Kodiak MK III heater core

[stomper]

I just pulled apart the heater in My rover to figure out why I am not getting any heat. I blows hot for a while, and then luke warm after about an hour. I am also losing coolant down the rear of the front wheel well. What seems to be happening is as the coolant level drops, I lose the heat, and if I top up the radiator, I gain it back. There is some mild caked up coolant on the core, so it is leaking in a couple of areas.

Does anyone know of a replacement core that will fit that I can pick up at Napa? I don't think I am going to have time to have this one repaired prior to the winter romp. demensions are 8 X 10 X 2 3/8.

[yorker]

When you lose coolant you lose the flow through the heater. Since time is shorth I'd look into an auxillary heater as a quick fix while you get your Kodiak's heater core repaired.

[alaskajosh]

Don't know if it can be done in time.. but for repair Ike at Pangolin4x4 did me right on a core that my local shop said was irrepairable. Prompt, courteous, and quality service.
Kind regards, Josh

[stomper]

Since the box is all apart, I am going to try and get it repaired Monday morning. Worst case senario, I'll snag an aux. heater at an RV store, and bungee it in behind the front seats. There aren't many radiator shops close by, but they should be able to comlete it in short order. It is just leaking where the lower expansion tank connects to the finned surface, right on the seam. Certainly salvageable.

The P.O. used a black adhesive, like you would use to seal a windshield around the holes the two pipes for the core came out of. Should I use this stuff again, or nothing at all, or is there a better alternative?

[stomper]

Another question, The heater hose from the front of the engine, by the thermostat has a join in it next to the valve cover. I noticed Jac has this also on his newly rebuild lightweight. What is this here for? I was going to replace the hose with a solid hose, thinking the P.O. did this to fix a leak.

[yorker]

The P.O. used a black adhesive, like you would use to seal a windshield around the holes the two pipes for the core came out of. Should I use this stuff again, or nothing at all, or is there a better alternative?

I'd use something there once it is fitted. Foam? Dum Dum putty? Silicone? Great Stuff? ;) Whatever works for you.

[jac04]

Another question, The heater hose from the front of the engine, by the thermostat has a join in it next to the valve cover. I noticed Jac has this also on his newly rebuild lightweight. What is this here for? I was going to replace the hose with a solid hose, thinking the P.O. did this to fix a leak.
Well, in my case, the rubber 90 degree heater hose at the front of the engine originally hooked up to a metal pipe that ran along the valve cover. Then a short piece of rubber hose connected the metal pipe to the heater core. Instead of using the original metal hose, I just decided to use a straight piece of rubber heater hose and a brass hose connector to connect the heater core to the 90 degree rubber hose.

[daveb]

stomper

I had my heater core rebuilt by Universal Carnegie MFG in Pennsylvania. They literally did the work the day they got it and had it sent back out the same day. I mailed it on a thursday and it was on my doorstep finished on monday morning. The work is impeccable and cost was about $115 US.

I would phone them up and see what they can do. All the internet cores and ford falcon/comet cores are 2" instead of the 2 1/2" you need for the kodiak. That equals a loss of 20% of your heating ability, or if you go with one of the 6 x 8 then it is even worse.

http://universalcarnegieradiatorworks.com/index.html

rgrds
dave

[stomper]

Thanks Jac04, That makes sense, I think I will run it as one length then, one less thing to leak!

I brought in my heater matrix today to S&M Radiator in Chelsea, Maine. They say it will be ready tomorrow morning! They do all the radiators for East Coast Rover, so they knew just what I was looking for. They have 8X10X2.5 inch cores already in stock, and they estimate an hour to hook it all together.

Whoo Hoo! Heat will be restored! Winter Romp here I come!

[TeriAnn]

They have 8X10X2.5 inch cores already in stock, and they estimate an hour to hook it all together.


Hopefully when they are done they cut the core to 8X8X2.5 inches, the standard Kodiak Mk III heater core size.

[stomper]

At 8X10X2.5, it fits perfectly into the heater box, so if they were originally 8X8, then there must have been some wiggle room in there originally. Also, the extra 2 inches would give better heat output, no? Perhaps I am measuring it incorrectly. I'm including the tanks on either side in my measurements, so the core itself is most likely 8X8 as you stated.

I picked up the core yesterday, and the thing is HEAVY! about twice the weight it was when I brought it in. I'm guessing it is because the heater matrix is of a heavier gauge copper. Regardless, it seems to be built to last now. I should be putting it in tonight with new water hoses, so I don't have to play with it again anytime soon.

[daveb]

congrats. glad you found a place to do it that is close by. when you put it in, use some camper tape or other foam to wedge it in place and prevent any air from flowing past it. you want all the air to go through the fins.

you might also want to rinse it out both ways to make sure any residual acids are gone or any other foreign matter.

so for the record how much did this work run you?




At 8X10X2.5, it fits perfectly into the heater box, so if they were originally 8X8, then there must have been some wiggle room in there originally. Also, the extra 2 inches would give better heat output, no? Perhaps I am measuring it incorrectly. I'm including the tanks on either side in my measurements, so the core itself is most likely 8X8 as you stated.

I picked up the core yesterday, and the thing is HEAVY! about twice the weight it was when I brought it in. I'm guessing it is because the heater matrix is of a heavier gauge copper. Regardless, it seems to be built to last now. I should be putting it in tonight with new water hoses, so I don't have to play with it again anytime soon.

[stomper]

$150 for the rebuilt core, and under $5.00 for new hoses to hook it all up. That price may seem steep, but given the fact there is only one radiator repair place close by, they have cornered the market. Also, as I said prior, the thing is almost twice as heavy, so the core seems a bit more robust than other shops might do. The cores are hand made in Lewiston Maine, and I am willing to pay a bit more to support my local economy:)

[jac04]

The cores are hand made in Lewiston Maine, and I am willing to pay a bit more to support my local economy:)
You spent your money well. I had the 'big tank' radiator re-cored for my 63 Land Rover and my local shop used a custom core from Maine Auto Radiator in Lewiston. Awesome quality, and I paid for it! The custom core alone was $475. I also had the original radiator for my 68 Camaro done by the same shop with a MAR core. I couldn't be happier with the quality.

[stomper]

That is the place! Glad you have had good luck with the cores. My core alone was $100, and $55 was the labor.

[stomper]

Ahhhh, can I just get a break for once? Got the heater matrix all in, started the rig, and the blower motor no longer works. apparently some crud losened up in there when I was moving it around to get the core in. Now for a new motor, and disassembly......again!

[daveb]

you sure its grounded?



Ahhhh, can I just get a break for once? Got the heater matrix all in, started the rig, and the blower motor no longer works. apparently some crud losened up in there when I was moving it around to get the core in. Now for a new motor, and disassembly......again!

[stomper]

It has a black grounding wire, and a second wire running to the switch. I tried powering it directly off the battery, nothing. It was working fine before I removed the unit, but I see a lot of crud built up around the coil, and I may have pulled the wire some with removal.

I read on here that a ford blower motor is the same. from a similar era vehicle. can anyone confirm this, or have you replaced your blower with something available locally?