How do I replace my negative battery cable?

[morgant]

I've got a bit of an electrical leak, so I picked up one of those battery cut-off switches that is just a knob on a terminal connector. I've got all the hardware I need to attach it except I failed to notice that the terminal connector on the negative cable is permanently attached (the positive one is not) to the braided cable. I can cut the braided cable and crimp on a copper lug (a lug would be best to attach to the cut-off connector), but the braided cable is looking fairly rough so should I just be replacing it?

If I can & should replace it, can I use a standard black battery cable or is it best to replace with braided? Braided would certainly be more 'stock' (assuming this is the original cable, which it appears to be), so where can I find a replacement as I didn't find anything from our hosts?

It appears that the negative batter cable is just attached to the bottom of the battery box, correct? How hard is it to pull the whole battery box out? The only thing else that appears to be attached to it is the oil bath filter. The battery box is fairly rusted, so it could really use a sanding & coat of POR-15 before putting it back if I do take it out.

[KevinNY]

You can pick up a universal replacement cable at any auto store. Mine is attached to the block at the lift ring bolt.

[jac04]

A source for inexpensive but high quality Mil-spec battery cables & ground straps is Saturn Surplus.
I got this stuff from them for way cheap:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/000_1330.jpg]

[ignotus]

The battery box and air cleaner shelf are welded on to the frame at the factory. Unless a PO did something different that is the way yours should still be. You can cut it off and fix it up and reweld it back on. Make sure the battery and cleaner are out!:D

[leafsprung]

The bottom of the battery tray is welded to the frame, while the sides, tiedown cleats and complete air cleaner support are a separate assembly secured with 4 bolts.

[morgant]

I'll definitely just replace my negative cable with a new, readily available cable.


[...] while the sides, tiedown cleats and complete air cleaner support are a separate assembly secured with 4 bolts.

Ooh, that's what I like to hear. I'll find the screws tomorrow, but if anyone's got a picture or two in the meantime... I'd especially like to see what the tie-down system is supposed to look like as my battery doesn't have anything holding it down.

[Jeff Aronson]

When my braided cable failed, I replaced it with a standard cable I purchased at a FLAPS [Friendly Local Auto Parts]. I grounded it at the bolt that holds the oil filler neck in place.

Battery tie downs are usually clamps of one sort or another; you just want something that will hold it firmly in place in case the Rover tips during off roading, or bounces around on huge ftost heaves and melts the terminal [don't ask how I know this].

Jeff

[morgant]

Yup, found the nuts amongst the rust and peeling paint... or what's left of them. I'll wait 'til the weather gets nicer to do the battery box sand & POR-15 as it'll be easiest with the wing off since I'll probably have to drill those bolts out. If I do it the same weekend I do the radiator, I should have more than enough access.

In the meantime, I'll just replace the battery cable. (Wimp.) With it 50°F out right now, I'm actually tempted to pull the wing off now, but I can't be skipping out of work for that.