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CliftonRover
03-06-2007, 05:10 PM
The 200 Tdi that I bought from RN has had 1500 miles on it scince I bought it. there is now a oil like liquid leaking fron the head gasket on the vacum pump side (passenger side). Are there common problems here, is this normal, it only happens after the motor has heated up which by the way takes forever. The engine running cold does't seem like a bad thing to me, but I thought I would mention it. The one cause of this problem could have been from the over filling of the resovoir tank leaving no room for the expansion of rthe coolant. the tank doesn't have a pressure release for some reason, could the coolant expanding have caused this, if so, ill just do a head gasket, and it will be done wit hopefully. the engine is by the way fit into a IIA 109, It is a great replacment and was fairly easy to install. feel free to ask if your interested in doing this yourself, there are a number of modifications that make this 109 very unique.

daveb
03-08-2007, 08:46 AM
feel free to ask if your interested in doing this yourself, there are a number of modifications that make this 109 very unique.

Hello

Yes, please share the details of your conversion. I don't think there are many of these around at the moment.

rgrds
Dave in DC

CliftonRover
03-08-2007, 12:42 PM
The 200 Tdi will fit in the engine bay of a series truck without any cutting of the bulkhead. It also bolts directly to the series tranny, which makes that part easy. I first major obstacle is making a new passenger side front engine mount. to do this I bolted the three other mounts into position and then leveled the motor with a hoist and took measurments. The original passenger side mount is far too long and the rumors of flipping mounts from different sides and what not are all false. You need to cut off the old mount and at the same time the battery box mount, to make room for the injector pump. Then fabricate a new mount, or have someone qualified do it for you, the diesel is more powerfull so I used substantially thicker stock here. I retained the mount bolted to the engine's right side beacie it is very compact and gives you enought room to work. the next problem is with clearance for the series steering box. the turbo down pipe is too close to the output arm of the box. to remedy this I used 3/4" aluminum and machined out a piece to fit perfectly between the fire wall mount and the steering box. it is important to make a spacer place and not just to shim the box away from the motor with large washers or such things. the box needs the surface area of a plate for strength. If you do not do this correctly you run the possibility of cracking your steering box. the shift of the box away from the motor is small enough that it is not manditory to move the top of the steering colum, but it is noticable. you can do this simply by drilling new holes for the bracket holdong the colum in the cab. The fire whall support that stems from the frame up to the steering box also needs to be shimmed down at the frame. I used the same materials as above to complete this. the next dilemma is how to mount the radiator and intercooler. In the defender they come in a frame together, but because of the steering relay unit and the clearance needed for this yoyu need to split then apart. I wanted to used the 200 Tdi radiator complete with its oil cooler, you can use the series radiator and an auxilery oil cooler but you may run into cooling problems. To fit the radiator and intercooler in front of the motor, I switched to an electric fan, cut the old radiator supports off so the grill was only about an inch deep, and then built a new front structure, to support the fenders, grill and cooling system. The structure I made from 1/4" thick 2 1/2" be 2 1/2" stainless steel. This was much more sturdy than needed. I cut and bolted two vertical pieces to the outside of the frame, and then ran a piece across the top connecting them. I then took the frame that used to surround the radiator and intercooler and made a lower radiator support right behind the front crossmember. mounting the radiator as far right as possible to avoid the steering relay. The intercooler then mounted slightly in front of the radiators left side, its top mounting in the new front structure and its bottom in the front frame crossmember. The inlets and outlets on the intercooler will barely fit without hitting the steering relay, but unless you buy a different intercooler this is the best way, and it works. the top of the radiator is supported be brackets I made running from the top cross bar to the radiator. The other probem with mounting the radiator and grill so close is that there is no room for headilights. The steel I used for my front structure did not allow enough room for the lights in their normal spots, if you kept the lights you wouls have to move the grill forward a slight bit to make the head light bowls fit. Instead of doing this I moved the lights to the fenders. the easiest way to do this would be to get some series 3 fenders, bit at the time none were avaliable for a reasonable price in newengland and I custom fit them. I mounted the lights in the center of the from of the fenders approx., and used series 3 backing plates, light bowls, and retainers, to make a very stock look. the measurments must be very exact, as it is noticable if your headlights are at different hights.
the next steps are riging up some fuel lines, mounting the fuel filter and battery under the driver seat. You also need to hook up a new gas pedal cable linkage, I just use a choke cable with a heavy spring for this. the exhaust is also an issue, I had a custom setup put in. a local garage bent up different pipes and made a good high hanging system for a very reasonable price.
Hoses for the radiator will not be easy to find, I made the lower hose with a T juction running up to the resovoir that you easily mount on the fender side. the upper hose is short , and I took a long time to find, I you have a flexible hose, this would be easy.
The gauges and instuments are not connectable. I used a temp sensor in the radiator to activate the electric fan. I drilled out and tapped the cap above the thermosdat to mount a temp guage. there is conveiniently a nipple on this cap that was easy to drill here. and thats it.

daveb
03-08-2007, 06:18 PM
the next problem is with clearance for the series steering box.

hey

thanks that was a good detailed description of the major issues. a friend of mine is doing the same thing and can use this info.

couple q's

1.was your tdi a disco or defnder unit
2.I saw a 300tdi series III that had the end of the steering box shaft cut off flush with the top of the nut that holds the drop arm on. would doing that enable you to remove or perhaps even reduce the size of your shim blocks?
3. do you like it? are you using the stock gearing?

thanks and cheers
dave

CliftonRover
03-08-2007, 11:10 PM
the engine is a defender unit, and it is totally sick. The turbo is mounted on top of the motor, this project cannot be done with a disco motor without changing to power steering. I use a stock tranny, and a hi ration t case from rovers north, with stock ring and pinions. The turbo whistle is not for the faint of heart, I insulated the whole fire wall, but with a huge K and N the thing is still loud. I think this is awsome, its still quieter than a stock rover at 50mph and especially an overdrive. hood insulation and a different intake and a muffled exhaust would also quiet it down. If your friend has a late series tranny with the lower first and reverse, then I would recommend 3.54's even with the hi ratio. I haven't tried it but my rig could use another gear, so it would probably be alright. I can run (not floored) up the hills in vermont on 89 and 91 and have not problem going 75 or higher, my spedo is not too accurate. I run 235/85's which are approx. 31.5" tires, and it has plenty of power, the next set will be taller. by the way in low range 4.70's 1st gear, the diesel will crawl over anything. I have crawled over a 15" high median in a parking lot without my foot on the throttle.

CliftonRover
03-08-2007, 11:12 PM
sorry forgot to mention the steering, cutting the shaft would not elininate the need to shim the box, and if your going to save 1/4" in shims by doing it its not really worth it. I would leave the steering shaft alone, it would be useless to change.

singingcamel
03-09-2007, 10:56 AM
hi cliff,
i also have a 200 tdi ,i'm putting it in a defender 110.
i bought my engine out of the u.k. many years ago ,i'm now getting around to dropping it in.
Steve Parker landrover in the u.k. told me the are leakers,but i don't how much or what to expect...
i have a radiator shroud if you need one..
www.singingcamel.com (http://www.singingcamel.com)

CliftonRover
03-09-2007, 03:26 PM
Nice site, I think I saw a few pictures of the 110 you mentioned. As far as the engine leaking, this may be true. Mine had very low milage when I got it I think 30 thousand or less. I ran it up to rovers north from the shoreline of Ct and back and that was the only prolonged driveing it did, before I noticed mousture near the vacum pump on comming from the head gasket. As far as oil a good 200Tdi won't leak much, from my experience, but I think I blew my head gasket. I have a watery/very thin oily liquid that leaks from the head on the passenger side, but only when the engine warms up.I a week or so i am going to replace this gasket as well as the timing belt. I believe the cause of my leak to be from presure in the cooling system. My resovior tank does not have a pressure release, and I filled the tank all the way without thinking about the expansion of the coolant and that it might blow the head gasket. make sure you don't do this, I you can replace your resovoir with a range rover unit, one with a pressure releasing cap. YOU WILL LOVE THE POWER DIFFERENC THOUGH. ITS A VERY STRONG MOTOR and it govened so you could potentially run it flat out and not do damage, I don't recomend this however.

singingcamel
03-09-2007, 03:34 PM
thanks for the compliment...marc

CliftonRover
04-03-2007, 07:25 PM
about the 200 Tdi being a leaker, I just did my head gasket and it didn't fix a leak I had so that rumor may be true.

a109
04-16-2007, 11:57 AM
The expansion tank is supposed to be pressurised, it takes the place of the header tank on older style radiators. The system is designed to carry about 15 psi so it's not likely that it contributed to the leak.
John

Naples 90
05-11-2007, 02:03 AM
I have a 1992 Def 90 with 200Tdi and 93,000 Km (57,787 miles) and I don't have a single leak. I don't know if this is "normal" or I am just lucky! But I know there are a couple of members in our club (www.napolifuoristrada.it (http://www.napolifuoristrada.it) ) that have had "issues".

CliftonRover
05-15-2007, 11:55 PM
I decided to just do the head gasket again and this time get the head machined. I check the head with a strait edge last time but apparently not well enough.