POR-15 Hardnose?

[superpowerdave]

About two years ago now I tore my SIII down to frame as the frame horn cracked just behind the spring hanger and we wanted something that wasn't going to fail anytime soon.

I had a frame custom built by a local welder, along with some suspension modifications that would make purists cringe, so we'll move on :) Anyway, while I had it rolling chassis I used POR-15 chassis coating and was really impressed with the way it worked and will do my axles when they get removed for final fitting and adjusting.

The truck is being built for moderate to difficult trails that we routinely run and not a show truck - not looking for a perfect paint job, just something that will withstand the abuse she'll be put through.

Anyway, now that I'm nearing the point where paint is a serious consideration, I've put a lot of thought of using their Hardnose Paint. Has anyone used this product before?

Right now all of the panels save the top have been stripped to aluminum . Looking for any suggestions on the subject.

[Lord Icon]

I have to say, por 15 is the most aggressive paint I have ever used. It has two cons...
#1 it is not uv safe and will break down so it must be covered by another paint. Per the instructions.
#2 If it gets on something , it is there for eternity. I F???<N mean FOREVER!!!!!!!
It will get on your skin. You attempt to wash it off, ...nope.
I went to home depot and walked down the paint isle with the employee , we tried every chemical they had, it all bounced off.
The stuff is like adamantium. When it touches something it is there for life....
The hand of God cannot take this stuff off. It does not care about gas either. My tank is lined with the stuff. In 10,000 years someone will dig it up and the paint will be there still like the day I put it on...
To apply , you should use a 10 foot brush, being held by someone else , you should be standing in another state... wearing gloves...
Best protective paint ever made...

[TriedStone]

The hand of God cannot take this stuff off.

Well I'm not sure about that, but it is hard to get off. I am wearing Chassiscote from spraying my radiator yesterday. I think all their products are excellent. Hardnose is UV resistant. The only issue I've had with it is the whitecote will stain if mud or grease is left on it for an extended period of time. I have not noticed that being the case with the other suspension parts I coated in black. May just be the lighter colors are more noticeable. I've had good luck spraying it, just be careful not to put to much on or it will run easily since it is self leveling. But you probably know that since you've painted your frame.

Post some pic's if you do it.

Cheers

[superpowerdave]

Yep, POR-15 is there for a good while ... I was extremely careful when I painted the frame in it, and went very slow. POR-15 itself isn't UV resistant which is why I felt comfortable doing the frame and bits of the undercarriage in it.

Self-level it does very well. I brushed the frame since I could take my time with it, and was surprised at the gloss that resulted. Recommend from here.

My current plans, until I learn otherwise, is to do the body panels in POR-15 as the primer and then overcoat in Hardnose. I am going with the dark gray for the body, and the whitecoat for the top alone. I figure the gray will hide a lot and the top will never be dirty enough for long so stains shouldn't be a worry.

Basically I wanted something as tough as nails, or, as Lord Icon put it, adamantium-like qualities :) My DII and RRC show severe signs of sagebrush scratches and marks from the loveable rocks ... I want something that will resist that and more.

This rig will be put the paces and will see a good bit of rash and I want the paint to stand up to the challenge with the rest of the truck.

[Tsmith]

It is very hard tough stuff. I've used it on a chassis (not a LR) about ten years ago. It is impervious to moisture and keeps it out. Unfortunately, it also keeps it in. Any opening or scratch can admit moisture and corrosion will spread underneath. After about four years I found areas (about six square inches) with the coating intact and moist rust working away under the finish. Like anything else, it needs to be inspected and maintained.

It is also VERY toxic. The type of respirator should be determined by how many brain cells you're willing to sacrifice.

Tom Smith

[amcordo]

I'm going to ask you to describe things for me from now on. Very colorful.





I have to say, por 15 is the most aggressive paint I have ever used. It has two cons...
#1 it is not uv safe and will break down so it must be covered by another paint. Per the instructions.
#2 If it gets on something , it is there for eternity. I F???<N mean FOREVER!!!!!!!
It will get on your skin. You attempt to wash it off, ...nope.
I went to home depot and walked down the paint isle with the employee , we tried every chemical they had, it all bounced off.
The stuff is like adamantium. When it touches something it is there for life....
The hand of God cannot take this stuff off. It does not care about gas either. My tank is lined with the stuff. In 10,000 years someone will dig it up and the paint will be there still like the day I put it on...
To apply , you should use a 10 foot brush, being held by someone else , you should be standing in another state... wearing gloves...
Best protective paint ever made...

[thixon]

I read the MSDS on POR 15 hard nose. It appears to be POR15's stab at supplying a product for use as a topcoat on the POR 15 rust product. Its probably not any better than other brands of automotive paints, but maybe not any worse either.

It contains iso's, so beware and wear a forced air respirator when you spray (no, an organic vapor cartridge type is not adequate). Also, cover your skin and eyes (duh). If you aren't planning on spraying it then it won't matter anyway. Most pro's would push you toward their brand of choice which won't be POR15 hardnose.

If it were me, I'd look at other auto grade paints. They don't limit you on the colors the way this product appears to do.

The other interesting thing about the product is in their literature. It doesn't necessarily mention it being used as an automotive body paint. It does seem to recommend its use as a chassis paint. Curious......

[Momo]

I haven't tried the Hardnose but it may be overkill when you consider the price. POR is strong but if you drag your chassis over a rock it will still compromise it.

You should call POR and check for compatibility with aluminum alloy. It may end up peeling off in great big ribbons.

On my current project rig, I used the gray POR for the chassis coat in order to easily spot and small areas I may have missed, then did the top coat in Rustoleum gloss black. Both were brushed on, and self-leveled very well. The gloss finish cleans up more easily because it doesn't have the "tooth" of a semigloss or flat finish. If it gets scratched deeply I'll see the gray POR and will know where to touch up to prevent rust.

The worst thing about POR is that it does not store. I transferred half a can of it to a smaller container to eliminate the dead space, but that is nothing but a paperweight now.

[superpowerdave]

When I spoke with the guys at POR-15 they told me a self-etching primer would be fine underneath the Hardnose. And cost ... I could do the entire truck for less than $300 which I couldn't come close to touching with a traditional paint.

Thixon - in response to it being used as an automotive paint you're right, they don't market it that way probably because most people are looking for something awesome; I am not. They do market it as a tough as nails top coat that will withstand better than traditional paint. When I spoke with them the guy had no problem telling me he'd heard of tractors, farm equipment, etc being coated in it but never a truck. And for me, if it looks well enough, and is tough enough for farmers and their gear ... I think it'll work for me.

I am going to pick up a small amount and see what it does :)

[thixon]

Superpowerdave,

The only thing that really bothers me on the hardnose is the dry time. If it has a hardener then why the long dry time? I found a post on ford truck board by a guy who says it took three days to dry properly. Weird.

Go check out your local automotive paint store before you shuck out the $300 on the hardnose. A gallon of Nason or some other single stage along with the reducer and hardener won't cost you much more than that.

If you want really cheap, go the rustoleum route. Ace will color match it for you, and it actually comes out pretty good.

And finally, the self leveling thing has been bugging me. All automotive paints are self leveling to some degree. Clear coats flow out after spraying, as due most single stages. Gun set up and technique is the key (obviously).

Good luck with the paint job, post pics when you finish.