I'm trying to hunt down an issue with my brake lights and figured now would be a good time to pick up a decent testing tool. Does anybody have suggestions? I'm sure I can pick one up a cheap one at Wal-Mart, but I would like to know if anybody has a better suggestion.
Suggestions for Electrical Testing Tool?
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a simple test light is an invaluable tool. They are quite cheap, or make one w/ a 12 volt light, and great at racing down where your losing a circuit. I have had a few multimeters and actually liked a cheap analog one I got from radio shack until it quit after many many years of service. I also have a good fluke digital which is good also, but expensive. I think I use the test light as much as any of them, which I made from a cheap side light I had.
Check the bulb and grounds, usually the problem.
How is Les's old truck, what do you plan to do to it?THING 1 - 1973 88 SIII - SOLD
THING 2 -1974 88 SIII Daily Driver - SOLD
THING 3 - 1969 88 SIIA Bugeye Project
THING 4 - 1971 109 SIIA ExMod - SOLD
THING 5 - 1958 109 PU
THING 6 - 1954 86" HT -
A multimeter is my basic electrical troubleshooting tool. Not only tells you if you have voltage but how much is there as well. The ohm meter is great for identifying shorts as well as verifying connections. I never leave on a long trip without one.-
Teriann Wakeman_________
Flagstaff, AZ.
1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978
My Land Rover web site
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Just get a cheap $25 Wal-Mart digital multi-meter. It has the features and is accurate enough do everything you could ever need to do on a Rover electrical system, plus it's compact enough to take with you on longer trips. One with an audible continuity tester is invaluable.
Of course, you should learn how to use the common features, namely DC voltmeter, ohmmeter, and continuity tester. I've never used any other multi-meter feature on a Rover.
There's really no need to spend $75+ for a really good meter when you are only going to use 3 basic features found on any meter.--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).Comment
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I can help you out here. This is mine on Craigslist. PM me
if interested.
Jeff64 SIIa 109 all stock
69 SIIa 88 all stock
Old tractors
New Harleys
Old trucksComment
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I have both a test light and a multi-meter. The test light is sufficient for 99% of my rovers' electrical issues.Jason
"Clubs are for Chumps" Club presidentComment
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I agree about the test light. Most issues you have can be resolved efficiently with a simply test light (and it's nice that they have that little alligator clip to really get ahold of the ground)."I can't believe I'm sitting here, completely surrounded by no beer!" -OnslowComment
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With a multimeter you can check for so much more than that absence or presence of something. But I can see how one might be a little intimidating to someone who is not comfortable with electrical circuitry.
Bottom line is that for very basic troubleshooting, looking for the presence or absence of voltage or that you have continuity between point A and point B, both continuity testers and multimeters work OK so pick the one you are most comfortable with.-
Teriann Wakeman_________
Flagstaff, AZ.
1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978
My Land Rover web site
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So, back to the question in hand.
What is the issue with the brake lights?
If you jump the 2 wires on the brake light switch the lights should come on, unless the 6 way switch is in either convoy or side lights only.
Please advise,Les Parker
Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
Rovers North Inc.
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Travis, let me guess. You're an electrician or something?Jason
"Clubs are for Chumps" Club presidentComment
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Teriann Wakeman_________
Flagstaff, AZ.
1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978
My Land Rover web site
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Horses for Courses. The choice of tool depends on the vehicle much of the time. I find that the old electric icepick is up to almost any challenge on a series truck, and ergonomically convenient too. While TA is correct that you can't check continuity without a 'powered' test light, or meter, most circuits of a series truck begin at a battery, through a fuse, so progressively checking with the test light, down the line, so to speak, is easier than trying to isolate a line.
It's generally been my experience that a good analog meter (I've had many Simpson 260 meters in the past 40 years, they're still the best) is easier to use on a car than a digital, simply because a searching digital display is frustrating at best, misleading at worst.
On Defenders, Rangies, etc, the difference between analog and digital is even more relavant, favoring analog.Comment
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