Assembling the rear main bearing cap

[Tim Smith]

Anyone got a trick to get the gasket that goes onto the rear main bearing cap in place without ripping it all to shreds? It's that silly T looking gasket that goes right onto the rear main cap before assembly.

The assembly part has me befuddled. :o

[kevin-ct]

My thumb is still bleeding! :mad:

[Tim Smith]

My thumb is still bleeding! :mad:I always find that once I start bleeding, that's when things start going together the way they should. What were we doing wrong???

Maybe we needed a bigger hammer. ;)

[gudjeon]

What I did, and I must have been lucky, as it worked the first time. install T's with a light application of aviation form-a-gasket (doesn't dry completely). Light smear of silicone sealant on the block portion and install made before it dries (lubes so it can slide without tearing).

The t seals must be trimmed so they stand prod slightly when installed in the slot (~1/16"). A dab of silicone RTV or Form-a-gasket stuff where the bottom of the T seal will rest on the block.

Use two thin pieces of sheet metal to aid in sliding the block with t's and goop to get it started into the space. Once they are started to enter the space and the T' are not caught, gently slide in place. Resistance to bottoming should be felt from the bottom of the T's slightly protruding. You may even want to peer into the bottom of the block for a look for these before it bottoms, just to be sure.

Once bottomed and in place, the T's will compress, and the sealant will give it an extra hand to seal up into to the corners.

Good luck:thumb-up:

[Tim Smith]

Thanks gudjeon. Do you remember what the thin pieces of metal sheet were? We attempted pretty much what you describe with some thin feeler guages but they were too thick to do both sides at once. I'm looking at my can of PBR right now and wondering if it would be thin enough to fit on both sides of the cap as we slid it in.

[gudjeon]

Yeah thin, almost like pop (or beer if you like) can thin.

[TJR]

The Haynes "restoration" book shows 2 tapered blocks that bolt and for a lead in...

Pics here...
http://picasaweb.google.com/88seriesiii/LR_RearMain?authkey=Gv1sRgCOCPssa8lNiLVw&feat=directlink

...TJR

[Tim Smith]

The Haynes "restoration" book shows 2 tapered blocks that bolt and for a lead in...Yeah, I know. It would be nice to have all the right tools.

Thanks for the pictures but I have to ask, what year is that book?

[TJR]

The pics are from this book

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-3013-haynes-restoration-manual-series-i-ii-iii.aspx

Published early 90's and reprinted later a few times.


..Talbot

[Enigma]

Make your own blocks fron some mild steel. I used 1 inch 1/4 thick mild steel, drilled holes to suit, carefully ground a bevel and filed a round over to remore the sharp edge. If you drill the holes slightly oversized you can adjust the wedges to slide exactly to the edge before bolting them in place. Lube it well and there you have it!!!


I did this years ago but I don't think it took more than about a half hour to make.

Cheers