ford starter?

[feildpickedrover]

My starter is shot on my rover, and ive been cranking it with the hand crank to start it, its not too bad, but ive got a bad wrist, and its starting to swell, so a starter is needed, now, i cant afford a starter, and i was thinking of getting my current one rebuilt, but i read somewhere that a ford starter will bolt in, is this true? because ive got a brand new starter bought for a 68 ford dump truck in my basement. and if itd work i would throw it in

[gudjeon]

Never heard of starter types being able to cross over to a LR. Doesn't mean you can't see if it can. You can buy the individual parts to rebuild these yourself fairly inexpensively. :thumb-up:

[feildpickedrover]

well, the starter -did- work fine, but i had lost the nuts for the terminal and tried replaceing them, nut went easy, and i got about half way and the terminal spun on me, and now it just clunks and doesnt turn, maybe it just needs the terminal resoldiered inside? and also do i really have to tear the manifolds and exhaust out to pull the starter like my workshop manual says? because i really dont want to get into that, and i know sometimes shortcuts can be found

[gambrinus]

I didn't see a good alternate starter listed, but here is a good resource for you to have:

http://www.lrfaq.org/


RW



Ford 8n tractor starter was what I had in my head, but I'm not 100% certain..

[gudjeon]

Yes, probably spun the connector inside. If using the Lucas nut, it would probably be BSF and FORD would likely be some fine machine screw thread. If the starter works, many would like to know the FORD # I'm sure. :thumb-up:

[feildpickedrover]

I just read that the starter gear on the ford starters is the same as the diesel land rovers, and the mounting flange appears to be the same as the petrol land rovers..hmm..

[Lord Icon]

I just picked up a new design gear reduction starter. This means the old one ( which still works) is redundant. As a fellow rover guy, I offer it to you for the mear payment of postage, or you may fetch it in person. I rebuilt it 2 years ago and if used at least once a month it works fine. Come on down and get it. It also means I have to get off my ass and put the new one in.
Kris Heikkila Mason NH

[gudjeon]

If it were me, I would hold on to the old one. But, this is just me. The Lucas starter has the bendix pulling inward. This is fine as the ring gear is heat-shrunk and fitted against a shoulder so the ring gear stays put. A starter that has a bendix pushing outward like a traditional domestic starter may pull this ring gear loose if it is not secured by other means like a few welds.

I've rebuilt my old Lucas and had to crank the heck of the poor sucker for a few minutes when I flood it at -20c and it still works fine. As a result, I am a bit partial to the oldie.

I may be corrected, and that's OK. :thumb-up:

[yorker]

Yeah you have probably stripped int by turning the stud- that has messed up a lot of people's starters over the years and many never realize how they did it. Pull it and check it out, they aren't hard to remove or fix really.

[LaneRover]

well, the starter -did- work fine, but i had lost the nuts for the terminal and tried replaceing them, nut went easy, and i got about half way and the terminal spun on me, and now it just clunks and doesnt turn, maybe it just needs the terminal resoldiered inside? and also do i really have to tear the manifolds and exhaust out to pull the starter like my workshop manual says? because i really dont want to get into that, and i know sometimes shortcuts can be found

You do not have to remove the exhaust manifold or downpipe. Turn the steering all the way to the right or left (whichever way gets the steering drop arm furthest away from the starter) and then wiggle it this way and that until just as you are about to give up it will be able to turn vertically and come out.

[woodman1]

I have a starter that looks new or rebuilt. For $100.00 plus shipping it's yours