Front frame horn rust...

[masonater]

So the rear crossmember and one of the front frame horns are the only spots (pretty much) that are rusty. I know RN sells the replacement horns but just the spot where the bumper mounts is rotten, the rest is solid. Should i just cut out around the rust and fab in some new pieces? It seems simple in theory but im wondering if anyone else has had experience with this. Thanks.

[scott]

i'd fab, think of it as kind of a practice run at replacing the horn.

[superpowerdave]

Mine started out that way. And honestly, I'd be real surprised if the rust stopped right there at the front of the frame. Maybe it's just me, but it looks as though the top has already been replaced - my eyes aren't as good as they used to be mind you :) If it's already been patched I'd take a real close look at it.

For piece of mind, since it is structural (I mean, the spring mounts right there!), I'd buy the replacement piece or have it done by a pro.

When I specced it out, the cost of having one built outweighed the replacement; in the end I had an entire frame built ... but that was me.

[TeriAnn]

So the rear crossmember and one of the front frame horns are the only spots (pretty much) that are rusty. I know RN sells the replacement horns but just the spot where the bumper mounts is rotten, the rest is solid. Should i just cut out around the rust and fab in some new pieces? It seems simple in theory but im wondering if anyone else has had experience with this. Thanks.

Sounds like your truck & mine have rust damage in the same spots with a solid frame in between. My rear cross member has a lot of rust at one end and the other end has been buckled from rock crawling damage & pounding back straight so it is real weak.

The frame horns tend to rust right at the front. As it turns out, there is evidently a reinforcing cross piece inside the frame just a little behind where the bumper mounts. The cross piece keeps water & much that comes in at the holes at the top front from going back into the frame. So usually the rust is limited to the front of the frame to about where the front of the spring mount is located.

I'm thinking of just having a fabricator who specializes in car frames just cut off my rusty end and build me a new front end. Though I may yet just buy new front horn sections and have them welded on. I need to cost estimate both options before making up my mind.

[greenmeanie]

My 109 had similar issues. If the side plates and the spring mount are solid as they appear then I would just fabricate a repair. In my case I removed the internal crush plates for the bumper mount and replaced them with tube to sleeve the bolt holes. I also drilled a couple of small holes in the front of the repaired section to ensure any water that gets in there comes back out.

[109 Pretender]

I'd agree w/others that repair might work fine. However, it appears you have the MOD frame that comes w/extended shackle plates and our host only sells the civie frame horn (I think). It might also be a "custom" job done by previous owner to gain ground clearance. Does anyone know where to get the military frame horns - I haven't been able to source repair pieces. Of course you could just get them fabbed locally as long as what you have to work with is to spec (i.e. MOD). If it's a home job - I'd take careful measurements and assess whether it's good enough to make a pattern from. Just a thought...

Good luck! :thumb-up:

[LaneRover]

If you have welding skills I would cut the rust out and re-fab as it is all straight stuff and pretty simple. The worst thing that happens is that you still have to buy a frame horn. But if the rest of it really is solid then fabbing up this section is the quickest, cheapest route in my opinion.

Brent

[east high]

This must be fairly common as I had the same kind of rust damage on my rig. With the help of a friend, I cut out the bad and fabbed up a patch to replace it. Be sure to spray in some rust inhibitor and drill a drain hole in your new patch, or it's gonna start all over again..


If you have welding skills I would cut the rust out and re-fab as it is all straight stuff and pretty simple. The worst thing that happens is that you still have to buy a frame horn. But if the rest of it really is solid then fabbing up this section is the quickest, cheapest route in my opinion.

Brent

[belenjack]

mason i have a frame horn on an old chassis you might be interested in to patch yours i also live in your town pm me to check it out its free for the cause jack