Use of OIL sealants/additives

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  • Regan
    Low Range
    • Oct 2009
    • 35

    Use of OIL sealants/additives

    I have been busy upgrading my 67 Series IIA LR, adding a Roverdive as suggested by earlier comments on this forum to get more speed, gas milege, etc. I have developed a new leak ( I have plenty others) where I installed/connected the Roverdrive to the transfer case. The lower seal between the Roverdirve and case is not holding oil when it gets hot (at the moment). I am running a senthetic blend 70 -90 wt. oil. Has anyone tried, used or reccomend or not the use of oil addititves for sealing transmissions, cases, etc. I have gone back to all my leaks with new seals, gaskets, etc. but just cannot stop them all/leaks. Yes, I know, that's the fun with older LR's. I am hoping this may help. Your comments welcome. Regan
  • yank
    1st Gear
    • Nov 2007
    • 191

    #2
    I would recommend stop using sythetics. They are great for new stuff, But not leaky old stuff. They will leak were it does not with conventional oil.
    72 SIII

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    • scott
      Overdrive
      • Oct 2006
      • 1226

      #3
      Originally posted by Regan
      ... The lower seal between the Roverdirve and case is not holding oil when it gets hot (at the moment)...
      i have a fairey and must admit have never had it off. is there a seal or a gasket between the case and the o/d? how many bolts hold it on? did you apply any gasket sealer, if it was a gasket? did you tighten up the bolts in a star pattern like you would a wheel?
      '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
      '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
      '76 Spitfire 1500
      '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

      Comment

      • Regan
        Low Range
        • Oct 2009
        • 35

        #4
        I just took the roverdirve off last weekend, resealed it in hopes it will work, as well as retightned the bolts holding it in. I did tighten as in a wheel pattern. Orginally, I had trouble putting on the Roverdirve due to a cros bar for the tranmission brake that was not in the instructions. The crossbar was in the way and I was 1/3 the way through the install, so I created my own leak using the gasket and addtional sealant. If it does not wrk this time, I will take the unit completly off, clean up the dry sealent and re install, using another prodcut I heard is great as well as a non synthetic oil. I think they are greaqt, but good on older vehicles due to tolerences not as good as today's vehicles.

        Comment

        • TedW
          5th Gear
          • Feb 2007
          • 887

          #5
          Originally posted by yank
          I would recommend stop using sythetics. They are great for new stuff, But not leaky old stuff. They will leak were it does not with conventional oil.
          FWIW I have used synthetics exclusively for years, and my sled doesn't leak any worse than it did when I used dino juice.

          Synthetics are a must if you have an OD.

          And cold weather performance is light-years better all around. Just my HO.

          Comment

          • Regan
            Low Range
            • Oct 2009
            • 35

            #6
            Thanks, it's hot here is south Louisiana most of the time, so I need all the cooling help I can get. I'll keep running synthetic and see what happens for next 2-3K.

            Comment

            • TedW
              5th Gear
              • Feb 2007
              • 887

              #7
              Originally posted by Regan
              Thanks, it's hot here is south Louisiana most of the time, so I need all the cooling help I can get. I'll keep running synthetic and see what happens for next 2-3K.
              Sorry, Regan! I should have checked your location. In any case, synthetic will also help you run cooler because of reduced friction.

              Comment

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