Roof Rivet Question

[John O from Jersey]

Was going to hijack Thixon's "Rivet gun on sale" thread but thought better of it ()
Anyone know exactly what size semi-tubular rivet is needed to join the roof to the roof drip rail?? I had written it down a year ago from a previous thread and now can't find it or the old thread.

Also, what is the best way to set those?? Is there some type of .401 shank for an air hamer/rivet gun or is there some type of squeezer involved??

Thanks!!!

John O

[Dav1550]

Truss/Brazier head, Semi-tubular aluminum …….
3/16 dia. X 5/16 L ……are near exact replacement.
3/16 dia. X 3/8 L …… Is what I ended up using, as I was a bit more generous with the sealer and after re- galvanizing the gutter was a shade thicker.

Semi-tubular can be set with a rivet gun and diff, but found a hand rivet squeezer the better method for ease of use and control……. Especially so when say setting the near 100 rivets of a 109 roof.

Cheers,
Dave

[SafeAirOne]

Use a hand squeeze and the a tubular rivet die set. Not sure how it'd work out with any other method.

Here's what I use for doing solid rivets. It's a really nice stainless steel squeeze at a good price: http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,4749.html

Hanson rivet sells the die sets for tubular rivets: http://www.hansonrivet.com/w83.htm

[John O from Jersey]

Thanks a bunch - that's exactly what I needed. Carpal tunnel here I come .

JO

[SGS714]

Use a hand squeeze and the a tubular rivet die set. Not sure how it'd work out with any other method.

Here's what I use for doing solid rivets. It's a really nice stainless steel squeeze at a good price: http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,4749.html

Hanson rivet sells the die sets for tubular rivets: http://www.hansonrivet.com/w83.htm

Is this what you would use for door and top weather stripping also? I am not happy with the way Pop Rivets look at all nor with their consistency in holding.

[SafeAirOne]

Is this what you would use for door and top weather stripping also? I am not happy with the way Pop Rivets look at all nor with their consistency in holding.

I suppose you could, with the right rivet. I'm not entirely sure tubular rivets are the way to go with this application. I don't know what rovers originally had holding the weatherstripping on, but blind (pop) rivets are the easiest to install and remove when the time comes to replace the weatherstripping.



BTW...John O...The Yard store has an economical ($65) light-to-medium duty imported rivet squeeze that would be sufficient for this roof job:

http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,3897.html

[Dav1550]

Is this what you would use for door and top weather stripping also? I am not happy with the way Pop Rivets look at all nor with their consistency in holding.

Yes, Semi-tubular rivets were originally used in installation of door seals, along with glue. I wouldn’t say that semi-tubular rivets will do a better at holding door seals than blind rivets, but I’d be sure to use a good adhesive such as 3m Super weatherstrip adhesive which ever rivet is used.
Cheers,
Dave
74 109sw

[Bertha]

Is this what you would use for door and top weather stripping also? I am not happy with the way Pop Rivets look at all nor with their consistency in holding.

Tube rivets are what originally held the weatherstripping in place in most areas. The areas where there wasn't access to both sides with a tool, had pop rivets.

[SGS714]

Yes, Semi-tubular rivets were originally used in installation of door seals, along with glue. I wouldn’t say that semi-tubular rivets will do a better at holding door seals than blind rivets, but I’d be sure to use a good adhesive such as 3m Super weatherstrip adhesive which ever rivet is used.
Cheers,
Dave
74 109sw

Perfect....And not having any natural mechanical ability or a mentor in the art of truck repair/rebuild I had no idea one would use an adhesive also....makes perfect sense.