Idle issues & Clutch whine

[NickDawson]

Hey folks!
Fresh off my transmission repair (IE yanking my over drive) I've been all over town lately - its been snowing a lot here in Richmond and the Rover is like a snow leopard, chewing it up.

Ive got two strange issues that are seemingly related, at least in their audio manifestation. Firstly, the engine seems to be idling high, but not at first. After starting and warming up, the engine starts revving when I put the clutch in or shift into neutral. It doesn't take long to start, and almost feels like the choke is still pulled. I've checked the choke cable and its fine.

I am also getting some dieseling, even after short jaunts.

Before I start tinkering with the idle adjustment on the carb (we all know what happens when I play with the carb) is there a temperature answer here? This is my first winter with the Rover - do colder temps cause idle/carb changes?

I've noticed that at least part of the revving I hear is the clutch. Once depressed, there is a whine that is close enough in pitch to the idle rev. No problems shifting or starting, doesnt feel like the clutch is going and suspect it is coincidental with the idle problem, but it is there.

Any suggestions about either - I have to say, the Rover is running well and I'm content to leave well enough alone - but if there is some kind of climate related maintenance I need to do then I'll be all over it.

Thanks!

[Nium]

check points adjustment

[rbonnett]

I can't say about the clutch noise, but I had a lot of the same engine speed problems. Idle all over the place, dieseling. It seemed loosely related to engine temp. I was thinking along the lines of my carb. I was constantly fiddling with the choke trying to find the right setting as my temp gauge went up and down.

Turned out to be timing. Once that was sorted out - ask Jeff or Greg about that adventure - all those symptoms vanished.

[Jeff Aronson]

Nick, what carb is in your Rover - Weber, Zenith, Solex? In all cases, the carb body needs to be bolted tightly to the intake manifold, and the intake/exhaust manifold need to be tightly bolted to the head. So when the car is running, spray some WD 40 or PB Blaster along the base of the carb and around then intake manifold when the car is running cold [no choke, however]. If the rpm change, then there's a vacuum leak, so take care of that first.

There's nothing in the Weber or Solex that would make the idle change just because the weather is hot or cold. The Zenith can take a little warp in the top cover - there's a sticky on the Forum about working on the Zenith carb - which can induce a vacuum leak.

No matter which carb you have, a Series Rover idle is usually set quite low. If it is set too high, you will get dieseling when it shuts down. But once it is set, it should be the same regardless of outside temperature.

If the car is running with a high idle, it will seem to rev up a bit when you depress the clutch because the Rover engine is a low rpm engine in general. But I would also wonder if you have your throttle cable properly set. The return spring on the carb should close the throttle setting when your foot is off the accelerator. Perhaps it is set too tight, keeping the throttle open when you think it's closed?

Rick is right; most of the time running issues are really ignition related, not carb related. Check your points gap first and make certain it is correct. Then borrow or buy a timing light and find the timing notch on the inner rim of the crankcase pulley. Scratch it or paint it to highlight it for your timing light. Loosen the clamp nut or bolt underneath the distributor, turn the distributor as necessary to set the timing. Most of the time, changing an inaccurate timing will smooth out the engine at idle; you'll see and hear the difference.

Running the car with the timing too advanced will create a high idle and cause dieseling after a run because the car is running too hot. It will make it a hard start when warm, too, without the choke. But first check that there's no vacuum leak, then check the points gap, and then check the timing. Take it step by step so you don't change what is working well.

When you depress the clutch, you will get a sllight noise from the throwout bearing, which will sound like a whine. It will be a loud whine as the bearing starts to fail. but if the clutch is still operating fine, then you should be ok.

I don't know if this really answers your questions, but keep providing detail so the more skilled Forum members can respond effectively.

Good luck,

Jeff