Eastwood Metal Ready

[JackIIA]

I've used Eastwood Marine Clean in conjunction with their Metal Ready product in the past. For those unfamiliar with this stuff, it dissolves rust and also provides a protective coating so you don't have to hurry and prime it.

That said, the last couple of times I used it was on stuff I had media blasted weeks before - and thought I'd give a quick treatment out of fear of invisible flash rust.

After using the metal ready, I had a fine film of orange rust all over these media blasted parts when they dried. I ended up media blasting again and painting immediately.

I asked a local autoshop guy and he tells me that this is showing all the rust that media blasting missed, rather than causing the rust to occur. As a reminder, you wash the metal ready off with water after allowing it to penetrate.

I'm not convinced this is the case. I only applied one treatment of MetalReady in each case, so I guess he could be right, and it just needs subsequent cleanings. But then again, he said my welding was very good, so I think his judgement is pretty suspect :p.

Anyone have similar experiences and took a different tack? Would be good to know because with the cold weather, I'd rather just prep everything for spring painting rather than heating up the room for painting. Thanks as always. Jack

[thixon]

JackIIA,

I thought those products were POR-15 products, not eastwood products.

At any rate, I've had similar results with ospho, and eastwood rust converter. IIRC, most of those products address the possibility of flash rust occurring from washing off the resulting film left on the metal after the product dries.

With ospho in particular, I've used it, wiped the film with a wet rag, and forgotten to dry it. The next day, the peice was covered in rust. Had to ospho again.

[JackIIA]

My bad Travis, yes it's a POR15 product.

So are you saying that the flash rust I'm seeing is indeed just a case of not drying it with a hair dryer or something after the final washdown with water? I was under the impression that the metal ready stuff provided a protective coating so you didn't have to worry about it.

[thixon]

Jack IIA,

They're supposed to, but I've had similar results, particularly with ospho. I've always just reapplied, and it took care of itself. Its a bummer to have that happen on parts you're ready to paint though.

I live in GA, so I'm usually waiting till warn weather before I do that kind of work. I always assumed it was due to the high humidity here. After hearing you had trouble too, I'm not so sure.

If you read through the metal ready literature, they mention that as a possible issue if you don't dry it down.

[JimC]

On parts that can take it, I dry them with a blow torch after washing off the metal ready.

[JackIIA]

On parts that can take it, I dry them with a blow torch after washing off the metal ready.


Hadn't thought of that approach. Worth a try. Thanks Jim

[morgant]

All my use of Marine Clean and Metal Ready has been prepping to apply POR-15 before priming & painting over it, so there's no real worry about a minor amount of rust dust. I just make sure it's dusted off before I apply POR-15 (which I tend to do on warm, sunny days since I'm sans garage... watch that POR-15 bubble).

Their documentation says that POR-15 prefers a bit of rust as it'll help it bond better. I'm no expert and my jobs have all been pretty small, but none of them have rusted again (except that one where I couldn't treat the back side of a panel, so guess where the new rust came from).

[JackIIA]

All my use of Marine Clean and Metal Ready has been prepping to apply POR-15 before priming & painting over it, so there's no real worry about a minor amount of rust dust.

I agree on the prep requirements for POR-15. Abit more forgiving than if you're using a normal paint. Great website by the way. I'm assuming the 1980's LR you referenced driving over the gap for, is the one you ended up buying and are now working on.

[morgant]

Great website by the way. I'm assuming the 1980's LR you referenced driving over the gap for, is the one you ended up buying and are now working on.

Thanks. That it is. :)

[amcordo]

What about pouring por15 into door frames? Anyone ever tried doing that? Filling the frame, shaking it, emptying the por 15 out. I'm still struggling with whether I should take the whole door skins off and get the frames galvanized (sounds like a project) or just doing something like the above...

[thixon]

What about pouring por15 into door frames? Anyone ever tried doing that? Filling the frame, shaking it, emptying the por 15 out. I'm still struggling with whether I should take the whole door skins off and get the frames galvanized (sounds like a project) or just doing something like the above...

Removing the door skins is easy. If you want some guidance, let me know.

[luckyjoe]

I use Metal-Ready a lot. Post Metal-Ready, I lightly rinse with distilled water*, and let air dry in the sun. Once dry, the zinc phosphate coating is clearly visible. I have never had an issue of seconday rust, and I've let parts sit for months before painting.

* I have a water softener, which leaves trace sodium in my tap water. This will cause flash rust in record time if used to rinse the metal-ready-treated parts.

[jac04]

What about pouring por15 into door frames? Anyone ever tried doing that? Filling the frame, shaking it, emptying the por 15 out.
I did this with my Lightweight door frames, but I used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I dunked the bottom corners, then used a large syringe to inject the paint into the frames, sloshed around, then emptied them out. A very messy job!