SIII Ignition Switch--High Failure Rate...

[SafeAirOne]

For the second time in 5 years, I've almost been left stranded by the ignition switch on my SIII.

The first time, I was miles out in the desert when I turned off my engine to do a little map reading. It wouldn't start back up because the "energized in run position" wire wouldn't energize. I replaced the ignition swith.

The same thing happened to me tonight, except I was in a town 20 miles from my house. Fortunately, it was pretty easy to bypass the switch both times, but it is still a PITA and shouldn't be necessary.

Any other SIII owners have similar problems with their ignition switches??

[Apis Mellifera]

Still on the original switch (and key) in my '73. 85K miles so far.

[mongoswede]

If you are not familiar with the basic wiring concepts now is a good time to learn. The ignition system in the series Land Rovers is so basic you can easily bypass the switch if it goes bad. The 68 109 parked in my garage at the moment has nothing more than a starter, coil, plug wires, and distributor and I can start it by giving power to the distributor and jumping 12V to the Starter. There are also alternatives to using the stock ignition switch as its quite possible the quality on them is low...Early Lucas electrical components were not known for their usefulness and reliability. If you don't care so much about remaining stock you could always go to something like a Battery/alternator master kill switch and a spring return button of one sort or another for the starter.

[SafeAirOne]

If you are not familiar with the basic wiring concepts now is a good time to learn.

Oh, believe me...I'm super-familiar with the electrical system in my 109. Just wondering if anyone else has gone through ignition switches as fast as I seem to be.

I considered the use of a run/stop switch plus cold start and starter buttons, but it becomes a little too messy. I'm no purist, but I try to keep the amount of non-standard stuff to a minimum.

[jac04]

If you are not familiar with the basic wiring concepts now is a good time to learn. The ignition system in the series Land Rovers is so basic you can easily bypass the switch if it goes bad.

I think he knows his basic wiring concepts:


Fortunately, it was pretty easy to bypass the switch both times, but it is still a PITA and shouldn't be necessary.

[graniterover]

My late IIa switch was bad and I robbed the one of my SIII, which I still need to replace. They were identical.


For the second time in 5 years, I've almost been left stranded by the ignition switch on my SIII.

The first time, I was miles out in the desert when I turned off my engine to do a little map reading. It wouldn't start back up because the "energized in run position" wire wouldn't energize. I replaced the ignition swith.

The same thing happened to me tonight, except I was in a town 20 miles from my house. Fortunately, it was pretty easy to bypass the switch both times, but it is still a PITA and shouldn't be necessary.

Any other SIII owners have similar problems with their ignition switches??

[scott]

what do you have on your key chain? i've always thought too heavy a key chain will put undue stress on the swtches internals maybe leading to failure.

[albersj51]

I saw this in one of my other cars. I pulled the switch and cleaned it and that fixed it. Also heard too much weight can cause premature failure.

[mongoswede]

Oh, believe me...I'm super-familiar with the electrical system in my 109. Just wondering if anyone else has gone through ignition switches as fast as I seem to be.

I considered the use of a run/stop switch plus cold start and starter buttons, but it becomes a little too messy. I'm no purist, but I try to keep the amount of non-standard stuff to a minimum.


Sorry, my posting sounds a little condescending... I was not trying to say it that way.


My thought is to mount a kill switch somewhere that is relatively hidden so it doubles as an immobilizer. Then have a button on the dash..or one of those aircraft missile "arm" toggles. :D

[stomper]

I've always wanted one of those "missle arm" toggles in a vehicle. Even if it wasn't hooked up, just as a conversation piece! I would go with the "don't touch that" dialouge, just to see how long someone would go before they pressed it.:thumb-up:

[mongoswede]

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/images/uploads/3856_1517_large.jpg

$10.96

[SafeAirOne]

Sorry, my posting sounds a little condescending... I was not trying to say it that way.



No sweat--I thought it was kind of funny, actually--there I was reading the post, wishing I had fewer opportunities to become so familiar with my electrical system. :D

In the end, it looks as if I'll be bypassing the factory ignition switch and using a remote box containing 2 switches: One run/stop switch and one momentary on / center off / momentary on switch for the glow plugs and starter circuits.

The nice thing about that setup is that I can do it without any permanent modifications to anything at all, the factory setup can be reconnected in seconds and the weak point in the system (the ignition switch) is completely bypassed.

As for the keychain, I have 5 other keys on it. Shouldn't be an issue, since there is an entire steering column lock mechanism between the key lock and the ignition switch on a SIII (unlike pre SIII switches that mount directly to the back of the lock.

I don't remember whether the ignition switch was disassemble-able or not. I seem to recall it looking pretty disposable. Even still, I don't think I'd go for the clean/reinstall because it's just such a bear to get this switch out and in. Probably easy for elves and gnomes to get their hands in there, but it's a real difficulty for those with human-sized appendages, so I'd just [someday] re-replace with another new unit and be done with it (for another 5 years, at least).

[SafeAirOne]

Built this virtually failure-proof remote to bypass the factory ignition switch today. This should put an end to my ignition switch reliablility issues:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1271/4691880389_37e5cfd34e_b.jpg

[bkreutz]

But you need this "kit" to make it work.
http://originalmodelaparts.com/Misc/LucasSmokeKit.htm

(couldn't resist, I tried)

[mongoswede]

But you need this "kit" to make it work.
http://originalmodelaparts.com/Misc/LucasSmokeKit.htm

(couldn't resist, I tried)

I suspect the humor of the auction will wear off when there is a winning bidder who won't be expecting to pay $2000+ for a bottle of smoke. At which point the seller will owe ebay a hefty sellers fee.

[bkreutz]

I don't think there is a buyer or a seller, a friend of mine sent me the link, but looking at the dates and the address I think the ad itself is a "joke" as well. It did make me smile though.

[SafeAirOne]

But you need this "kit" to make it work.
http://originalmodelaparts.com/Misc/LucasSmokeKit.htm


I don't think I'm out yet...There always seems to be plenty of that left in my electrical system. ;)

[Terrys]

I don't think there is a buyer or a seller, a friend of mine sent me the link, but looking at the dates and the address I think the ad itself is a "joke" as well. It did make me smile though.
The Q&As are as funny as the auction. I had a bottle of Lucas Smoke for years, but gave it to someone as a gag when they burned up their car.

[TeriAnn]

Oh, believe me...I'm super-familiar with the electrical system in my 109. Just wondering if anyone else has gone through ignition switches as fast as I seem to be.

I don't know about the Series III switch but a Series II combination ignition/lead lamp switch is designed to only handle about 13-14 amps though the ignition part of the circuit. Could a SIII have a low rating too? Do you have anything that draws more current than a stock electrical system? If yes you may be overloading the switch current rating.

I solved my problem by adding a relay. No the only thing the ignition switch powers is the main power relay which in turn runs all the switched electrics.

Just a thought,

.

[SafeAirOne]

Do you have anything that draws more current than a stock electrical system? If yes you may be overloading the switch current rating... ...Just a thought,


I can't think of any extra loads on that switch...My glow plugs are on a relayed circuit as are the 4 Hella 500s. Being a diesel, I've got a higher-powered starter, but that shouldn't matter as it's only the solenoid circuit that goes through the ignition switch, not the power to the starter motor itself. So I think I'm gonna say "no," nothing extra through the switch.

I wish I could remember where I got the replacement ignition switch 4 or 5 years ago. That might tell me something, as I was occasionally ordering from a supplier of questionable [quality]replacement parts back then...