1967 Series IIA Clutch Replacement

[dgraham29]

Any ballpark estimates on how many hours it takes and how much the cost would be to have a repair shop replace the clutch on a '67 Series IIA 2.25 litre 88" ?
I note that transmission must be removed, which also means the seat frame and floor panels have to come out.
Sounds like many hours.
I know the clutch parts themselves are around $220-250.
Thanks.

[scott]

one weekend, one buddy and 37 beers...if your buddy doesn't drink. a bit less if you have already had your seat box and floor boards out within the last few years

[bobzinak]

If I recall correctly, you do not have to remove seat base if you just want to renew clutch. you can slide the transmission back far enough to access the clutch and remove pressure plate and clutch plate. its a little tight but I have done it that way. make sure that you line up the clutch plate so your transmission will go back in easy. (put itin ist and turn the emergency brake to rotate input into transmission to aline splines. hope this helps....

[greenmeanie]

Just did it today in 5 hrs flat including removing both front seats, the heater duct and one of those molded mats that seems to want to wrestle with you for ages before coming out.

[dgraham29]

Thanks very much to all of you.
By "taking out front seats," do you mean completely removing the seat box?
I note 2nd comment says might not have to remove the entire box.
Do you also have to remove left-side floor plate and tunnel cover?
Thanks again.

[gudjeon]

I remove the entire seat box, floor boards on both sides, and tranny tunnel. No point in trying to cut corners. It just makes the other job a pain. I get a good strong buddy to help (two is even better). I chain/rope a long post onto the assembly and lift it out of the passenger side. Once out it is all a snap.:thumb-up:

All the rusty bolts is what slows this job down. I replace all the with new bolts, nut, and washers and use neversieze goop on them. Tranny excepted of course. Twenty years later, you will have a hope of removing them again. At least they will be a wrench size you have heard of.:D

[SafeAirOne]

I remove the entire seat box, floor boards on both sides, and tranny tunnel. No point in trying to cut corners. It just makes the other job a pain.


x2!!

You can keep the seat box in place and slide the tranny back from the bottom, but why would you want to? It's only about a dozen or a dozen and a half fasteners to remove to get the seat box out. It'll take the same amount of time and involve a whole lot less swearing and you won't be working on your back trying to move the transmission/transfer case and you won't be trying to align the disk and install the pressure plate through a keyhole if you just pull the seatbox.

Just one guy's opinion--Skin that cat any way you want.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1303/4658396818_a0ef784fdd_b.jpg

[gudjeon]

Exackerly! The seat box bolts are not even the worst of the rusty ones to get out! The seat box is the easy part. :thumb-up:

[greenmeanie]

To remove the gearbox the seatbox has to come out. To replace the clutch the gearbox merely has to be slid back. Seats are removed to give clearance for the hoist and to stop them getting damaged. The floors, tunnels and seatbox cover plates come out to give access to the bell housing bolts and allow you to pick it up with the hoist.

I just don't believe in taking it apart further than I have to.

[scott]

if ya got an o/d or rear pto ya won't be able to slide it back enough and you will have to hoist it up and out of the way

[dgraham29]

Many thanks to all of you who took the time to offer your experiences and advice. I will pass all along to my mechanic.
I do not have an overdrive or PTO, so maybe the trans will slide back far enough. In any event, seat box should come out without problems, as all bolts are new.
The Rover supposedly had a "new clutch" installed before I bought it last November, and I saw it when disassembled, so know something was installed. Unfortunately, it slips badly when it gets warm, and I haven't even put 30 miles on it since I acquired. Tried shortening the rod to slave cylinder, but only minor improvement. Can't go anywhere like this. Sure didn't intend to have to undertake such a repair so soon. Hope the Series IIA gets a long life out of a clutch.
I will pass along my experience with the repair process.
Certainly welcome more comments.