Who Does Dip Stripping?

[amcordo]

An odd question, but I'm not sure what to search for... I'm looking for a company that will dip strip my bulkhead before galvanizing only $350 to galvanize here in Columbus. Woo.). What type of industry usually does this? "dip strip" doesn't return results on google maps, and "paint stripping" returns 10,000 (of which probably five do what I want and the rest strip paint off houses). Any suggestions? Thanks!

[jac04]

What exactly are you trying to do, just remove paint, or do you want rust removed? You may want to check with the galvanizer. CT Galvanizing does not require removal of paint because they perform a caustic strip as a first step on their parts. They did tell me that any rust should be removed. If that's what you want, look for an acid dip - like this: http://www.metaldipping.com/aboutus.php

$350 seems steep to just do a bulkhead. IIRC, CT Galvanizing was $200 up to 500 lbs of parts back when you could get them to do Rover parts.

[amcordo]

What exactly are you trying to do, just remove paint, or do you want rust removed? You may want to check with the galvanizer. CT Galvanizing does not require removal of paint because they perform a caustic strip as a first step on their parts. They did tell me that any rust should be removed. If that's what you want, look for an acid dip - like this: http://www.metaldipping.com/aboutus.php

$350 seems steep to just do a bulkhead. IIRC, CT Galvanizing was $200 up to 500 lbs of parts back when you could get them to do Rover parts.


Right you are - $350 was for the frame (should have looked closer). He didn't mention the price for the bulkhead in the email...

I need to ask him if it needs to be stripped first if there's no rust - I think he was assuming it would be rusty (usually true).

[Broadstone]

It needs to be media blasted first and make sure all repairs are done and reblast if needed before you think of galvanizing. I picked my bulkhead up from the blaster at 6:00PM and my wife had it at the galvanizer at 6:00AM the next day and before galvy they acid dipped. With the breakfast and bunch of other stuff was only $200. Also it is important to make sure the inside of any chassis is properly prepped like the outside before galvanizing.

[jac04]

Broadstone-
What galvanizer did you use? It's my understanding that CT Galvanizing in east Hartford no longer does Rover parts.

[amcordo]

It needs to be media blasted first and make sure all repairs are done and reblast if needed before you think of galvanizing. I picked my bulkhead up from the blaster at 6:00PM and my wife had it at the galvanizer at 6:00AM the next day and before galvy they acid dipped. With the breakfast and bunch of other stuff was only $200. Also it is important to make sure the inside of any chassis is properly prepped like the outside before galvanizing.


Hi Broadstone!

Thanks! So back to my original question... what type of business does media blasting? I'm trying to figure out how to find a place that does it. Thanks!

[thixon]

www.americanmetalcleaning.us

One in Toledo, one in Cincinnati. This is for the chem strip option.

As for the blasting option, just google something like "media blasting in ohio." I tried this and got a ton of options. Found a bunch of guys that did mobile soda blasting which is all the rage right now.

If it were me, I'd go ahead and get it chem dipped if you can, since you plan to galvanize it.

[thixon]

http://www.decoating.com/contact.html

Here's another.

[amcordo]

Thanks for the advice. I'll check out those options.

[redmondrover]

We used the American Metal Cleaning location in Portland, OR to strip our bulkhead, core support, side steps, T-posts and a couple of other small parts. Total cost was $625. The T-posts were brand new and it took two passes to remove the electrostatic paint. We discovered rust damage on the core support and bulkhead that we did not know about. Took about 20 days to get everything back from them.

[Broadstone]

Many places media blast with many different medias (sand is not always the best material). It should not be hard to find someone local.

Jac04 PM sent!

[crankin]

In Columbus, stay away from Whispers Cabaret. They do a horrible job at Dip Stripping.

[crankin]

Missed ya, amcordo! :D

[amcordo]

Good to see you too Clint.

[amcordo]

Hi!

Are the door frame assemblies completely steel (aside from the rivets)? I put a magnet to them and I think so... Has anyone galvanized them?

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-2592-sideframe-109110-sw-rh.aspx

[crankin]

Yes. They are steel.
When I was having all my stuff galvanized, I thought about throwing the door frames in as well. But then I started talking to the guy who was doing the job and he felt that it might warp and also leave some rough edges that might poke through the skin. I also thought about the galvanizing filling up the draining holes. But I am sure you could do it.

[Jim-ME]

I've seen some door frames that Matt Browne has had done and Ike Goss has done some as well. Maybe one of them will chime in with recommendations.
Jim

[amcordo]

Yes. They are steel.
When I was having all my stuff galvanized, I thought about throwing the door frames in as well. But then I started talking to the guy who was doing the job and he felt that it might warp and also leave some rough edges that might poke through the skin. I also thought about the galvanizing filling up the draining holes. But I am sure you could do it.



Mine have some rust developing along the bottom - I thought it might be prudent to do them. But they're very thing steel just like the bulkhead so you're probably right on the warping action. Hm. What to do, what to do....

[TedW]

Hi!

Are the door frame assemblies completely steel (aside from the rivets)? I put a magnet to them and I think so... Has anyone galvanized them?

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-2592-sideframe-109110-sw-rh.aspx

Ray Wood (of roverdrive fame) tried to source doors with galvanized frames, but dropped the project because wasn't happy with the first batch he got from his supplier. Too bad - what a great idea!

IIRC Series 1 doors had galvanized frames. Is this correct?

[amcordo]

I think you're talking about the frames inside the door, rather than the doorframe I'm talking about. But I wish those were galvanized too...

[amcordo]

and also leave some rough edges that might poke through the skin.


Is there aluminum skin on these doorframes? I'm talking about these just for clarification: http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-2592-sideframe-109110-sw-rh.aspx

[TedW]

I think you're talking about the frames inside the door, rather than the doorframe I'm talking about. But I wish those were galvanized too...

You're right. I need tp pay more attention...........

[crankin]

Is there aluminum skin on these doorframes? I'm talking about these just for clarification: http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-2592-sideframe-109110-sw-rh.aspx


Not sure...mine is SWB.

[greenmeanie]

I did my T-posts and had no problems.

[Broadstone]

New defenders have all steel doors, not the aluminum clad on steel frame. Wonder if its possible to galvy the whole thing without too much damage? Any body done it?

[amcordo]

I did my T-posts and had no problems.


do they come apart? I see that they have rivets going into the back of them. Wasn't sure what it looks like when it's taken out of the vehicle...

[junkyddog11]

New defenders have all steel doors, not the aluminum clad on steel frame. Wonder if its possible to galvy the whole thing without too much damage? Any body done it?

the new defender doors and skins are galvanized......at least the ones I have seen are.

[junkyddog11]

I've seen some door frames that Matt Browne has had done and Ike Goss has done some as well. Maybe one of them will chime in with recommendations.
Jim

Door frames are not hard. You need to pull the skin off first. New skins are available. I have not had any issues with warping at all.

Galvanizing the "T" posts ....or "frames" that you refer to are not an issue at all.

Roll up Defender doors are another story as are station wagon rear doors, but still possible. Just need allot of patience and the ability to hold ones lips just right for long periods of time.

[ScottT]

I shot J.P. Weigle's bicycle frame saver rust inhibitor (http://www.amazon.com/Weigles-bicycle-frame-saver-inhibitor/dp/B0012GO58Y) on the inside of my frames 6-8 years ago and they clean and hole free.