clutch??

[Pete]

Put the truck together a little while back (within 6 months or so). Everything is new and was working fine. Now it won't engage. I checked the fluid, no air in the lines etc and it all seems to check out.

I'm guessing the clutch is frozen to the flywheel. Remind me again of how to try and break a clutch free without pulling the trans? It's in my driveway and I can't really move it around or pull it in the garage.

Pete

[rwollschlager]

I started mine in gear and just drove around on a farm for a while. Eventually when I depressed the pedal the vehicle came to a hault, clutch engaged :thumb-up:

Ive also heard of people driving into a tree and spinning the tires a little bit. But on a rover that just sounds like a good way to break an axle lol

-Rob

[Nium]

Clutch pedal down and turn over the starter with the tranny in 2nd gear. Very lurchy but should break it loose IIRC. The Landy will move too so don't have it aimed at anything but open road :)

[TJR]

Won't engage?..or won't disengage? if its rusted to the PPlate or Flywheel, the clutch is technically engaged.

Jack up the rear axle , tires off the ground and support it on jack stands., block front wheels, Put your LR in 2wd, Start engine w/ you foot on the clutch but trans in 3rd/4th gear high range, rev it up a bit and slam on the brakes keeping your clutch pedal down i.e. pressure plate disengaged. It should break it free,

[Pete]

Tried all the Rover tricks with no success. Looks like it's time to slide the trans back and pull it apart.

[Rover 67]

My Series IIa is still in need of clutch attention. The clutch still works, but is slow to engage.

I hope to replace the master cylinder and hydraulic system without having to move the engine.

Is this possible? Am in the Northern Virginia area. Any suggestions on a mechanic who can do this?

[Nium]

Rover 67, if it's been awhile since the clutch pedal trunion has been lubricated then it may help to lube it up before replacing everything because it can be the source of slow clutch pedal.

The master cylinder and brake hydraulics can be replaced without removing the engine. The slave cylinder does require pulling up the floor boards on the passenger side of the rig (on LHD models would be the drivers's side floor on RHD) to gain access.

[Rover 67]

I will try this

[cgalpin]

How did this go? I need to rebuild my master as it's leaking and I need to double/triple pump to get the clutch to engage. And might as well do the slave too, but read in the repair manual that you have to remove the fender on a LHD to access the master.

[daveb]

it's pretty easy to remove the fender. just annoying when you have persistent problem. If you really object to it you can remove the whole pedal box through the wheel arch if you pull the mudshield out of the way.


How did this go? I need to rebuild my master as it's leaking and I need to double/triple pump to get the clutch to engage. And might as well do the slave too, but read in the repair manual that you have to remove the fender on a LHD to access the master.

[cgalpin]

I'll pull the fender - sounds like way too much effort to fight the tight spaces otherwise.

[Jim-ME]

I found that if you just remove the bolts that attach the fender to the bulkhead after removing the mudguard there is enough slop to easily get the pedal box out of the truck. I also used a set of dial calipers to measure the old MC rod length and installed the new one to that length. I didn't have any adjustment issues. If you are replacing the hardline to the slave just make sure you don't twist your flex line in a knot like I did.
Jim