A fe Questions

[albersj51]

I figured I'd get some questions out of the way in a single post:

1. The Series IIA Workshop Manual CD-ROM...Any good? Does it have everything a newbie, like myself, will need?
2. Below is a pic of my driver side rear wheel. I noticed it looks oily, now that it sat for a couple of days I see a brownish puddle on the outside rim lip. Am I correct in assuming I need to replace the hub seals? Anything else it is likely to be? Is there anything needed other than new seals? Want to make sure I order everything up-front.
3. Anyone know where I should look for a used, or reasonably priced new, 88" Hood Stick Set? No offense to our hosts, but $1,000 for the frame and canvas top is a little more than I'd like to spend. :)

Thank you, as always!

J

[czenkov]

Those are seriously hard to come by. But they pop up now and then. $1000? Actually not bad from the prices I see for used out there.

[bkreutz]

I believe the CD version is the same as the paper workshop manual, I just prefer to have something in my hand while working on it. (maybe I'm just from the older generation). Regarding your leak, is there grease/oil/brake fluid on the inside of the wheel? Could be a number of things, if it's just on the outside I'd suspect the gasket on the drive flange or the fit of the little cap over the end of the axle. I try to take the thing apart first because it seems that the one thing I don't order is the part I need.

[crankin]

I just recently learned that if the axle breather is dirty/clogged that it will cause that puddle.

[albersj51]

Czenkov: Yeah, I'm having a hell of a time trying to find them...I've thought about going to the UK where they're a lot cheaper, but I think shipping will make it less cost effective.

bkreutz: I plan on printing the entire manual and putting it in a binder so I have a hardcopy of it. Nothing in the wheel well that I can see. I looked really closely at the cap and I see a slight drip between the plate behind the cap and the rest of the axel, so I think you're right its the gasket on the drive flange.

crankin: I'll check/clean that while I am in there. Thanks for the tip!

Thank you all for the help! Any other info is greatly appreciated!

J

[mongoswede]

by "hood stick set" are you refering to a soft top canvas and supports?

[albersj51]

Yep! I may have the terminology wrong, but thats what it was referred to as on a British site. Hood Stick Set meaning the Canvas top frame.

[Jim-ME]

The workshop CD is print protected so you can't print it off. Otherwise it is the same as the green bible.
Jim

[mongoswede]

The workshop CD is print protected so you can't print it off. Otherwise it is the same as the green bible.
Jim

there is always the "print screen" trick.

[luckyjoe]

The workshop CD is print protected so you can't print it off.

The "old" versions (WSM, optional parts catalog, SII, SIII, Military, etc...) are available on the web in PDF format. They print fine. Old truck = old manual = perfect!

I do own an all-in-one version of the Green Bible, but in the garage I find that printing an exploded view and taping it to a piece of cardboard is much more convenient. I mainly use my GB for study prior to the job...

Regards,

[Jim-ME]

The print screen trick never worked for me which is why I sold the CD and use the green bible exclusively. FWIW in my case the CD was a waste of money.
Jim

[mongoswede]

The print screen trick never worked for me which is why I sold the CD and use the green bible exclusively. FWIW in my case the CD was a waste of money.
Jim


well its 1) "print screen"
2) paste and edit into Paint.

[Jim-ME]

So happy you shared that. It's much easier to read the book.
Jim

[mongoswede]

well its 1) "print screen"
2) paste and edit into Paint.


Of course I am in no way endorsing the piracy of copyright protected materials....yada yada eplurbum unimum battlestar galactica.

[albersj51]

Thanks everyone! Definitely glad i asked! Sounds like the CD won't work for me.

I read a post where someone recommended using Right Stuff sealer/gasket maker instead of a flange seal and felt washer...any one think that's good/bad/indifferent?

Also the oil dripping out is that gear oil from the rear differential or is there oil in the hubs? Thank!

J

[TriedStone]

I read a post where someone recommended using Right Stuff sealer/gasket maker instead of a flange seal and felt washer...any one think that's good/bad/indifferent?

J
Excellent stuff, I've use it since 1995 and never had a leak. As with all sealants make sure both surfaces are clean and free of oily residue.

[albersj51]

Thanks TriedStone!

Any info on the oil? I know its a dumb question, but this is my first Rover and my first 4X4. So, is the oil its leaking coming from the rear differential and I just need to make sure its full of the righ oil? Or, is there a place to put oil in the hubs and if so, what oil does it take?

Thanks!

J

[stomper]

Having fought with my rear hub seal a couple of times, I actually would opt for the paper gasket. I tried sealing mine twice with silicone based sealants, and it still leaked. I must not have had something right.

The oil is the differential oil, EP90 or some other variant of the same, that you are losing. Just jack up the axel really high before you undo the hub, and you will get minimal leakage when you crack the hub seal apart. Top up the diferential when you are done.

Or, you could drain the diff prior to starting the project, if you plan on replenishing the rear with all fresh oil.

[Tim Smith]

It's hard to tell but I think I can see a loose bolt on your flange. Looking at where the oil is coming out from, it definitely looks like majority of oil is coming out the flange seal.

You might get lucky and find out the flange is just loose. Give that a try while you are waiting for the parts to arrive.

[crankin]

Also, the wheel nuts look to be turned around... the bevel piece fits very nice against the wheel.

[scott]

Also, the wheel nuts look to be turned around... the bevel piece fits very nice against the wheel.

some lugs are beveled on both ends. mine are, save countless nanoseconds when bolting the wheels back on as i don't have to look to orientate the lugs

[crankin]

some lugs are beveled on both ends. mine are, save countless nanoseconds when bolting the wheels back on as i don't have to look to orientate the lugs

Those tricky Brits...

[bkreutz]

Using sealants can be somewhat tricky. The key is getting one that's compatible to oil and grease. Some of the RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) sealers can be dissolved by oil. "Right Stuff" works well, Toyota has some stuff they call FIPG (form in place gasket) that works super, I found out about it when I worked at a Lexus dealer (I've since retired from the trade, 43 years was enough:D) it's a bit pricier then most of the other brands, but it's the best I've ever used.

[albersj51]

You guys are awesome! I'll be rewiring the rover and putting in an alternator this weekend; I'll be sure to take care of the rear Axel then as well. Thanks for all of the help!

[NickDawson]

As many others have said, the CD has some challenges.
For me, it was totally unusable - wanted an older version of Acrobat or something - tried on many different computers, and I'm no slouch in the nerd department. Couldn't get it to work. Its a coaster for beer now.

[albersj51]

Thanks Nick; the overwhelming response seems to be the CD isn't worth it. I'll just pick up a used one somewhere if possible.

[TedW]

FWIW I've done most of my repairs with the Haynes manual. It's like the Cliff's Notes of the GB, IMO. Not a replacement for the bible, but very handy to start with.

[stomper]

There is a guy in Ashby Mass. Who is selling a used Green Bible right now on Land Rover exchange. Some other parts included. If you contact him, he may be willing to separate out the books. I won't post the other stuff he is selling out of respect for our hosts, Here is his info though.

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _
...... Factory repair manual used,........ Will sell as a lot $80.00 or individually

Kevin-Scott Crawford.
Ashby, Massachusetts, United States of America - 29 May 2010

e-mail: gumabby@yahoo.ie

[albersj51]

Thanks, guys!

Stomper: Just looked it up, his is a 1974 Series III; is that the same manual as the Series IIA? I have a 1967. Thanks!

[stomper]

I'm pretty sure there is only one manual. Mine has both the IIA and III stuff separated out in the text, as well as the 6 cyl info for the 109 models.

[albersj51]

Tim_Smith: You were absolutely correct! The flange bolts were not tight! I think the gunk that had built up was making them tight. When I cleaned it I could easily tighten them again. All but one are tight now. Its as if the one that wont tighten starts to, then pops out again. Anyone know the size of these so I can try and find one at the hardware store as opposed to paying shipping and waiting a week? Thanks!

J

[albersj51]

Stomper: His book is for the Series III only, oh well. Thanks for the heads up though!

J

[bkreutz]

Take one of the good ones out and bring it with you to match (hopefully it's not whitworth), I would suggest going to a good auto parts store or bolt distributor (Fastenal for example) Most of the hardware store bolts are grade 2 (or less:eek:) I wouldn't use anything less than a grade 5 (which used to be the standard in hardware store, many years ago before the "big boxes" took over)


Tim_Smith: You were absolutely correct! The flange bolts were not tight! I think the gunk that had built up was making them tight. When I cleaned it I could easily tighten them again. All but one are tight now. Its as if the one that wont tighten starts to, then pops out again. Anyone know the size of these so I can try and find one at the hardware store as opposed to paying shipping and waiting a week? Thanks!

J

[albersj51]

Makes sense...I was hoping to keep all of them in so I could keep as much fluid in as possible, but in hindsight, taking one with me is the most logical idea. Thanks!

[Tim Smith]

Glad to have seen it. :D

Take one of the good ones out and bring it with you to match (hopefully it's not whitworth), I would suggest going to a good auto parts store or bolt distributor (Fastenal for example) Most of the hardware store bolts are grade 2 (or less:eek:) I wouldn't use anything less than a grade 5 (which used to be the standard in hardware store, many years ago before the "big boxes" took over)
Agreed. I have seen the bolts sheer off too but I suspect they were loose prior. If yours have been loose for a while, then it's probably best to replace them all. They should be a standard bolt in fine thread, not metric. Not sure of the size but I bet its 7/16 shaft size.

[albersj51]

Thanks again, Tim! Agreed, I'll be making a trip to the hardware store tomorrow...and getting Grade 8 bolts :thumb-up:

[albersj51]

I was getting ready to drain and fill the rear differential on my 67 SIIA; found the fill plug (most important part!) and i THINK I found the drain plug. Can someone confirm that this is, in fact, the drain plug? If so, how on earth does it come off? Thanks!

[bkreutz]

That is the drain plug, what I use to remove it is a "drag link socket" it looks like a big fat screwdriver bit that fits on a ratchet. Not sure if they're made anymore, I've had mine for over 40 years. I imagine a big screwdriver would work (depends on how tight it is).

[albersj51]

you are a scholar and a gentleman! I'll search for a big fat screwdriver and see what I can do. I know my 15/16" socket fit the fill plug, which always comes off first :thumb-up:, but felt a little loose, so I'll see if something else will fit better.

[yorker]

I was getting ready to drain and fill the rear differential on my 67 SIIA; found the fill plug (most important part!) and i THINK I found the drain plug. Can someone confirm that this is, in fact, the drain plug? If so, how on earth does it come off? Thanks!

I use a wrench for those. You simply stick the open end of the wrench into the slot and turn it. :thumb-up:

[albersj51]

Thanks, yorker!

[greenmeanie]

Its as if the one that wont tighten starts to, then pops out again. Anyone know the size of these so I can try and find one at the hardware store as opposed to paying shipping and waiting a week? Thanks!

J

The flange bolts are 3/8 BSF X 1 19/32 so you won't find them at the hardware store. Pay your money and wait.

Before ordering take another bolt and try it in that hole. If that does the same then in all likely hood you have a stripped thread. If that is the case you can:
1. Try and find a BSF tap and see if there is anything to clean up
2. Find a second hand hub. Just be aware there are different ones so get one that matches the rest of te hubs on your truck
3. Drill all six holes, helicoil them and then go and buy imperial hardware from the store.

[albersj51]

Greenmeanie,

I am afraid you are correct, sir. The thread inside the hub appears to be stripped. I am trying to find a BSF helicoil, but so far no go.

Can you think of any possible negatives about drilling them out and going to a slightly larger standard/metric thread/bolt on that side only? Would this weaken it or cause the ride to suffer (I know, thats almost laughable :D).

Thanks!

J