Adding Tailgate hardware ?

[mrdoiron]

I recently removed the hardtop cap / single door from my 88, and got a new tailgate to go with a soft top, and also got the associated hardware corner plates to connect to the truck bed the Antiluce catch - which in turn latches to the eye on the tailgate when closed...

Problem I have is that the current corner plates on the truck (from when it was a hardtop with a single large door instead of a tailgate) are tacked to the bed with larger style galvanized pop rivots, AND, the existing corner plates are actually overlapped on the top by the beds rear top corner galvanized capping.
So I am trying to understand the best way to remove the rivots/top corner cap & the existing corner brackets, THEN the best method/tools required to rivot back similar rivots for the newer corner cap (now with antiluce catch) and then the top corner cap back...

Anyone have some advice who may have done this ?

(enclosed pic for reference).

appreciated,
mike

[Jim-ME]

When I did my tub swap I replaced the top rear corners with new ones so I had them off anyway. I think you can just carefully drill out the rivets that hold the plate on and then slide the new plate under from the bottom and in. If that doesn't appear to work you will need to take off the corner brackets. I wasn't willing to buy the tools to replace the hammer rivets so I bought sealed Rover pop rivets to put the parts back on. You can buy hammer rivets if you want to keep it looking original. If you search the old posts there is a wealth of information on how to do them.
Jim

[mrdoiron]

great info, thanks alot - I had wondered if I could slide it under the top cap or not... and I'll search for info on the 'hammer rivots' now.

mike

[SafeAirOne]

Basic removal of pop rivets:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7tb6-0Rg2U&feature=related

Solid Rivets:

1) File a flat area on the center of the round rivet head

2) Using a center punch, make an indentation in the flat spot exactly in the center of the rivet head.

3) Use a drill one size smaller than the rivet shank to drill through the rivet head, being careful not to go too deep, causing the rivet to spin, tearing the metal.

4) Insert a drift punch diagonally in the drill hole and knock off the rivet head.

5) Use a pin punch one size smaller than the rivet shank to drive out the shank.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4443110600_2e554212fd_o.gif
Be
with the drill and cause a tear

[TedW]

Do your antiluce catches unscrew from their backing plates?

When I put my tailgate on I bought just the antiluce catches from our hosts. Then I marked my existing plates where the center of the eye hole was and drilled. I then attached the antiluce catches with big honkin' nuts and washers.

Easier than replacing the whole plate (if you can).

[crankin]

Do your antiluce catches unscrew from their backing plates?

When I put my tailgate on I bought just the antiluce catches from our hosts. Then I marked my existing plates where the center of the eye hole was and drilled. I then attached the antiluce catches with big honkin' nuts and washers.

Easier than replacing the whole plate (if you can).

I second that. I drilled my hole a little bigger than the catches bolt to allow for some movement. This way I could adjust and line up with the eyelets dead center.

[scott]

crankin/ted, you're supposed to wait 'til he's drilled out all those rivets befor suggesting...

[109 Pretender]

To the OP:
Correct me if I'm wrong - but it looks like you have a series 3?? If so, one of the many changes made between series 2 and 3 Rovers is the wholesale replacement of the solid rivets w/blind rivets because it was easier and less costly. I'm pretty sure what you have now is the original setup using the blind rivets AND the ones in question are also blind rivets on series 2 vehicles because there is no way to back up a solid rivet along the inside of the top rail cap. The body has a u shaped channel spot welded in that area for strength.
The previously mentioned solution to drill out and slide orig. bracket down and out should work fine - then get some blind rivets w/solid bottoms from our Hosts and you'll be set!

Cheers and enjoy that new tailgate!

[109 Pretender]

Forgot to mention that the solid rivets you have in the plate are orig. and can easily be replaced w/same because there's room to back them up when setting them.

Good luck

[SafeAirOne]

...one of the many changes made between series 2 and 3 Rovers is the wholesale replacement of the solid rivets w/blind rivets because it was easier and less costly.


Talk about a rivet counter! :) I had to go out and check my '73. Sure enough:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4442682029_55f705ed77_o.jpg

[JackIIA]

That's a good little demo. Thanks for the illustrations/video. :thumb-up:

[mrdoiron]

great idea ! having the replacement part i didn't even think of that....

mike

[mrdoiron]

109 Pretender - so not sure why you think it is a series 3... it is actually a 69bugeye, albeit I don't have the history prior to my work on it...... what is it you feel is ser3 ?

appreciated