Replacing rear transfer case seal

[NC_Mule]

So this weekends project is to fix a nasty leak at the rear transfer case. I've got the seal, mud shield, felt seal and brake backing plate gasket.
In reading the manual it seems that I drop the drive shaft, 4 bolts remove the E brake housing then a big nut and circlip will get me to the seal. Looks pretty straight forward, too straight forward.........anything I'm missing or should watch out for?
I've got air so getting the big nut off should be o.k, can't find the torque spec for reinstall.......anyone know that off hand?
Thanks pb

[SafeAirOne]

So this weekends project is to fix a nasty leak at the rear transfer case. I've got the seal, mud shield, felt seal and brake backing plate gasket.
In reading the manual it seems that I drop the drive shaft, 4 bolts remove the E brake housing then a big nut and circlip will get me to the seal. Looks pretty straight forward, too straight forward.........anything I'm missing or should watch out for?
I've got air so getting the big nut off should be o.k, can't find the torque spec for reinstall.......anyone know that off hand?
Thanks pb

Personal recommendation: Take the speedometer housing off and install the rear seal on the bench. It can be a real challenge to do in-situ.

[NC_Mule]

Thanks for the tip, I made it to the seal. Going to give it a shot with the speedo housing in place. One thing that I came across that was odd,the large castle bolt had the cotter pin in place but once the pin was removed I found the nut only hand tight. Looked up the torque spec and I show 85lbs. Going to torque it back to 85 and see what happens. Wondering if that might be causing the shuddering I get when starting out in 1st or reverse.
pb

[cachinfool]

Thanks for the tip, I made it to the seal. Going to give it a shot with the speedo housing in place. One thing that I came across that was odd,the large castle bolt had the cotter pin in place but once the pin was removed I found the nut only hand tight. Looked up the torque spec and I show 85lbs. Going to torque it back to 85 and see what happens. Wondering if that might be causing the shuddering I get when starting out in 1st or reverse.
pb

I'm in the process of installing my TC and finally got around to attaching the transmission brake today and found that if I torqued the castle nut to anything near the spec, and squiching the hell out of the new felt washer, the nut was in way past the holes for the cotter pin so I backed the nut off so that the cotter pin just engaged in one of the slots of the nut. Is this typical and did I do the right thing?

[NC_Mule]

I'm in the process of installing my TC and finally got around to attaching the transmission brake today and found that if I torqued the castle nut to anything near the spec, and squiching the hell out of the new felt washer, the nut was in way past the holes for the cotter pin so I backed the nut off so that the cotter pin just engaged in one of the slots of the nut. Is this typical and did I do the right thing?

1am here, just finished the seal. Upon reinstalling the castle nut I was able to torque to 85 and the cotter pin hole thru the shaft was in the correct position to secure the castle nut. Trying to think what might be causing your problem.....in reading the manual I read about some shims that go between the speedo housing and the transfer case. The shims set the output shaft bearing preload, any chance you forgot to put those back on? With those missing the speedo housing, brake backing plate and drive shaft flange would all be further down( towards the ft of the truck) the output shaft and in turn cause the castle nut to thread down past the cotter pin hole. I'm no rover expert, just thinking out load because I was just working in that area.
pb

[JackIIA]

reviving dead thread

Just wanted to see if anyone had any other thoughts on this. I ran into the same situation as Cachinfool [the castlenut holding the e-brake onto the TC output shaft goes 'beyond' the hole for the cotterpin]. I believe I have the correct preload on the speedo (and yes, the shims are in there). I've tightened it down, a good deal less than 85ft/lbs, but more than just hand tightened...and definitely 'squished' that felt seal even after fitting it in the shaft grooves.

Overthinking it?...or am I asking for trouble?


Cachinfool: "I'm in the process of installing my TC and finally got around to attaching the transmission brake today and found that if I torqued the castle nut to anything near the spec, it squiched the hell out of the new felt washer, the nut was in way past the holes for the cotter pin so I backed the nut off so that the cotter pin just engaged in one of the slots of the nut.... "

[cachinfool]

Just wanted to see if anyone had any other thoughts on this. I ran into the same situation as Cachinfool [the castlenut holding the e-brake onto the TC output shaft goes 'beyond' the hole for the cotterpin]. I believe I have the correct preload on the speedo (and yes, the shims are in there). I've tightened it down, a good deal less than 85ft/lbs, but more than just hand tightened...and definitely 'squished' that felt seal even after fitting it in the shaft grooves.

Overthinking it?...or am I asking for trouble?


Cachinfool: "I'm in the process of installing my TC and finally got around to attaching the transmission brake today and found that if I torqued the castle nut to anything near the spec, it squiched the hell out of the new felt washer, the nut was in way past the holes for the cotter pin so I backed the nut off so that the cotter pin just engaged in one of the slots of the nut.... "

The TC that I put in was a used unit I bought from Ray @ RoverDrive, so I assumed that it was good to go. In the end whether it was the right thing to do or not I just added an additional washer and torqued the nut to spec and the nut was then in the correct position.

[JackIIA]

The TC that I put in was a used unit I bought from Ray @ RoverDrive, so I assumed that it was good to go. In the end whether it was the right thing to do or not I just added an additional washer and torqued the nut to spec and the nut was then in the correct position.

I will probably keep it buttoned up as is then, and see if I notice any issues. If so, I may add the washer you mention. Thanks.

[LR Max]

Go to the parts store (any will do) and buy a seal puller tool. It'll save you a lot of headache.

If you have a bench to work on, pulling the speedo housing will save you some time and effort.

The night before you install, put the seal in the freezer, it'll shrink the seal just a *touch*, making installation a breeze. Otherwise, you gotta force the SOB in there.