Starter Motor

[Oldblue]

I replaced my starter on a 72 series III 88" after having some starting problems (after replacing all wiring and the solenoid) and was happy to report the motor started right up when finished. I've been driving it regularly now for about 6 weeks ( 2 to 3 times per week), but yesterday I was starnded in a parking lot at home depot as it would'nt start once gain. I get a stong start but the motor will not catch. After about 20 tries over 30 minutes, it finally caught and I was able to get home, but I'm now reluctant to take her out again until I can find out the cause. I suspect that the startmotor is not seated completely against the frame and There is 1-2mm gap between the back of the starter where it is bolted to the frame. Could this be the issue? Any help would be appreciated.

[SafeAirOne]

Are you saying that you are attempting to start the (gasoline) engine but the starter motor (electric) is not "catching"? Or are you saying that the motor is working properly, spinning the engine, but the engine itself won't start up?

The starter mounting flange should be mated flush against the flywheel housing.

[Oldblue]

When I turn the key the starter motor cranks, and the engine begins to turn but does not start or "catch" and stay started.

[Oldblue]

so, yes the starter motor seems to be working but the engine will not start. I guess I['m assuming its the starter not engaing the engine properly, or enough to kepp it going. But now that you phrase it that way, could it be a clogged fuel line issue if the engine fails to stay running?

[SafeAirOne]

If the electric starter is spinning the Rover's engine over normally and the engine won't start, your starter is fine--er...except that it should mate flat against the flywheel housing that it's mounted to. Just adjust it so that it does.

Your engine not starting with the starter spinning it sufficiently can be always be traced to one (or a combination) of 3 things, barring any major engine damage: 1) A problem with the combustion air supply, 2) a problem with the fuel supply or 3) a problem with the ignition source (spark). Use the process of elimination to troubleshoot your problem.

The easiest thing to eliminate is a bad supply of combustion air. Is your air filter assembly allowing sufficient air to through it? Is the rubber and cloth intake air hose delaminated on the inside, blocking off the air to the engine? (This happened to me when I bought a cheap aftermarket intake hose.) etc...

Do the same for the other two systems.

My first instinct would be to check for a clogged sediment screen on the bottom of the fuel supply tube in the fuel tank. A clogged screen allows you to drive for a while, until the restriction causes so much of a fuel defecit that the engine won't stay running. After a half hour or so, the suction in the fuel lines equalizes, allowing you to start up and drive again (for a while, at least).

[RoverForm]

Having a starting issue on a '66 88 IIa.

Generator light is on.
Head lamps and turn signals come on when the ignition is in the S and H positions
When starter is pushed i get a half attempt from the engine at starting then nothing.

Bad starter?
Bad battery?
Bad generator?

[SafeAirOne]

The charge light should be on till the engine fires up and the alternator starts putting out sufficient juice. Sounds like a dead battery to me.

Just re-read it...Do you have a generator or alternator? Shouldn't make too much difference, really...

[RoverForm]

The charge light should be on till the engine fires up and the alternator starts putting out sufficient juice. Sounds like a dead battery to me.

Just re-read it...Do you have a generator or alternator? Shouldn't make too much difference, really...

charge light is always on. have a generator. tried to use the hand crank today but got too scared and decided not to.

it jump starts fine, and fires right up first try with a portable battery jumper.

[SafeAirOne]

charge light is always on. have a generator. tried to use the hand crank today but got too scared and decided not to.

it jump starts fine, and fires right up first try with a portable battery jumper.

Well, having no generator experience, I wouldn't venture more than to say that your generator isn't charging your battery for whatever reason.

[albersj51]

I am no expert, so you get what you pay for :)

if it works with the battery jumper I would assume your generator pooped the bed, or you have a bad battery. I would pull the battery and take it to autozone or someone and have them do a free test to rule it out. If that comes back fine I'd look at changing the generator to an alternator and enjoy driving at night for once :)

[RoverForm]

thanks mark. i'll look at the battery and then the gen.


I am no expert, so you get what you pay for :)

if it works with the battery jumper I would assume your generator pooped the bed, or you have a bad battery. I would pull the battery and take it to autozone or someone and have them do a free test to rule it out. If that comes back fine I'd look at changing the generator to an alternator and enjoy driving at night for once :)

duly noted. tell me the story about generator night driving restrictions...

[albersj51]

thanks mark. i'll look at the battery and then the gen.



duly noted. tell me the story about generator night driving restrictions...

The generator doesnt produce enough juice (20amps?) to keep the battery charged when you drive for a while with lights on, windshield wipers going and your heater going. I found mine not keeping up just from the headlights. No more issues since I put in a 78 amp alternator. Look at LRFAQ.org and expeditionlandrover.info.

[RoverForm]

Thank you!

[I Leak Oil]

Wonder how Oldblue is making out in this thread....

[RoverForm]

Wonder how Oldblue is making out in this thread....
great question. haven't heard anything since may.

but this brings up a good point... i moderate a fixed gear bicycling forum, and we discourage starting new threads on topics that have been covered before. we recommend that members use older threads for redundant topics to reduce thread clutter.

as for etiquette around here, how do the mods feel about resurrecting older threads? good form? frowned upon?

[shock]

Check and make sure you have a solid grounding strap. I had a similar issue and found the PO had a ground that was about a 12 gauge wire from the battery negative to the body. I'm surprised the thing ever started. Go get one of those woven/stranded grounding straps and make sure it makes good contact with the battery cable and body (watch for rusty cable bolts, etc).

[RoverForm]

has anyone used the hand starting crank to start their series?

is there a list of steps to follow, or do you just stick it in and crank?

[thixon]

has anyone used their hand starting crank to start there series before?

is there a list of steps to follow, or do you just stick it in and crank?

Make sure the ignition is on, pump the fuel pump lever a few times to make sure your fuel line is full. Feel free to pump the gas pedal a couple of times, and then crank away.

[RoverForm]

about how many turns does it take? is it a fast wind up, like in the old charlie chaplin silent films where you're winding and winding until it turns over? or is it like a one twist kind of thing similar to kick starting a motorcycle?

* i just found this video: ="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eVz3lzlHyc&NR=1"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eVz3lzlHyc&NR=1

there's no way it's that easy, right?

[thixon]

If its properly tuned, then that's about right. I used to start my old sIII that way just to be a smartarse.

[Andrew IIA]

about how many turns does it take? is it a fast wind up, like in the old charlie chaplin silent films where you're winding and winding until it turns over? or is it like a one twist kind of thing similar to kick starting a motorcycle?

* i just found this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eVz3lzlHyc&NR=1

there's no way it's that easy, right?
Wow, that is NOT what starting my 2.25 with the hand crank is like. The ring gear on the fly wheel got mangled a couple of years ago and I had to start the truck with the hand crank for about three months before I got the truck to Matt at OE for repairs.

On my truck (8:1 head) it is fairly easy to start with the hand crank when the engine is cold if you are very careful; its damn near impossible to start with the hand crank when the engine is hot. I say 'very careful' because when the engine fires up it kicks the crank out like a mule, throwing it forward while spinning it at a very high speed. If your (my) wrist/hand/knuckles get whacked by the handle you will be lucky if nothing gets broken (I was). When I use the hand crank I ALWAYS stand in front of the left wing and pull the crank towards me (one handle rotation per try), and then pull my hands away as quickly as possible. I never push the handle away from me; and I never stand in front of the handle.

My 2 cents :thumb-up:

[SalemRover]

its damn near impossible to start with the hand crank when the engine is hot.

Do you use the choke when it's hot? That made all the difference for me when I hand cranked a hot engine. Counter intuitive but I reckoned that it was keeping the gas from evaporating and escaping the intake manifold. It was easier with the choke on with a hot engine imho.

-Jason

[LaneRover]

I have to use my foot on mine - is it still a hand crank then?

[scott]

mine's pretty easy, 1/2 a crank usually does it. for me the hardest part is getting down and up off a knee, which i have to do to see and hit the dog nut

[RoverForm]

Today I said "screw it" and decided to give the hand crank a go.

Fired right up first try...

Ze2MV1NPoRQ

Almost as easy as the push button starter