1990 RRC ABS out - No Brakes

[nahfwt]

Hello Experts,

I have a 1990 Range Rover County equipped with ABS brakes. The high pressure braided hose went out a few weeks ago and I had it replaced by a mechanic. A few days later the rover lost the ability to stop entirely. I took it to the mechanic and he said the ABS pump has gone out and then quoted me $ 5,000 to fix the system. This seems outrageous, and I have never been impressed with the performance of the ABS brakes on the rover anyways. (I have owned this rover since 1997) This rover is in great shape other then this ABS problem and I would like to know if anybody has swaped in a non ABS system into a Range Rover Classic? What would be involved in this? What parts would I need and what parts would I be able to reuse? Any advice/opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Nathan

[Firemanshort]

If this was a Series truck, without fancy new technology on it, I would jsut say that you needed to re-bleed your brakes......

Call Will Tillery @ Roverguy.com - he is the Range Rover expert.

[KevinNY]

Good advice above, and find a new mechanic, he's a crook.

[Bruce Fowler]

Well... A new Master for the 90 classic cost more then
most of those vehicles are worth.

Yes, the earlier Master Cylinders will work (87- 89)... I Replaced the whole
bulkhead backing plate and pedals from a 1988 donor then shunted the ABS
light to the oil pressure light so to get it inspected. replumbing the brake
lines took a bit of fiddling. This is something you most likely will need to do
yourself... Can't thing of any garage that would be willing to do it.

I'm guessing a later system could also work?

Bruce

[joshua.mcguoirk]

If this was a Series truck, without fancy new technology on it, I would jsut say that you needed to re-bleed your brakes......

Call Will Tillery @ Roverguy.com - he is the Range Rover expert.

The RRC can be a bit tricky when bleeding the brakes on an ABS equipped vehicle. The service manual suggest the following procedure:

1: Switch off ignition and depressurise system. Ensure ignition remains OFF until instruction 7.

2: Fill fluid reservoir with specified fluid to 'MAX' level.

3: Depress brake pedal slowly and progressively five times, using full pedal stroke. Release pedal five to ten seconds, air bubbles will rise into reservoir.

4: Repeat instruction 3 until some resistance is felt. If no resistance is felt check clevis pin is connected to correct (UPPER) hole in brake pedal.

5: Bleed four front caliper lower (hydrostatic) bleed screws in the conventional manner. In the order: outer bleed screw driver’s side, opposite caliper outer bleed screw, inner bleed crew, inner bleed screw driver’s side. Depress brake pedal slowly and progressively, locking bleed screw at bottom of each stroke.

6: Bleed hydraulic pump - open bleed screw on pump and allow fluid to flow until clear of air bubbles. Do not use bleed bottle, use a clean absorbant cloth to prevent fluid spillage.

7: Bleed accumulator - open bleed screw. If vehicle has ETC, accumulator bleed screw is on top of ETC valve block. Switch on ignition, run pump
for 3-4 secs, switch off and repeat procedure until fluid is clear of air bubbles. Switch off ignition. Close bleed screw.

8: Bleed two hydraulic booster bleed screws. Open one bleed screw, depress brake pedal, switch on ignition, run pump until fluid is clear of air
bubbles. Close booster bleed screw, switch off ignition, release pedal. Repeat for other bleed screw.

9: Bleed power circuit at four calipers in turn. Depress pedal, open bleed screw, (upper bleed screw on front calipers). Switch on ignition, run
pump for 3-4 secs, switch off and repeat procedure until fluid is clear of air bubbles. Switch off ignition, close caliper bleed screw, release pedal.

10: Bleed master cylinder - switch ignition on. System pressure will increase until pump cuts out. If pump does not cut out after running for 45
secs, check system for leaks.

11: Bleed hydrostatic circuit calipers - open one front lower caliper bleed screw. Actuate brake pedal several times, using only lower two thirds of
pedal travel, until fluid is clear of air bubbles. Stop actuation if fluid warning light comes on and allow pressure to build up.

12: Close caliper bleed screw before releasing pedal, repeat for remaining three hydrostatic bleed screws.

13: Check/top up reservoir fluid level.

14: Dry all connections, fully pressurise system, check for leaks. If two full brake applications switch on pump, from fully charged, rebleed system.

Have fun,