Next steps?

[morgant]

Okay, in an odd reversal, my Toyota sedan is now the one that needs many thousands of dollars worth of work and is uninspected, but the new radiator is finally in the SIII and it's driving okay. I just took it for about 50 miles of driving (equivalent of my commute to work, but not back) and while it ran warm, it never seemed to get overheated.

I'm damn tempted to put the few thousand dollars into the Land Rover instead of the Toyota, but here are the remaining issues:


Replace rear axle breather (http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9464)
Swap out speedometer cable (http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7298) (which I have, although it's seems to be missing a piece from the factory)
Rear right 3-leaf parabolic sags considerably
Replace rear shocks (which I have)
2nd gear seems to sometimes grind a bit when going up from 1st, but not down from 3rd


So, considering #1, #2, and #4 are fairly inexpensive, what order and plan of attack do you all suggest? Obviously #3 & #4 can just be done at the same time, but I'd need assistance or to take it to someone (and if I take it to someone I'll just have them do #1 at the same).

Does #5 sound more (clutch or transmission issues) or less (selector adjustment) serious?

Considering the short timeframe in which I'd likely want to get the repairs done, do you suggest taking it to a shop and if so, who do you suggest in the Burlington/Shelburne vicinity that will work on Series vehicles? The 4x4 Center (http://the4x4center.com/)? Or is there someone w/jackstands and such that'd like to visit this fairly green shade-tree mechanics's shade-tree (or I could bring it to yours) for some mentoring in a rear leaf spring & shock swap?

Addendum: Oh, and where can I get my keys (ignition, but doors too, if possible) copied so I have some spares?

[bmohan55]

I've done 1, 2, 3 & 4 on mine, not hard if it comes apart easily, and I'm not that talented. Can't comment on #5.

[scott]

if our host doesn't carry key blanks i think rovahfarms does

[TSR53]

Addendum: Oh, and where can I get my keys (ignition, but doors too, if possible) copied so I have some spares?

FACTORY Genuine door key blank barrel lock sets available from stock.

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/Product/medium/RNE339.JPG
RNE337 BARREL LOCK - MATCHED PAIR (http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-4141-barrel-lock-matched-pair.aspx)
RNE338 BARREL LOCK - SET OF THREE (http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-4142-barrel-lock-set-of-three.aspx)
RNE339 BARREL LOCK - SET OT FOUR (http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-4143-barrel-lock-set-of-four.aspx)

[scott]

thom


FACTORY Genuine door key blank barrel lock sets available from stock.


RNE337 BARREL LOCK - MATCHED PAIR (http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-4141-barrel-lock-matched-pair.aspx)
RNE338 BARREL LOCK - SET OF THREE (http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-4142-barrel-lock-set-of-three.aspx)
RNE339 BARREL LOCK - SET OT FOUR (http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-4143-barrel-lock-set-of-four.aspx)

can these be fitted to the ignition switch?

[TSR53]

Just double checked with Les and yes these will work.

[TSR53]

who do you suggest in the Burlington/Shelburne vicinity that will work on Series vehicles?

Try Taylor at TCongleton Rovers - right here at RN.
http://www.tcongletonrovers.com/Company.html

[Les Parker]

Also :- RNE832

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/searchadv.aspx?IsSubmit=true&SearchTerm=rne832

If you need just the ignition barrel and keys.

[morgant]

Thanks for all the followup, esp. Thompson S. (http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/member.php?u=2) for the tips on keys. I'm now noticing that I'll need to replace my door latches w/anti-burst style as well (someone must've put Series II/IIA doors and/or latches on my '82 Series III at some point). Another project. :)

I certainly believe the leaf springs and shocks to be something I can reasonably do. I'll pick up some 3-ton double-locking jack stands. Unfortunately, while my toolkit seems to be fairly rebuilt now, the place I have easiest access to most any tool I'd need (plus the jack stands I gave away many years ago... silly me) is in southern Vermont.

Looking at the condition of the rear parabolics, I'll need the following:


(x2) rear parabolics
(x4) rear U-bolts w/nuts
(x2) spring bolt w/locknut
(x2) spring bushing
(x2) chassis bushing
(x4) shackle bolt w/locknut
(x2) cotter pins for attaching lower end of shock to spring bottom plate


I'm assuming I should spray all nuts & bolts w/WD-40 every day until I do it (hopefully this weekend), then attack them w/a breaker bar when the time comes. Spring bottom plate & shackles can probably just be soaked in coke overnight and then POR-15'd, but (as indicated above) I'm guessing I'll have to replace all nuts & bolts.

Any good tutorials for installing new parabolics? Where should I position the jack stands? Also, I'll need something else for raising/lowering the rear axle, correct?

[bkreutz]

WD-40 doesn't do much for rust, use PB Blaster or Kroil and it will make things much easier.

[Sputnicker]

I just installed a set on my Series II. Your list looks good. The only thing I added was a 1" longer brake hose to allow for more spring travel. My Rocky Mountain springs came with the U-bolts, nuts and spring bushings (already installed). Not sure whether that would be true for other brands, so check to be sure. There's also a chance that you may need new inboard shackles as they are threaded and could get damaged.

I had a lot of trouble with one of the front bolts and had to cut it out with a an angle grinder and abrasive blade. Be ready to do the same. A torch would also work, but the burning rubber will stink up your garage.

The other tricky part is removing and installing the chassis bushings. This was one of the top contenders for worst jobs on a Land Rover (well deserved) and you will find a lot of advice in the archives. I made a puller with some 1/2" all-thread and a variety of nuts, washers, plates and sockets. This allowed me to remove all but the outer steel shell. To remove the outer shells, I first cut them longitudinally with a hacksaw in two places (6:00 and 8:00), being careful not to cut too deep. Then I used a rounded cold chisel to peel back the section between the two cuts. With that section gone and the tension relieved, the rest of the sleeve will drive out easily.

To install the new ones, I reconfigured the all-thread puller. The big washers on the bottom of the shocks fit perfectly over the inner sleeve so the forces are all bearing on the outer sleeve. Behind that washer I put a piece of 1/4" plate with a 1/2" hole, followed by a nut, which I drove with an impact wrench. Before installation I made sure the bore was smooth and lubricated.

With the chassis secured on jack stands, it's fairly easy to maneuver the springs with a conventional floor jack. I'd install the front bolts first as the shackles make the rear easier to line up. You may need some levers and a friend to get all the holes to line up for the bolts.

There were some other good suggestions in the archives, so look them over before you decide on an approach.

Good luck!

[morgant]

WD-40 doesn't do much for rust, use PB Blaster or Kroil and it will make things much easier.

Excellent.


There's also a chance that you may need new inboard shackles as they are threaded and could get damaged.

I was wondering that. I sort of assumed I'd order some and return them if I managed to get through the project without needing them.


I had a lot of trouble with one of the front bolts and had to cut it out with a an angle grinder and abrasive blade. Be ready to do the same. A torch would also work, but the burning rubber will stink up your garage.

Fortunately, I have no garage, so I'll just hope for a cool breeze. Truthfully, I have easier access to an angle grinder than a torch, so it'll be more for cooling than dispersing the stench of burning rubber.


With the chassis secured on jack stands, it's fairly easy to maneuver the springs with a conventional floor jack. I'd install the front bolts first as the shackles make the rear easier to line up. You may need some levers and a friend to get all the holes to line up for the bolts.

I greatly appreciate the warning/tips on the chassis bushings, I hadn't even thought about that. I'm definitely going to need to track down a friend (preferably w/a floor jack) to help out as it'll end up unfinished if I attempt to tackle it alone. :D


Good luck!

Thanks, I'll use all I can get!

Now, one new question: How can I tell whether my '82 Series III 88" is standard or military?

[yorker]

Now, one new question: How can I tell whether my '82 Series III 88" is standard or military?

What does your rear crossmember look like? if it has slanted ends it is likely civilian. if it is all squared it is military.

Also when you do the u bolts on a Series you can slightly drill out the spring plates to use the bigger and easier to source US u bolts. I usually just get my u bolts made up at a local auto place.

[bmohan55]

When I did my rear leafs I found this write-up from a UK board quite helpful

...Both sides of the vehicle need to be level... (all 4 corners on axle stands is a good way)

Get the pin of the axle in the spring, and fit the U bolts.

Fit the front bush to the chassis, then the shackle plates to the chassis bush. Then put a jack between the axle and the chassis, and another under the spring...its only by wedging it that you can get them thing to line up. Adjust the jacks until you have it where you want it, and slide the bolt in. Copper slip all three bolts before fitting.

Quick word of warning...dont be tempted to line the holes in the spring bush and the chassis with your finger. That way having three fingers lies.....seen it done. Messy. Though the bolts went in easy with the extra lubricant....

I too used daily applications of PB Blaster, Nutcracker and another penatrating oil I got from work for about a week before I started the job, maybe I was lucky but I had no problems taking it apart.

I keep looking for the writ-up they had on replacing the chassis bushings...

[morgant]

What does your rear crossmember look like? if it has slanted ends it is likely civilian. if it is all squared it is military.

Slanted ends, however the rear crossmember was definitely replaced at some point. :\


When I did my rear leafs I found this write-up from a UK board quite helpful

Do you have a link to the specific one?


Both sides of the vehicle need to be level... (all 4 corners on axle stands is a good way)

...

Then put a jack between the axle and the chassis, and another under the spring...its only by wedging it that you can get them thing to line up. Adjust the jacks until you have it where you want it, and slide the bolt in.

Like a short bottle jack between the axle and chassis? I'm really starting to think I'll need access to a full garage to pull this off if it's best to use four jack stands, a floor jack and a bottle jack.


Quick word of warning...dont be tempted to line the holes in the spring bush and the chassis with your finger. That way having three fingers lies.....seen it done. Messy.

Okay, now I'm adding that one between every line on my checklist as a reminder: Don't use fingers to line up holes on springs! :thumb-up:

[bmohan55]

I used two LR bottle jacks and I only had the rear up on jack-stands cuz I couldn't find one of them.

Here is a link to the site, great info.

http://forum.landrovernet.com/forumdisplay.php?f=68

[stomper]

I have a great article that was published in Land Rover Enthusiast Magazine on how to change the leaf springs. (sorry, I don't have the Month/year of the issue off hand. I believe it was written by RoversNorth. They wrote several workshop articles with pictures etc. for this magazine. I checked their website, and I just learned the Magazine is no longer in publication :(

Does anyone at RoversNorth have the articles they wrote for Land Rover Enthusiast? Could they be added to this forum? There was also an excellent one on replacing drum brakes with photos and step by step instructions which I hang onto for the next time it becomes necessary on my Rover.

[morgant]

5. 2nd gear seems to sometimes grind a bit when going up from 1st, but not down from 3rd

...

Does #5 sound more (clutch or transmission issues) or less (selector adjustment) serious?

Initially it seemed like it'd only grind going into second after driving it quite some distance (25 or so miles, so the transmission was well warmed). I'd been trying to baby the transmission (but it'd been a while since I drove a manual gearbox and I was still trying to get used to RHD), so I put even more effort into it (and was getting quite comfortable w/RHD and the truck's handling in general) and that seemed to help.

However, on Friday it seemed to be having some difficulty going up into 3rd as well. I tried double clutching it for the rest of the day and didn't run into any more issues. Today as well. It performs like a champ when I double clutch it. So, does that seem like syncro, clutch, or both? Or worse?

The only other thing I've noticed is that every great once in a while it physically can't click into 2nd/1st after having been in 4th/3rd. If put it back into 3rd/4th and start to let the clutch out so it grabs and turns a bit, then I can find 2nd/1st.

I know I'm going to need to rebuild the transmission at some point, but want to put it off as long as possible. I'll keep double clutching as long as I can.

I certainly have to have the rear springs done to pass inspection by August, but should I be doing the clutch first? Please tell me that it's easier to do clutch work on a RHD. :D

Update: Definitely doing the clutch first. It now stalls the engine if I don't let out the clutch in neutral fast enough when downshifting in heavy town traffic. Certainly drivable that way, esp. w/a little more practice, but time to do the clutch. Should I just order the clutch kit (http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-6544-clutch-kit-series-iii.aspx)?

BTW - I'm starting the PB Blaster treatment on rear springs' & shocks' nuts & bolts. Hoping to schedule that for the last weekend of June.