Land Rover Series III stuck in gear

[cetesse]

Hi All,

I have a 1982 Land Rover Series III 109 Petrol that i got stuck in the snow today. We got about 3ft here in Virginia and i was stuck in about a foot or so.

While trying to rock her back and forth to free itself, something happened. I was going from R to 1st, etc...

Now when I release the clutch it dies. The gear selector seems to get stuck in Reverse.

I can shift the transfer case around and if I let it die I can get the gear out of reverse (sometimes).

I can occasionally get it into a front gear and move an inch forward or so.

But something doesn't seem right. I tried removing the gear selector floor covering but the former owner glued it down (tips on removing the glue)?

Any suggestions or thoughts?

Thank you,
Chris

[rovertek]

on ser 3's they have a nylon bush around the shift ball(lower end of shifter)its most likely broken which allowed it to be forced into 2 gears at once,remove shifter then put all 3 selector slides into nuetral position and repair shift ball, i weld a bead around it then grind it smooth and round,or the older shifters did not have the nylon piece.....

[BackInA88]

Aren't there pins between the shift fork shafts that fall into notches.
To only allow one shift fork at a time to move to prevent this from happening.

[SafeAirOne]

Aren't there pins between the shift fork shafts that fall into notches.
To only allow one shift fork at a time to move to prevent this from happening.

Yeah, the way the detents and center balls (it's relally more of a tiny rod) work, it SHOULD only allow 1 gear to be selected at a time. See arrows in photo:



The only time my SIII transmission got jammed in a gear and locked up the entire driveline was when the tabs on the locking washer broke off and the spline nut (on the rear of the transmssion behind the PTO coverplate) backed off and jammed up against the pto cover while I was reversing out of my driveway. It was the same symptoms you describe.

This is easy to check by popping off the center under-seat hatch and removing the cover plate on the rear of the transmission and having a peek. Here's what it SHOULDN'T look like:

[galen216]

This happened to me in the exact same manner (rocking it back and forth), in my case there is a little plate with springs to keep you from hitting reverse to fast. One of those springs popped off and jammed in the shifting rods. Once I pulled the floor boards off it was a 5 minute fix.

Hope your problem is the same!

[cetesse]

This happened to me in the exact same manner (rocking it back and forth), in my case there is a little plate with springs to keep you from hitting reverse to fast. One of those springs popped off and jammed in the shifting rods. Once I pulled the floor boards off it was a 5 minute fix.

Hope your problem is the same!

Hi All,

Thank you for the suggestions. The floor board cover is heavily glued on and I couldn't really work it free out in the wild!

But I was able to move the yellow lever access panel, get a long screw driver in there, and I think I popped the selector back into the right place.

Next step, after 12 more inches of snow hitting the Washington area right now, is to take the floor cover out as well as examine the access panel for as mentioned below for the lock nut.

An update as I know,

Thanks again,
Chris

[SafeAirOne]

Can you soften the glue up with a heat gun?

Nothing like having a previous owner negate some of the best engineering that went into producing a series rover.

[cetesse]

Yeah, the way the detents and center balls (it's relally more of a tiny rod) work, it SHOULD only allow 1 gear to be selected at a time. See arrows in photo:



The only time my SIII transmission got jammed in a gear and locked up the entire driveline was when the tabs on the locking washer broke off and the spline nut (on the rear of the transmssion behind the PTO coverplate) backed off and jammed up against the pto cover while I was reversing out of my driveway. It was the same symptoms you describe.

This is easy to check by popping off the center under-seat hatch and removing the cover plate on the rear of the transmission and having a peek. Here's what it SHOULDN'T look like:

Hi Mark,

I think i have the same locking washer tabs broken off and the spline nut (on the rear of the transmssion behind the PTO coverplate) backed off and jammed up against the pto cover.

Is this in easy fix with the transmission still in vehicle?

I'm assuming I can just remove the PTO coverplate and fix the issue and put a new locking washer on?

THank you,
Chris

[SafeAirOne]

Is this in easy fix with the transmission still in vehicle?

I'm assuming I can just remove the PTO coverplate and fix the issue and put a new locking washer on?

Yup. Just remove the PTO cover, yank the spline nut and the locking washer off. Try to recover the broken tabs.

NOTE: I didn't put too much torque on mine when it bound up, but the spline nut STILL got so jammed up against the PTO cover plate that the spline nut actually crimped down a bit, rendering it non-reusable.

So, if this is your issue, I'd recommend getting a new locking washer, and a new nut. The special socket used to tighten this nut couldn't hurt either. I suspect that my weakened locking tabs may have been the result of using a hammer and a punch to tighten the nut several years back. It may not have been the whole cause, but I think it contributed to the failure.

Note that the tabs that broke off of mine were the two that faced forward and engaged the slots on the mainshaft gear and not ones that engaged the splines on the nut.

[cetesse]

Yup. Just remove the PTO cover, yank the spline nut and the locking washer off. Try to recover the broken tabs.

NOTE: I didn't put too much torque on mine when it bound up, but the spline nut STILL got so jammed up against the PTO cover plate that the spline nut actually crimped down a bit, rendering it non-reusable.

So, if this is your issue, I'd recommend getting a new locking washer, and a new nut. The special socket used to tighten this nut couldn't hurt either. I suspect that my weakened locking tabs may have been the result of using a hammer and a punch to tighten the nut several years back. It may not have been the whole cause, but I think it contributed to the failure.

Note that the tabs that broke off of mine were the two that faced forward and engaged the slots on the mainshaft gear and not ones that engaged the splines on the nut.

Mark,

Thanks. Mine looks almost identical and will take your advice and order the main nut as well. Pictures of mine here: http://gallery.me.com/christopherete...&bgcolor=black

In terms of putting the PTO cover back on, anything special recommended in terms of a liquid gasket or doesn't in need a gasket?

Thank you,
Chris

[SafeAirOne]

In terms of putting the PTO cover back on, anything special recommended in terms of a liquid gasket or doesn't in need a gasket?

It needs a gasket, available wherever you get the nut and washer.

[cetesse]

Hi,

Am still working to remove the main shaft nut, it was really beat up. I've got the transmission in first, but am still not having any luck unlocking it.

Just to be clear, its a traditional clock-wise to tighten thread right?

Thank you,
Chris

[SafeAirOne]

Yup--Anti-clockwise to remove it. Mine got really crimped down when it was driven into the rear cover. You'll probably have to drift it off, unless you have the special socket.

[cetesse]

Hi Mark,

I have the tool from Rovers North, but it appears to be damaging the tool more then helping get it off.

Sorry, what does "drift it off" mean?

Chris

[SafeAirOne]

Get a drift (a punch with a flat tip, not pointed) and try to beat the nut off in the anti-clockwise direction using your favorite hammer. I presume that the splines on the nut are REALLY messed up--You really can't do any major damage to the special socket if it is fully engaged in the nut.