Scratching my head...painless wiring questions

[SeriesShorty]

In hopes that the weather will be improving for a few days in the near future I have been thinking about getting started where I left off on my truck. I last left it mid 24v to 12v conversion. I have the generator off and a new alternator purchased, still working on the bracketry for this. I've also removed a lot of the old wiring and coax, this was an FFR truck.

So now I'm looking for opinions. Keep in mind that I am not counting rivets and I'm trying to keep things as simple as possible and with materials that are available locally & cheaply.

Since my truck was FFR I have the 7-way light switch, an ignition switch, dual ammeters, seperate 24v flasher relay, and a gazillion relays on the bulkhead. What is the best way to work around all of this considering that I am using a 12 circuit painless style wiring harness? I have no problem getting rid of the 7-way switch and ammeters. I want to keep the dash simple and totally redo it. Speedo, voltmeter, maybe a tach, and fuel. How would you work a new ignition and light switch set up? Do I need all those all old, crusty relays on the bulkhead?

Alternately, if you've done something groovy to your dash shoot me some pics. Inspiration is always welcome. And any experienced tips from others converting and rewiring a similar model Series is greatly appreciated!

Jen

[thixon]

If you aren't "counting rivets" and have a painless harness, then why do you need to keep any of it? You can buy new switches at radio shack, or a place like west marine. As far as the relays go, well, since you have a completely new aftermarket harness, this is your chance to really simplify things.

Painless and others make keyed ingition switches, or you can use the original with the new harness. Are you wanting to use the original gauges, or go aftermarket? If aftermarket, head over to jegs or summit and look around at their quages. I used a cheap brand called equos. They a little like older brit gauges (sort of).

[SeriesShorty]

Thanks Travis, you hit it right on the head though. What you said sounds exactly like what I want to do. Since I'm not to saavy on the electrical stuff I wanted some input to make sure I wasn't off the wall with my line of thinking.

I think I've got my plan down for the ignition switch, a good ole generic tractor keyed switch should serve my purpose well. As for the headlights, turn signals and brakes I'm not so sure. The 7-way military switch has me boggled on how to wire up all of this since the signals, flashers and brake lights should work all the time. Easy peasy on having the headlights on their own switch, and the Hellas on their own switch.

I'll check out the gauges you suggested, too. Anything I should worry about when ordering gauges that may be Rover specific, sending units, etc.?

I'm getting excited about my project again just by working through this. It's been a while since I've had a wrench in my hand!

[LaneRover]

A lot of the military wiring is stuff you don't need - unless of course you plan on traveling in convoy at night and need to choose between all lights or just sidelights or even just the light that hits the top of the differential that should be painted white and so on.

[greenmeanie]

Jen,
What Painless kit did you buy?

Travis is correct that you can keep things very simple by reverting to a civilian 3 position switch and indicator control for your lights. If you wish to retain the military 6 way I think I stil have a PDF copy of the circuit diagram I created for my 101 to adapt it to a painless harness using relays to control the main power. The lights are essentially the same system.

[SeriesShorty]

I think I ended up with an American Wiring or something like that 12-circuit kit Greenmeanie. It's really, really basic. Has the flasher and one relay on the fuse block, and minimal wiring just to get ya to the components.

And I'm all for getting rid of that snake nest of wiring that is known as the 7-way switch. The simpler and more separate I can keep things the better. I bet I've already yanked out a good 50# of wiring. The bed of my truck looks like someone blew up a Terminator, old skool Arnold style of course, and deposited it back there.

What have you guys done to upgrade your speedo? Mine works, but it looks like hell. I'd prefer it to match my other gauges if I end up getting new ones (which I would like). I wonder if a boat speedo would work with the stock Rover cable? That'd be cool since they typically go to around 65mph...and lord know my truck will never come close to that! :p

And what components will need relays? I know the headlights and Hellas will. I'm using a low pressure aftermarket electric fuel pump, but so far it runs just fine without a relay. I've got a handful of those handy Cadillac waterproof relays, just want to make sure I've got relays where needed when I start to lay out my wiring.

[greenmeanie]

Relay circuits:
1. Headlights dipped.
2. Headlights main beam.
3. Horn.
4. Fuel pump.
5. Starter although this should just be the stock item.
6. Beer cooler.

Running these circuits off a relay means you can avoid putting full current through the ignition and dash switches which will make them last longer. You can also make the power harness more direct and therefore shorter reducing feeder drop which will help with brighter headlights.

[SeriesShorty]

Surely someone has set up a keg tap dispensing out of the tub before!

Great list, I totally didn't even think about the horn! :eek: Speaking of horns. I know for the conversion I need to switch to a 12v horn. I'm assuming that any 12v horn will work and I don't need to steal one off a friends parts truck. Of course, there is always the big air trucker horn!

[SeriesShorty]

I figured 40amps for relays and toggle switch ratings. Is that cool?

Ahhh, what about voltage regulator? The military trucks had the filter box for this, which of course is defunct. Any suggestions on what is needed for voltage regulation and where in the harness it should go? If I'm using "modern" aftermarket gauges do I even need a voltage regulator?

Good idea to add a fusible link at the battery? If so, what size would be ideal?

Thanks again,
Jen

[scott]

you're converting to an altenator right? if so no need for a voltage regulator as modern altenators have 'em built in. voltage stabilizers help with guages that are sensative to voltage spikes. an altenator will put out 14 to 16 volts. maybe modern gauges don't care but the old rove ones do

[greenmeanie]

40A ratings for relays is good. IIRC a fuel pump has about the largest draw and that is about 20A or slightly more. Some 'lecky fans like the very popular Ford Taurus unit have a high current spike on start up and reaquire a heavier duty 70A relay.

If you are using relays the switches can be a lot less as they only carry power to trigger the solenoid in the relay and not system power.

Painless sell a maxi fuse with their kits. IIRC it is 70A. They are available as a seperate part 80101. I have a vague recolection of noticing something similar at the local parts shop which may be cheaper. It is a good idea.

[siii8873]

Can I ask a dumb question what does "IIRC" stand for, I've seen this a number of times and don't have a clue?

[Nium]

IIRC = If I Remember Correctly
or If I Recall Correctly

[SeriesShorty]

LOL You wouldn't believe the trouble that SWMBO gave me.
She Who Must Be Obeyed :D

Now to go check the ratings on those Cadillac relays I swiped from the junkyard!