Suggestions for Electrical Testing Tool?

[roverlandpark]

I'm trying to hunt down an issue with my brake lights and figured now would be a good time to pick up a decent testing tool. Does anybody have suggestions? I'm sure I can pick one up a cheap one at Wal-Mart, but I would like to know if anybody has a better suggestion.

[siii8873]

a simple test light is an invaluable tool. They are quite cheap, or make one w/ a 12 volt light, and great at racing down where your losing a circuit. I have had a few multimeters and actually liked a cheap analog one I got from radio shack until it quit after many many years of service. I also have a good fluke digital which is good also, but expensive. I think I use the test light as much as any of them, which I made from a cheap side light I had.
Check the bulb and grounds, usually the problem.
How is Les's old truck, what do you plan to do to it?

[TeriAnn]

I'm trying to hunt down an issue with my brake lights and figured now would be a good time to pick up a decent testing tool. Does anybody have suggestions?

A multimeter is my basic electrical troubleshooting tool. Not only tells you if you have voltage but how much is there as well. The ohm meter is great for identifying shorts as well as verifying connections. I never leave on a long trip without one.

[SafeAirOne]

Just get a cheap $25 Wal-Mart digital multi-meter. It has the features and is accurate enough do everything you could ever need to do on a Rover electrical system, plus it's compact enough to take with you on longer trips. One with an audible continuity tester is invaluable.

Of course, you should learn how to use the common features, namely DC voltmeter, ohmmeter, and continuity tester. I've never used any other multi-meter feature on a Rover.

There's really no need to spend $75+ for a really good meter when you are only going to use 3 basic features found on any meter.

[4flattires]

I can help you out here. This is mine on Craigslist. PM me
if interested.


http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/tls/1670380312.html

Jeff

[I Leak Oil]

I have both a test light and a multi-meter. The test light is sufficient for 99% of my rovers' electrical issues.

[Rineheitzgabot]

I agree about the test light. Most issues you have can be resolved efficiently with a simply test light (and it's nice that they have that little alligator clip to really get ahold of the ground).

[thixon]

X3 on the test light. While I have several multi-meters, and do use them from time to time, the test light is usually what I pick up.

[TeriAnn]

X3 on the test light. While I have several multi-meters, and do use them from time to time, the test light is usually what I pick up.

And I have one I doubt that I've touched in well over a decade except to move it out of the way when I'm looking for something else. If you use test lights you need one with a battery so you can check continuity & for shorts and you need one without a battery so you can check for the presence of battery voltage.

With a multimeter you can check for so much more than that absence or presence of something. But I can see how one might be a little intimidating to someone who is not comfortable with electrical circuitry.

Bottom line is that for very basic troubleshooting, looking for the presence or absence of voltage or that you have continuity between point A and point B, both continuity testers and multimeters work OK so pick the one you are most comfortable with.

[Les Parker]

So, back to the question in hand.
What is the issue with the brake lights?
If you jump the 2 wires on the brake light switch the lights should come on, unless the 6 way switch is in either convoy or side lights only.

Please advise,

[thixon]

But I can see how one might be a little intimidating to someone who is not comfortable with electrical circuitry.



TA,

Are you asserting that I'm not comfortable with electrical circuitry?

[I Leak Oil]

Travis, let me guess. You're an electrician or something?:D

[TeriAnn]

TA,

Are you asserting that I'm not comfortable with electrical circuitry?

Not you in particular. I was writing in general terms. No dander up please.

[jgkmmoore]

Can someone with electrical moxy address Les Parkers question regarding jumping the brakelight switch? I can't, or I certainly would.:sly:

[Terrys]

Horses for Courses. The choice of tool depends on the vehicle much of the time. I find that the old electric icepick is up to almost any challenge on a series truck, and ergonomically convenient too. While TA is correct that you can't check continuity without a 'powered' test light, or meter, most circuits of a series truck begin at a battery, through a fuse, so progressively checking with the test light, down the line, so to speak, is easier than trying to isolate a line.
It's generally been my experience that a good analog meter (I've had many Simpson 260 meters in the past 40 years, they're still the best) is easier to use on a car than a digital, simply because a searching digital display is frustrating at best, misleading at worst.
On Defenders, Rangies, etc, the difference between analog and digital is even more relavant, favoring analog.

[SafeAirOne]

Can someone with electrical moxy address Les Parkers question regarding jumping the brakelight switch? I can't, or I certainly would.:sly:


Well, there never was a question about brake light troubleshooting, just testing tools.

However, since there is a demand for some brakelight troubleshooting here, if one takes the +12v lead (green) off the brake light switch and connects it to the other lead on the switch--the one that goes to the brake lights (green/purple)--the brake lights should illuminate, indicating (or eliminating) the brake pressure switch as the culprit.

It would appear that the switches (ignition and military light switch) have to be in the correct position to complete this test.

[Les Parker]

SafeAirOne,

A more complete answer, thanks for the input, though I was attempting to multi-task and solve the intital query.
If the 6 way switch is not correctly in the "off" position the brake lights will not work, thus making it a little more difficult to diagnose.

[kevkon]

I'm trying to hunt down an issue with my brake lights and figured now would be a good time to pick up a decent testing tool. Does anybody have suggestions? I'm sure I can pick one up a cheap one at Wal-Mart, but I would like to know if anybody has a better suggestion.

The better circuit testers like the Snap on http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=66799&group_ID=1390&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog will not only indicate power, but ground and a good connection as well.
I would have to agree with TeriAnn though, a multi tester is invaluable especially with resistance which can be a real problem with old vehicles, hacked up wiring, and corroded bullet connectors.

[roverlandpark]

Thanks everyone for your advice. I have finally gotten a continuity tester and ruled out the pedal switch. At this point, I think that it could be the hazard switch. It's not working at all. I looked at the circuit diagram and the brake lights connect through this piece. My next step is to see if I can take the switch apart to test the individual leads. I'm a little bit reluctant to do this because I have a tendency to break plastic parts. This piece retails for over $100 at our hosts....

[roverlandpark]

So right after I pull the dash from the bulkhead, I try the hazard switch. It works. Then I try the brakes, they work! I swear, the only thing I did between the last post and now was to take the dash out. Ah, the joy of working with Lucas electrics....

[kevkon]

That's a common sympton of an improper/bad connection or loose contact. Use your tester and jiggle the suspect wire and switches.

[unimog875]

Hands down, In my shop i use the newest power probe EVERY day and it absolutely makes me money!