stuff...and start getting nervous.

yorker
12-15-2009, 06:52 AM
Why? Im not exactly sure on that. It MAY be the Weber carb, I will look into rejetting this. It MAY be the high speed running Ive subjected a Series 1 engine to......It MAY be unleaded fuel. Ive considered going back to a SOLEX, and missed winning a fully rebuilt one on ebayUK (oh well).

I was considering stainless steel valves from another supplier, but in the end, on the advice from the Sages on the UK Series 1 Club Forum...decided to go with original equipment. their logic, and I see the value of this, was that it is FAR better to burn a valve than to burn a valve seat. Having stainless steel valves will cause the seats to wear out before the valves. I was very happy that the seats on my engine were still in PERFECT condition. It was one days fairly easy work to remove the head and assorted bits and pieces, and install NOS valves. The difference it has made is stunning. Also, had the opportunity to clean up the motor, renew some of the annoying little things, redo a few gaskets and generally end up with a better engine out of it all.

I understand exhaust valves are considered a "service item" to be replaced every 40,000 miles. since my rover has 91,000 miles, perhaps what I seen was the end of set number 2.

It will start on 1/2 turn of the engine. Just.....amazing.

Those valves that were in there lasted me at least 10 years, and Im not sure about how long the previous owners had them in.

If they last another 10 years, well...Ill be happy.

This was on a Series 1?
2.0?:sly:

greasyhandsagain
12-15-2009, 08:37 AM
I have a very very early production 1958 series 2. It has its original 2 litre IOE series 1 type engine, and its original gearbox. So....Im a little S1, and a bit more S2.

But DAMN that old gal is running SO good now!!!!!! 52 ponies under that bonnet and each and every one of them is tuned and perking!