Stage 1 Land Rover?

**Jeff Aronson** · 01-25-2010, 11:17 AM

Hi Derek,

The Stage I is an interesting beast, an effort to get more pep for road use into the Land Rover. You can see it needed the 90/110 front to accomodate the V-8 radiator. The 3.5 is still a bit underpowered for the shape and size of the car. Other than cam wear, the engine has a good reputation. I don't remember reading of significant problems with that model, but there's no doubt that it uses a lot of gas to move it around at speed

.

I'd be suspicous of a vehicle that required the installation of Defender doors as replacements, and you'd be paying for the LPG conversion costs factored into the sales price. There may be more corrosion elsewhere, too, or the P.O. just wanted wind up windows. Either way, there's a reason for the replacement. Lastly, a LWB with no windows is a dark place, indeed.

I don't know if the MOD ever ordered Stage I's for their use; it would not make much sense as a mlitary vehicle. More knowledgeable enthusiasts need to step in here.

Jeff

**Firemanshort** · 01-25-2010, 02:28 PM

Stage One's are the absolute best

Let me open up with the fact that I own a Stage One - so I may be slightly biased.

When you buy a Rover - it is all in what you are looking for. I bought mine a few years back before the Defenders were legal. It replaced an old Series III SWB.

I wanted a truck that could haul a few things and replace my old Mazda pickup for Home Depot runs. I wanted more speed on the road so I could get to Land Rover events down the interstate a little better. And, I wanted to keep things as old fashioned and simple as possible.

A LWB Rover with a V8, faster diffs, and a set of carbs fit my bill.

Now, as Jeff said - it sucks gas. The best ever I got was 14mpg and the average is closer to 11 or 12 mpg. But these numbers are not a lot different from the 4cyl models. The power difference is amazing. Ok... all of you 4.6 liter supper charged guys quit snickering at me. The step up from a tired 2.25 to a well running 3.5 is a big step up. The torque impressed me the most. When I had the 4cyl S3 I would have to approve big rocks, stumps or trees with a roll up and touch and the slip clutch crawl over to feather power / speed. The V8 mostly just idles up to stuff and idles over.

As far as everything else - they are still a 25 - 30 year old dumb work truck from the UK. Most were used hard all of thier life and will likely get to you with signs of wear on all fronts. Rust is the same as a regular Land Rover. Parts are a little tricky sometimes - but not impossible. I sometimes do some cross matching to Range Rovers to get what I need but most of the parts are just regualr Series 3.

The Aussies and Kiwis used Stage Ones as MOD trucks. The Kiwis put a deisel in them after a while, too (I think).

I ditched my van top for the reason Jeff said and went with the soft top for the open air feel in the summer. I tried the pickup top - liked it but would not work with the hi-back seats.

**TeriAnn** · 01-25-2010, 02:38 PM

I don't know where you are located but the Stage I has a number of unique parts which might be hard to find in the States. They were only made for a few years so I suspect unique parts support is not all that strong. But I bet one could make due by adapting some early Range Rover and Defender parts if anything unique breaks.

The factory detuned the engine from the Range Rover to the Stage I so there is a lot more power to be had & the gearbox used has a good reputation in general.

In North America it would be a very rare Land Rover that will draw every local enthusiast to you truck for a look see, but I would worry a tad about quick replacement parts availability for the unique drive train parts.

I think it s a great truck if you want a no hassle V8 leafer without the normal DIY conversion teething headaches or the negative "butchered truck comments" from the purists. In North America, it will be a popular truck amongst fellow enthusiasts which will get a lot of oos & ahhs.

But because of the relative rarity of some drive train components I would get one because I wanted a Stage I and not because I wanted something else but settled on one.

Trucks without rear side windows get a tax break in the UK which is why so many are purchased without rear side windows. However because there are so many dark mobile caves there is a good selection of after market rear side windows available for the DYI owner. You can always pick up a nice set of sliding rear side windows from a UK dealer that you can install yourself later.

Caveat: I've never owned one so I'm just guessing about parts availability, but I have seen a few and have been mysteriously drawn to them like a moth to a flame uttering appropriate "oos" and "ahhs".

**Terrys** · 01-25-2010, 02:49 PM

I've done a fair bit or work on my son's '83 and can say it is fast. It had a '95 3.9 put in before he got it, and with the Holley 500cfm 4 barrel and Edelbrock manifold, it's hard to hold back. The LT95 4 speed is a very good transmission and there are plenty of spares if needed. Most chassis items are S3, but the frame is unique to the Stage One.
Both my son and Firemanshort are regulars over on Guns & Rovers. Look them up over there.
There's nothing odd about using 110 roll-ups, they all have the same aperture. Get Churchill to swap out that top for one with windows. Changing lanes with a RHD truck with no rear windows is kinda hairy.

**greenmeanie** · 01-25-2010, 02:58 PM

The only drive train parts that are unique to the Stage 1 are the front prop shaft and the front axle. The prop shaft is merely a double cardon set up which any decent shop can knock out for you pretty cheap. The front axle is unique in that it has CV front half shafts with hubs made to support them and the knuckles are an integral part of the axle tube. Make sure you check them for good chrome as there is no replacing them. That's really the only part to be wary of.

The LT95 was used by the 101, the early RR and early 110 so parts are pretty easy to come by. You can even regear the transfer case to give it longer legs on the freeway.

The engine was merely detuned by placing restrictors in the intakes under the carbs. In the unlikely event they haven't been removed already it is about 1/2 hour job to get your power back. You also can help performance by swapping in an Edelbrock intake and carb or it will even take any of the later, bigger V8s from more modern trucks which offers the possibilty of fuel injection too.

**rwollschlager** · 01-25-2010, 06:50 PM

My dad and I own three series vehicles: SIII 88, SIIA 109, and 82 Stage 1 V8. Its been a love hate relationship with the stage 1, like any other rover, I hate it when it breaks and i love it when it drives. It is by far my favorite of our bunch to drive. It is much quiter than a 2.25 below highway speeds, and when it does reach highway speeds the noise is not unbearable.... but be mindful it still has drum brakes so it wont stop any better than your average series. On an open high way my brother was following me in a car with a working speedometer and I could push it well over 70 with a 3.9 and the Edelbrock intake manifold and carb. However that is not something I do, or would reccomend doing frequently for the safety and well being of your self, your vehicle, and other motorists.

Permanent four wheel drive with a pneumatic locking centre diff came factory (NOT AXLE diff locks) and is a decent set up, only one lever for high/low range, then a knob for the diff lock. As firemanshort said 1st gear low range and it will idle over just about anything.

Do a search on the forum as there a few great threads about stage one's already.
-Rob

**Tim Smith** · 01-26-2010, 10:48 AM

Also make sure you can adapt the LPG kit so that you can fill it up state side. Not sure it's much cheaper to run in the states but it would be a shame if you couldn't use it at least as a reserve tank.

**Firemanshort** · 01-26-2010, 01:10 PM

Also - http://stage1v8.org.uk/phpBB2/ - all Stage One's all the time.

You might flip through there to hear about searches for radiators, overdrives and the epic quest to find someone to make a disc brake conversion for the Stage One.

**greenmeanie** · 01-26-2010, 02:28 PM

That's a good stage 1 forum link. On a side note I didn't know Ray was looking at making an LT95 Roverdrive. Someone should mention that he needs to talk to the 101 crowd to increase his market to allow him to bring unit cost down. Our 5.57 diffs drive rpm through the roof on the freeway even with the RR retrofit high range gearing. 101s are also notorious for eating the Fairey overdrives.

**AAXD** · 02-04-2010, 04:06 PM

Stage 1 owner checking in. Probably the biggest thing holding the stage 1 back (or not, depending on how you think of it) are the brakes. it can be downright scary cruising down the road and having a deer run out in front of you. You get a lot of power and speed out of these trucks compared to a 2.25. I daily drive my Stage 1 now and I have to adjust my schedule around the truck now rather than just getting in and turning the key. It's a lot like starting an old radial engined airplane. Turn key on, wait for fuel pressure to build, pump pedal a few times, pull choke half way out and crank. Sometimes it fires to life instantly, sometimes it does exactly what an old radial will do and cough and sputter and require constant babysitting to get it running. I just had my wiring harness completely melt down on me so I'm in the process of rewiring the entire truck now. Right now the entire truck is running off a temporary fused jumper I made with pigtails going to vital circuits. My heater and wipers only work on high, flasher circuit is gone, dash lights only work when the parking lights are on etc.

**rwollschlager** · 02-04-2010, 07:58 PM

Originally posted by AAXD

Right now the entire truck is running off a temporary fused jumper I made with pigtails going to vital circuits. My heater and wipers only work on high, flasher circuit is gone, dash lights only work when the parking lights are on etc.

Good luck with your new harness I'd like to see how it comes out. My stage 1 was having some very interesting electrical symptoms. I ran a jumper wire from the battery to the wire on the resistor for the coil (with a relay and a kill switch built in) and drove it around like that. Suprisingly the fuel pump and coil draw from the same source, so i only needed one wire. Your dad helped me diagnose the problem as a faulty ignition switch and it runs great

-Rob

**disco2hse** · 07-12-2010, 02:12 AM

Anyone know if Derek found what he was looking for? Did these replies answer his questions?

Stage 1 Land Rover?

Stage 1 Land Rover?

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