View Full Version : Swivel Balls

03-08-2007, 05:18 AM
How should I judge if my swivel balls need to be replaced vs just replacing seals. There is so rust on them and they sure don't look new but on the other hand they don't look all that bad either.

03-08-2007, 06:27 AM
It is hard to tell without seeing them first hand. Mine were a little rusted and pitted, I removed them and cleaned off the rust and filled the pits with something- it has lasted fine since 1997. Eventually I'll need to replace them, no doubt, but that has bought me at least 10 years plenty of time to sock away the $ for new ones.

If you think you can fix them so they don't leak and don't tear up new seals you should be ok.

03-08-2007, 12:08 PM
Mine were pitted and tearing up the seals, so I pulled the knuckles off and pulled the seal, and then cleaned then really well. I took a fine screwdriver and cleaned out the rust pits, and then very carfully took some epoxy and put it in the holes. After it hardens, you can sand the epoxy down, being carfull not to hit the rest of the ball. then spray the epoxy with some clear spray paint type stuff. It worked great, I used new seals after word, but its been 5 years and they don't leak.

03-08-2007, 01:23 PM
I had my swivel balls repaired. They were in nice shape to begin with, but I had them stripped, repaired, and then chromed. They still weep a little oil, but that's to be expected.

1961 109 WAGON
03-08-2007, 02:30 PM
after reading this post i went out and pulled my fill plugs and nothing...
so i pulled both drain plugs...still nothing:mad: as far as i can remember when my father owned it, he never checked or filled them (1985) i changed the oil in the engine for the first time last month since 1992!!!!!
well i have very few pits, refilled them with 80-90wt, turned them side to side , and still no leaks.hope they dont drain out overnite!

03-08-2007, 04:18 PM
I have a 1974 88 that was up on blocks for the last 20 plus years. I drained the old 90 wt oil and replaced with new, I have been driving it and no leaks, pretty cool for a 33 year old vehicle.

03-08-2007, 05:46 PM
Like mentioned^^^^^ it is best to take off the retainer and seal to inspect the surface. I started restoring a ser1 with what appeared to have good swicel chrome. Upon disassembly, there was major pitting at the bottom of where the seal rides on the chrome housing.

I took my swivel housings to an industrial chrome shop where they stripped the original chrome off. I carefully ground out the pits and MIG welded them up. Then I very carefully filed the welds down to blend in with the original surface. I then sanded and polished like I have never done before. Lastly, I took them back to the industrial chrome shop and they rechromed them for me.

The original chrome is very thin by industrial standards at only around .002" thick. Rechromed, they now have a hard chrome layer of about .004-.005". I priced out buying replacements and rechroming was the way to go for me. Four years and no leaks yet.

Jon M.

03-09-2007, 09:36 AM
when the start to pit,and unable to hold the 90 wt. they shuold be repalced.
some people put the new lithium grease in the pins,thats the stuff that comes in those funky tubes,and is meant for the disco ,rrover swivel pins