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View Full Version : tie rod end removal help!


theroverproject
03-26-2010, 05:43 PM
All, I am in the process of replacing my tie rod end for my Disco 1,
I have removed both the carter pin and bolt and have also been successful in get it out, but the threaded end wont turn so that I can unscrew it from the steering control arm. It looks like its siezed.

Is there any trick, do I need heat to remove it. Things were going so well. Any help, please!

Thanks
Mark
spacemutt
03-26-2010, 08:01 PM
Just checking...you've popped it out the coupling and removed the clamp around the steering rod?

I've just done this on my Disco and it was a real pain in the arse. Use loads of penetrating oil. Give it time to soak in. That didn't work for me so I ended up getting two blow-torches on it. Eventually it came off.

Make sure you're turning it the right way of course. :p
theroverproject
03-26-2010, 09:13 PM
Thanks for your comments, it looks like I will need some heat!
I went out tonite and bought a new propane torch and will get at it tomorrow.
Mark
spacemutt
03-26-2010, 09:28 PM
Soak it in penetrating oil overnight. :)
KevinNY
03-28-2010, 09:27 PM
Consider replaceing the whole thing, much easier to get the alignment set again that way too.
msggunny
03-29-2010, 06:25 AM
Just checking...you've popped it out the coupling and removed the clamp around the steering rod?

I've just done this on my Disco and it was a real pain in the arse. Use loads of penetrating oil. Give it time to soak in. That didn't work for me so I ended up getting two blow-torches on it. Eventually it came off.

Make sure you're turning it the right way of course. :p
What he said.

Mine took a vice, pipe wrench, and copious amounts of heat from a torch.

It may be easier to just do what KevinNY said to do.
SGFMORover
04-04-2010, 07:24 PM
buddy of mine had an impact attachment from snap-on for tie rod ends.... LOTS of heat and penetrating oil plus the use of an impact made it easier... its amazing how much of an effect an impact can have compared to a 4ft breaker bar.

also in the past I've cut the slot in the rod slightly longer to allow a little extra gap, then put an extra clamp round it for reassurance after.