Hitch Upgrade....

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  • jrd51ox
    1st Gear
    • Mar 2009
    • 112

    Hitch Upgrade....

    I'm upgrading to one of Ike's hitch mounts. While I'm waiting for it to be galvanized and shipped I'm enjoying a weekend of bloody knuckles trying to get the old one off.

    I got the two smaller upper bolts out. However the bottom two are killing me. Currently taking a break while the liquid wrench sets in.

    Any tips?

    Also, does anyone know what size wrench the bigger lower bolts take on an SIII?

    Thanks again.
  • gambrinus
    1st Gear
    • Jan 2007
    • 142

    #2
    Liquid Wrench is NOT what you want.

    Go find some of this:




    If PB Blaster doesn't work, buy / borrow a "Blue Wrench" aka torch.



    RW

    Comment

    • ScottT
      Low Range
      • Jul 2008
      • 96

      #3
      I picked one up from Ike a year ago. I used a cutting wheel on a Dremel, one cut vertically, one cut horizontally, claw hammer and a punch.

      Comment

      • lrdukdog
        3rd Gear
        • Nov 2006
        • 321

        #4
        blaster

        I second the P.B. Blaster. Good stuff.
        Jim Wolf

        Comment

        • yorker
          Overdrive
          • Nov 2006
          • 1635

          #5
          PB or Wurth Rost Off. Personally I'd use a torch though and get new bolts.
          1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

          Land Rover UK Forums

          Comment

          • jrd51ox
            1st Gear
            • Mar 2009
            • 112

            #6
            Thanks for the tips. I plan on spraying them with the P.B. Blaster each night this week and try again Saturday morning. But, I think it's going to take a torch.

            Comment

            • I Leak Oil
              Overdrive
              • Nov 2006
              • 1796

              #7
              A torch works, I prefer a grinder. Either one is your friend here. New bolts are cheap, the effort to get them off with a wrench is usually not worth it.
              Jason
              "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

              Comment

              • scott
                Overdrive
                • Oct 2006
                • 1226

                #8
                maybe something you're already doing but if not use a 1/2" drive breaker bar on the nut end not the bolt end
                '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
                '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
                '76 Spitfire 1500
                '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

                Comment

                • ScottT
                  Low Range
                  • Jul 2008
                  • 96

                  #9
                  I tried PB and a breaker bar with pipe extension but couldn't budge the big one on the bottom, all they did was spin after the wrench fell off.
                  I used hardened stainless from http://www.totallystainless.com/ & ARP.

                  Comment

                  • bkreutz
                    4th Gear
                    • Apr 2010
                    • 408

                    #10
                    Originally posted by ScottT
                    I tried PB and a breaker bar with pipe extension but couldn't budge the big one on the bottom, all they did was spin after the wrench fell off.
                    I used hardened stainless from http://www.totallystainless.com/ & ARP.
                    So this is a stainless bolt and nut that you previously installed? If you didn't lube the threads before assembly I'm thinking the metal galled together (bad trait with stainless). If this is the case, the only option is to cut it apart.
                    Gale Breitkreutz
                    '03 Disco
                    '74 Series III 88 (sold, 4/13)
                    '47 CJ2A

                    Comment

                    • ScottT
                      Low Range
                      • Jul 2008
                      • 96

                      #11
                      They weren't stainless, just very rusted. The truck can from Florida, so between dips in salt water there and ten plus years of all the salt Michigan uses on winter roads the nut and bolts "fused"
                      I did use a bunch on anti-seize on the replacement SS.

                      Originally posted by bkreutz
                      So this is a stainless bolt and nut that you previously installed? If you didn't lube the threads before assembly I'm thinking the metal galled together (bad trait with stainless). If this is the case, the only option is to cut it apart.

                      Comment

                      • gudjeon
                        5th Gear
                        • Oct 2006
                        • 613

                        #12
                        I took apart a trailer made in the 50's fabricated from Chev running gear from the late 30's. I used the 50/50 mix of acetone/ATF. Worked like a damn. OOh Whee, its going to make a sweet off road trailer. 6x16's, pintle and ring, and little rolling resistance. Clad in pressure treated wood so if I thrash it, just replace and all is good again. Machining replaceable brass suspension bushings and making greasable shackle bolts. I loves a machining project.

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