Starter spinning but not engaging well

[NickDawson]

So yesterday I started looking for CB radios... just feels like a nice thing to have for off roading.

You all probably know my theory that my truck senses when I am about to do something cosmetic or related to creature comforts. Well when I went to drive to the gym this morning I turned the key, the started cranked a few times like normal and then it sounded as though it was just spinning. I heard the whrrrrr but not the chug-chug that sounds like the engine turning over. I backed off the key and tried again and it started right up.

After leaving the gym the symptoms were the same but lasted much longer. It really sounds like something spinning but not engaging.

Some may recall my ignition issues over the summer - there were times that I'd crank the starter for 30 seconds - 1 minute at a time. Any chance I have burned it out?

Before I get into hard core diagnostic work, could this be related to my adjusting the timing this weekend? It really seems to be running well with the ever so light retarding that I did, I can't imagine its so far off that it would manifest this way - particularly with the sound.

[4flattires]

Timing related? Nah.

Starter have two major processes going on:

1. Rotation of the armature (windings)
2. Engagement of the starter drive (to the flywheel).

The action all happens when the the starter rotation throws the starter drive (gear) out to the flywheel. When the gears dont engage, the starter just whirls, and no smoke comes out the tail pipe.

The starter drive has a spring, and a one way ratcheting mechanism. Sounds like your starter drive may be worn/gummed up, or (worse yet), you have a section of teeth missing from the flywheel (rare).

Pull and inspect.

Jeff

[bmohan55]

Every couple of months I have to take my starter out and clean up the spring and drive gear, especially after mudding it. I think junk get in through the drain hole in the flywheel housing and gums up the shaft that the drive gear slides on. Do not use oil on it as it would just attract more gunk, I use a citrus based cleaning solvent that my good friends here at the plant supply me with.

BTW, you really don't have to pull the starter all the way out to expose and clean the shaft (see other thread on pulling starter). Also be careful when disconnecting the power to it, use two wrenches, one to remove the nut and one to prevent the bolt from turning inside of the starter...bad things can happen if it does. Of course disconnect the battery first!

[kevkon]

Your starter solenoid is probably bad.

[Terrys]

As others have said, your starter shaft probaly has congealed oil on it. Take it off and spray it off with carb & choke cleaner. If you have a leaky rear main seal, this will contribute to it, and it's always worse in winter (ask me how I know, hand cranking every cold morning till I had time to pull it and clean it)
It's definately not your solenoid.

[4flattires]

Your starter solenoid is probably bad.

I would agree with this if it was an integral mounted solenoid, like a GM. Being that the starter is spinning, the Rover solenoid has done its job.

Jeff

[NickDawson]

Thanks guys!
Looks like yet another crash course in mechanics :/
On the way home tonight things got really wacky... My old nemesis the idle issue reappeared.
Some may recall back in the summer I had an issue where if took my foot off the gas at all it stalled out. Well, thats back. Last time it was the idle fuel cut off solenoid....I'll have to check it. I have the timing set exactly back where it was before this weekend, so I think I can rule that out.

Oh, any my heat appears to be broken - suspect the fan.

I love my rover... I love my rover... I love my rover... I love my rover... I love my rover... If I keep saying it then I'll believe it, right?

[kevkon]

If the starter is turning and not engaging the flywheel, it's either a bad solenoid or no teeth.

[Richard]

If the starter is turning and not engaging the flywheel, it's either a bad solenoid or no teeth.

I think KevKon is talking about a non-rover starter.

Like others have said, when my starter motor spins but doesn't engage, it is because the shaft is gummed up. The gear just spins on the base of the shaft and doesn't get flung up the helix to the end - where it would mesh with the teeth on the flywheel.

-Richard

[brucejohn]

I love my rover... I love my rover... I love my rover... I love my rover... I love my rover...

Hang in there Nick. YOU are one of the reasons I kept going. Within a month of bringing my first rover home last summer I discovered serious chassis cancer. My better half was nonplussed. My parents were sure I could have run down the street dropping hundred dollars bills and saved money -they may have been right =), but never mind them. It was posts like your search and subsequent success over adversity that showed me the best of this forum convincing me I could replace or repair the chassis and refurbish her to smooth running condition with the help of all the knowledge available here.

These trucks are tinker toys and you already understand more about mechanical things than you think. If it can be repaired in the bush, you can do it in suburbia. Just focus on that smile you get when you drive her away from the curb leaving mediocrity behind. :thumb-up:


I love my rover... I love my rover... I love my rover... I love my rover... I love my rover...

[4flattires]

This prior post seems appropriate:


:D
She’s leaky and she’s squeaky
At speed she’s rather freaky
You’ll bust your knuckles weekly
It’s a Series Land Rover

Da Da Da Da click click (that’s the starter not starting)
Da Da Da Da click click (that’s the valves tapping)
Da Da Da Da
Da Da Da Da
Da Da Da Da click click (That’s the gears stripping)



Now....betcha hum that tune for at least an hour!

Jeff

[I Leak Oil]

If the starter is turning and not engaging the flywheel, it's either a bad solenoid or no teeth.

Or a bendix that is stuck as others have suggested. This is a very common issue with the lucas starter. At some point, nearly all of them do it.

[NickDawson]

Now....betcha hum that tune for at least an hour!

Jeff

Funny thing is, I was humming that all way home last night!



These trucks are tinker toys and you already understand more about mechanical things than you think. If it can be repaired in the bush, you can do it in suburbia. Just focus on that smile you get when you drive her away from the curb leaving mediocrity behind. :thumb-up:

Great point - thanks for the encouragement!

Hopefully I'll get a chance this week to check out the starter and hopefully it will be an easy fix.
Not sure about the idle cut off and lack of heat though...one step at a time

[NickDawson]

Alright! I'm back at it... I spent most of March not thinking about the Rover (b/c I was busy skiing - seriously rough life I tell you).

Its going to be a nice weekend here and I've enlisted some help to tackle a few Rover projects including the starter. I took a crack at it a few weeks ago and discovered that I don't have a wrench or socket that fits the two bolts to get it out - anyone have a clue what size they are? I have pretty complete sets of each.

I'm a little confused about this idea of not having to take it all the way out. I suppose that will become clear once we get into it, but can anyone elaborate? Can I simply un-do the two bolts, pull it out part way and start cleaning? Is that the basic idea? If I do have to remove it completely it looks like it means removing the exhaust... I'm 99% sure if I do that, there will be many massive other problems that result from the rusty bolts involved.

Thanks all!
-N

quick edit to add - just found Mohan's thread here: http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5715&highlight=starter+spin
Sounds like the plan of attack is pretty straight forward as described above. Regarding the suggestion of graphite - yes or no?
To echo the quote
this is why I didn't hesitate on buying this truck despite my limited mechanical experiance..simple vechicle and wealth of support!
Reply With Quote - could not agree more!

[Rineheitzgabot]

I'm with Jeff.

The shaft/gear/spring assembly probably needs lubed.

I recently had a thread related to starters as well. You are probably correct, the exhaust may interfere with removing it all the way, but as someone suggested, just remove the two bolts that hold the starter, and pull it out as far as it goes. This will give you access to where all the areas that need lubed are.

It will be a 1/2" wrench/socket, needed to do this. One bolt is accessed from above, and one from below. These are studs that hold on the starter, not bolts, FYI. Once the drive gear and shaft are exposed, lube the hell out of it, and perhaps try scrubbing with a soft toothbrush if it is gummed up. Once lubed, spin the gear on the shaft until it moves freely. This really is not hard. You can do this yourself. After removing the nuts from the studs, the whole process should take no longer than 10 minutes. I excluded the nuts in the time, because there's no telling what shape they are in, and if you have long enough extensions, to make removing them expediant. Also, if it is like mine, you screw the nuts off most of the way, to a point where the nut binds up on the stud, then the studs start unscrewing, which just adds more time, but no big deal.

I am not an expert on lubricants, but I am not sure what happens when mixing a dry lubricant with a wet one (assuming that the drive gear already has residual oil on it). I would probably stick with wet lube. Just me.

Hope this helps.
Gary

[NickDawson]

Ok gang - we're in the thick of it. I've enlisted the help of my old man, combined we have a full 6 months of mechanical experience :D

So Im reminded again that this is a 2.5L engine (and also reminded of the suggestions about not buying a UK import...)

The starter is clearly aftermarket, and we were able to get the 10mm bolts off the studs no problem. Once we got the starter off, it was unclear what needed cleaning.

The armature sits in a sleeve of magnets, so we cleaned that sleeve out and cleaned the armature well. On the end of the armature is a small gear that turns 3 nested gears where the starter mates to the engine - we cleaned all of that well.

After reassembly when I turn the key, we get a loud, rapid clicking. If you put your hand on the starter, you can feel its doing something...but nothing is turning over, and there's no whrrrr sound at all.

Anyone have any ideas?

On a related note - if we wanted to - could we buy a replacement at an autoparts store? Enjoying the tinkering right now, but Monday is street cleaning and I dont want to get towed if we can't get it running.

[4flattires]

Let's start with a pic of your starter. Even if you have to grab a pic from the internet (should you not have a camera). That will help us formulate some solid next steps.

If you have a camera, please post detailed pics of whatever state the starter is in. Brushes, gears, thing-a-ma-jigs...etc.


...I dont want to get towed if we can't get it running.

Fear not. Push, pull, tug or tow to start. You don't need no stinkin' starter.

[NickDawson]

OK, we sang Mohan's song the whole time and it helped...kinda!
After re-fitting the starter a few times, we are back where we started (pun? no!) ...picutures soon. Its still doing a whrrrr but its anecdotally 25% improved. My old man is of the opinion that the solenoid is responsible for 'kicking the gears out' - so does the starter work by electomagnet force pushing the armature into the gears, or does the solenoid push the gears into the stater?

Either way, its more reliable....

Onto shocks - some may remember that I ripped a shock apart when I drove the rover 3 hours to Lynchburg (home of said old man) and we took it out on some trails... we started the process today or replacing the shocks and after acquiring a new angle grinder discovered that we could drill out the rusted cotter pin (see previous threads...no, on second thought, dont). Long story short, is there a right or wrong way to fit those bushings? They appear to be directional...we went with blunt side into eye of shock...right?

tomorrow is removal of hard top, fitting of soft top (our first father/son endeavor circa one year go, we're old hat!) ... oil change, diff oil change, and the other 3 shocks... should not take more than an hour, right?

right?

one hour?


also, any ideas about a new stater for a 2.5L?

[4flattires]

My old man is of the opinion that the solenoid is responsible for 'kicking the gears out' - so does the starter work by electomagnet force pushing the armature into the gears, or does the solenoid push the gears into the stater?

http://image.highperformancepontiac.com/f/25723778+w750+st0/hppp_0912_05_z+hi_torque_mini_starter+cross_sectio nal_diagram.jpg

Your armature rotates, and only rotates. It's job is then done. In the absence of a pic of your starter, I am making a WAG that you have this style, and YES, the plunger noted in this pic pushes the starter drive from its previous sleepy state into an engagement position through the shock and awe of 'lectricity (ok....electro-magnetism makes it move).

I'll let others have a say in the bushing drama. I'm done for the day.


... oil change, diff oil change, and the other 3 shocks... should not take more than an hour, right?

right?

one hour?


Is there beer involved? Whoops...my bad.

How much beer is involved?

[NickDawson]

Thanks 4flattires, that pic helps a lot. We also found a great clip on YouTube about how starters work.
It looks like this one is a little different
http://www.flickr.com/photos/nickdawson/tags/starterrhd1/

On the end of the armature is a little gear that mates with a series of 3 other little gears to turn one bigger outer gear - sorry, can't get a pic of that to save my life. What I'm wondering is what is on the other side of all of that - the part that mates with the engine itself (is that the fly wheel?) - if that were missing teeth or gummed up, it would explain the whrrr

Regardless, our cleaning resulted in about a 25% improvement in reliability...

[4flattires]

This is what you have, with an internal (built in) solenoid. If your satisfied with the performance, then enjoy.

If the starter comes out again, I would encourage you to view the condition of the flywheel ring gear, by using a large pry bar/screw driver to rotate the engine and evaluate the condition of the ring gear teeth. The starter drive engages these teeth and that's what makes noise when you start the vehicle.

[NickDawson]

This is what you have, with an internal (built in) solenoid. If your satisfied with the performance, then enjoy.
.
Thanks - well, right now it won't start at all...so satisfied I am not.

Anyone know about my replacement options for a 2.5L engine? Still wondering if there is something I can pick up in town easily. I'll check with our hosts as well.

Thanks all!

[SafeAirOne]

Anyone know about my replacement options for a 2.5L engine?

Presumably you mean the starter....

If so, just take it to your local auto electric shop. Every village has one. They can probably fix it for a lot less than you can get a new one for.

[NickDawson]

Ok ... Wow that was hard... not the most time consuming that I;ve done, but maybe the hardest or most involved....
I decided tonight to tackle the starter once again. I was able to reach the bottom bolt with no issues. The top was, well, a challenge. On the 2.5L engine it is physically impossible to reach that top bolt wihtout a worm hole or at least a degree in partical physics.

So I dropped the exhause just south of the manafold and then again just past the middle cross member. After that, I used the force to find the top bolt and 2 hours later had the starter out.

as you can see from these pics, the teeth are not in great shape at all.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/nickdawson/sets/72157623667198887/

Thats got me worried. They arent great pics but clearly the ends of the teeth (if you are looking straight on at the bendix). I still cleaned it up with degreaser and a tooth brush .... another hour later when I got everything back in place, I was surprised that it started up pretty well!

I'd call it a 80% increase in preformance. 8 out of 10 times it fired up in 1 second... 2 of those time I had a bit of a whrrrrr and then it started in no more than 3 seconds. Improvement!

Its usually much harder to start once its warm and since I lost daylight before I could get the exhaust totally sealed tight, I'll have to finish up and test tomorrow.


So the question of the day is: can I get a replacement gear for a starter for a 2.5L engine? Wouild it be the same as the regular series III engine? Anyone think I could find a local shop that could rebuild it, gear and all?

Thanks again for the support on this thead folks! Im learning more each day!

[SafeAirOne]

It's hard to tell for sure by looking at your pics, but it for the most part looks like a standard 2.5 starter, just like the one on my diesel. Everything you ever wanted and needed to know about this starter can be found here (http://baxters.com.au/HTML/Images/Valeo Starters.pdf). It's Valeo starter number 232574, which can be cross-referenced to a dozens of other mfgr's part numbers at the bottom of this page here (http://www.remanufacturers.co.uk/prod-xf/detail.asp?imer=ST0270).

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4499108146_e81366bd8c_o.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4041/4499108064_5ef23624db_o.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4041/4498471623_013cdfeea9_o.jpg

[SafeAirOne]

Disregard my last post regarding your starter--The petrol and diesel starters are different and I can't edit the post since it's more than 30 minutes old. The petrol is a 1.4 kilowatt starter whereas the diesel is a 3.1kw unit with different size starter gearwheels.

The correct 2.5 petrol part number is likely to be PRC6613N which cross-references to all these on the bottom of this page (http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/specs.php?item_detail_id=2599&item=66925164).

[NickDawson]

Feel like I have to be nearing the end of this journey - after driving it for the past two days, with it starting better but not perfectly - it died tonight. I went to take the pooch for a ride and the starter turned over once and didn't catch...the 2nd time I heard a snap and now I can hear the starter motor spinning freely... no more whrrrrr just a hummmmm

My best guess is that the last of the teeth on the bendix snapped off.

So my question that I'm still unclear about is: is that a standard size gear of some kind? I appreciate the list that SafeAriOne linked to, but its not clear to me that if I bought an entirely new starter, would it have the right gear on the end? Can I buy just the gear somewhere (and how is it attached? I didn't see a snap ring or anything). I'm open to the idea of a new or rebuilt starter too, particularly trying to find a starter shop in town - is it reasonable to think they'd be able to match the teeth?

Finally, what about the fragments that sheered off? How bad is it to have them floating around the engine?

[SafeAirOne]

My best guess is that the last of the teeth on the bendix snapped off.

- is it reasonable to think they'd be able to match the teeth?

Finally, what about the fragments that sheered off? How bad is it to have them floating around the engine?

I'd actually remove the starter and look to see what happened. I'd be surprised if the teeth that engage the flywheel broke off as you are suggesting (I think), therefore, there shouldn't be anything floating around in the engine (they would be floating around in the bottom of the bellhousing anyway, not internally in the engine.

I could do the research using the links I provided earlier, but a decent automotive electrical shop will have the geartooth count, pitch and size readily available.

The way you describe it, it sounds as if the starter motor works perfectly fine, but the mechanism that throws the starter gear out and engages it isn't functioning properly.

Take it apart and see what's wrong in there--you ain't gonna make it any more broken!

[NickDawson]

Take it apart and see what's wrong in there--you ain't gonna make it any more broken!

Thanks mark! I'll give it a shot this weekend and see what turns up. As always, I am grateful for the help.... Looking forward to the time when I can start to repay this group

[NickDawson]

So...I could be wrong...but think I found the problem
:/
How ugly is that?!?!
I've called around town and can't find a replacement starter but have some leads on repair shops that will be open on Monday.
Anyone think the local napa would have something? I'm willing to go for a new one at this point :D

I guess one question is whether or not those reduction gears were the primary problem or the result of me tinkering a few weeks ago? Before I found this mess, I did connect the starter right to the battery, the solenoid is kicking the bendix gear out properly.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2685/4507530101_c34d720b71.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4004/4508168052_264aa15392_b.jpg

[NickDawson]

One more - just a though, how long did rover use the same design? Anyone think this part from Napa might work? Its for a 90-95 defender, which is what I often search on since they typically dont have series stuff in their DB.... when was the 2.5L petrol engine sold through? Clearly that says its for the V8 engine - just not sure how universal these things are?

Starter - Remfd - Standard
Product Line: NAPA Power Premium Plus
Part Number: RAY 2446861

Application Information: 1995 Land Rover Defender
Engines : 3.9 L 3947 CC V8
Engines : 3.9 L 3947 CC V8
Comments: Bosch Type;w/ 1.7 Kilowatt Starter;Optional
Per Car Qty: 1

Engines : 4.0 L 3950 CC V8
Comments: Bosch Type;w/ 1.7 Kilowatt Starter;Optional
Per Car Qty: 1

[kevkon]

Why don't you just ask our hosts and save yourself a headache?

[SafeAirOne]

So...I could be wrong...but think I found the problem
:/
How ugly is that?!?!

Very.



I'm willing to go for a new one at this point :D

You haven't preiced one yet, have you?


I guess one question is whether or not those reduction gears were the primary problem or the result of me tinkering a few weeks ago?

I'm sure your earlier tinkering had nothing to do with it. You just need a couple of gears--I'd check around to different places on the cost of a replacement starter, then bring it to your local auto electric place and see what they say. I can't remember if there's a starter dog on the crank of the 2.5P (my diesel doesn't have one), but if you do have one, I'd get a hand crank too.

[NickDawson]

Why don't you just ask our hosts and save yourself a headache?

$700 new / $500 for a rebuild...

My local shop has a line on a new one for $275 and thinks they might be able to rebuild mine...the only problem is time...going to be weeks. Although this truck has only really run about 20% of the time I've had it, so whats another few weeks :/ Might decide their price for a new one is worth the cost.

Sorry, needed to vent some frustrations...

[bmohan55]

[QUOTE=NickDawson;50179]$700 new / $500 for a rebuild...

...Although this truck has only really run about 20% of the time I've had it.....

Thats about right for us newbies. From what I have observed, it takes a few years for driving time to at least equal wrenching time. You don't become a Series owner by writing a check.

...so whats another few weeks...
It will give you time to plan your "frame-off"!:D

Keep the faith!

[daveb]

Dude, pick up the phone and order one from england. it is really that simple.




$700 new / $500 for a rebuild...

My local shop has a line on a new one for $275 and thinks they might be able to rebuild mine...the only problem is time...going to be weeks. Although this truck has only really run about 20% of the time I've had it, so whats another few weeks :/ Might decide their price for a new one is worth the cost.

Sorry, needed to vent some frustrations...

[stomper]

Dude, pick up the phone and order one from england. it is really that simple.

and while you are at it, you could also order up some other cool bits that you have been looking at, to justify the shipping. :thumb-up:

[NickDawson]

Dude, pick up the phone and order one from england. it is really that simple.

No opposed to this idea at all - anyone have tips on suppliers in the UK?
I'll start googling today....

In the mean time, do I lose man points if I just sit in the truck and wheep softly as I nurse a beer? :)

[SafeAirOne]

No opposed to this idea at all - anyone have tips on suppliers in the UK?
I'll start googling today....

In the mean time, do I lose man points if I just sit in the truck and wheep softly as I nurse a beer? :)

Well...I'd stay away from any supplier of BritPart stuff. And no, no man points are lost--I've been doing it for the last 4 months! The weeping turns to wailing when I get my rover-related credit card bill every month. ;)

[scott]

No opposed to this idea at all - anyone have tips on suppliers in the UK?
I'll start googling today....

In the mean time, do I lose man points if I just sit in the truck and wheep softly as I nurse a beer? :)

yes you will. you need to man up and get in there, switch on the ign, engage the clutch and have the wife and kids push

[daveb]

[QUOTE=NickDawson;50326]No opposed to this idea at all - anyone have tips on suppliers in the UK?


I've used dingocroft with great success, others have done paddocks and the like. Put down the computer and phone them up. you will get better happier results that way. and for once just try doing something without asking the forum first. next we know you are going to want us to dial for you.

[SafeAirOne]

Ask as many questions as you want...NOT profiting from other Rover owner's mistakes/knowledge gets very expensive very quickly and really doesn't have an impact on your Rover maintenance "learning curve" one way or the other. :thumb-up: I'm certain that there hasn't been a new, unheard-of-by-anyone maintenance issue on a series Rover in the last 40 years!

[LaneRover]

Ask as many questions as you want...NOT profiting from other Rover owner's mistakes/knowledge gets very expensive very quickly and really doesn't have an impact on your Rover maintenance "learning curve" one way or the other. :thumb-up: I'm certain that there hasn't been a new, unheard-of-by-anyone maintenance issue on a series Rover in the last 40 years!

I agree with the ask questions and learn from others!

[NickDawson]

I agree with the ask questions and learn from others!

Thanks gang - I know I post a lot, some of it is just to share the journey. I cannot say enough about how much I appreciate this group!

I've found a lot of UK suppliers - curiously none list the 2.5L Petrol engine - looking forward to calling tomorrow and seeing what I can learn.... now its just a mystery I have to solve.

Makes me wonder...is the stater really different b/t the two engines? I'll report what I learn tomorrow when I call around.

[daveb]

are you sure its a 2.5? What is your engine number?

Lots of people mistake the 2.25 5 bearing for a 2.5.




Thanks gang - I know I post a lot, some of it is just to share the journey. I cannot say enough about how much I appreciate this group!

I've found a lot of UK suppliers - curiously none list the 2.5L Petrol engine - looking forward to calling tomorrow and seeing what I can learn.... now its just a mystery I have to solve.

[SafeAirOne]

are you sure its a 2.5? What is your engine number?

Lots of people mistake the 2.25 5 bearing for a 2.5.


A 2.5 Petrol should be a 17H engine as detailed here (http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/engno.htm)

[NickDawson]

[QUOTE=daveb;50355

I've used dingocroft with great success, [/QUOTE]
Thanks! Rang them up today - $200 later I've got a fancy new starter headed my way. I agree with your earlier hint - that was easy, but if I hadn't asked I never would have found Dingocroft!

Thanks daveb

[Jim-ME]

Nick,
I may be stating something that you already know but when you search for 2.5 L parts to the best of my knowledge, you need to search in the Defender section of the websites. I know this because I have to buy parts for a 2.5 L diesel and that engine was never factory installed in a Series truck.
Jim

[NickDawson]

just a quick update, the new starter arrived on Monday from the UK - not bad, 3 business day shipping!

I was able to slap it in place in 20 minutes and the rover runs again!

I was going to leave out the fact that I shorted it out at one point and thought I had destroyed the entire electrical system...but thought it too humorous to omit.

One more question - when re-attaching the exhaust to the manifold, do I need any kind of sealant? There doesn't appear to be any reside on it now, just don't want to create a dangerous leak.

[4flattires]

I was able to slap it in place in 20 minutes and the rover runs again!

Great!


I was going to leave out the fact that I shorted it out at one point and thought I had destroyed the entire electrical system...

Hopefully you learned rule #1 about automotive electrical repair. Often preached, rarely practiced and dire results happen when things go bad. Disconnect the battery when working on electrical shi....stuff.


when re-attaching the exhaust to the manifold, do I need any kind of sealant?

No

[NickDawson]

Great!
Hopefully you learned rule #1 about automotive electrical repair. Often preached, rarely practiced and dire results happen when things go bad. Disconnect the battery when working on electrical shi....stuff.


Actually, what I did was even sillier than that... I wired the many (and I need to figure out why there are many) red wires to the top terminal on the solenoid... then I was left with a heavy black cable and thought "thats odd, wonder where that goes? I dont remember it... black usually means negative right? But doesnt this thing ground by being connected to the block? I'll just attach it to the other terminal on the solenoid"...

Of course nothing happened b/c I had disconnected the battery.

As soon as I reconnected the negative on the battery, the starter started spinning at high RPMs ... quick check with the voltage meter and realized that the heavy black cable was in fact the hot lead from the positive side of the battery.

live and learn, right?

[SafeAirOne]

Yeah, that big terminal on the starter is the primary electircal distribution point for the entire vehicle. Can't get more juice in one spot than there!

Nice job!:thumb-up: