PDA

View Full Version : Hitch Upgrade....



jrd51ox
06-27-2010, 12:56 PM
I'm upgrading to one of Ike's hitch mounts. While I'm waiting for it to be galvanized and shipped I'm enjoying a weekend of bloody knuckles trying to get the old one off.

I got the two smaller upper bolts out. However the bottom two are killing me. Currently taking a break while the liquid wrench sets in.

Any tips?

Also, does anyone know what size wrench the bigger lower bolts take on an SIII?

Thanks again.

gambrinus
06-27-2010, 07:44 PM
Liquid Wrench is NOT what you want.

Go find some of this:

http://www.blasterchemical.com/


If PB Blaster doesn't work, buy / borrow a "Blue Wrench" aka torch.



RW

ScottT
06-27-2010, 11:42 PM
I picked one up from Ike a year ago. I used a cutting wheel on a Dremel, one cut vertically, one cut horizontally, claw hammer and a punch.

lrdukdog
06-28-2010, 08:56 AM
I second the P.B. Blaster. Good stuff.
Jim Wolf

yorker
06-28-2010, 09:08 AM
PB or Wurth Rost Off (http://www.amazon.com/Wurth-Rost-Off/dp/B0002XRB0W). Personally I'd use a torch though and get new bolts.

jrd51ox
06-28-2010, 10:43 AM
Thanks for the tips. I plan on spraying them with the P.B. Blaster each night this week and try again Saturday morning. But, I think it's going to take a torch.

I Leak Oil
06-28-2010, 11:11 AM
A torch works, I prefer a grinder. Either one is your friend here. New bolts are cheap, the effort to get them off with a wrench is usually not worth it.

scott
06-28-2010, 11:21 AM
maybe something you're already doing but if not use a 1/2" drive breaker bar on the nut end not the bolt end

ScottT
06-28-2010, 06:30 PM
I tried PB and a breaker bar with pipe extension but couldn't budge the big one on the bottom, all they did was spin after the wrench fell off.
I used hardened stainless from http://www.totallystainless.com/ (http://www.totallystainless.com/)& ARP.

bkreutz
06-29-2010, 12:57 AM
I tried PB and a breaker bar with pipe extension but couldn't budge the big one on the bottom, all they did was spin after the wrench fell off.
I used hardened stainless from http://www.totallystainless.com/ (http://www.totallystainless.com/)& ARP.

So this is a stainless bolt and nut that you previously installed? If you didn't lube the threads before assembly I'm thinking the metal galled together (bad trait with stainless). If this is the case, the only option is to cut it apart.

ScottT
07-01-2010, 11:44 AM
They weren't stainless, just very rusted. The truck can from Florida, so between dips in salt water there and ten plus years of all the salt Michigan uses on winter roads the nut and bolts "fused"
I did use a bunch on anti-seize on the replacement SS.


So this is a stainless bolt and nut that you previously installed? If you didn't lube the threads before assembly I'm thinking the metal galled together (bad trait with stainless). If this is the case, the only option is to cut it apart.

gudjeon
07-01-2010, 12:31 PM
I took apart a trailer made in the 50's fabricated from Chev running gear from the late 30's. I used the 50/50 mix of acetone/ATF. Worked like a damn.:thumb-up: OOh Whee, its going to make a sweet off road trailer. 6x16's, pintle and ring, and little rolling resistance. Clad in pressure treated wood so if I thrash it, just replace and all is good again. Machining replaceable brass suspension bushings and making greasable shackle bolts. I loves a machining project.