no power on hills

[BGGB]

hello, i have a 65 88 that has been bogs right down on hills. on a hill that i use to manage 45 in 4th i now go 25 in 3rd...... i tried adjusting the distributor but can't turn it anymore? ( running pertronix) is this normal, it runs well at idel and only has slight loss of power on the flats its only on the hills were i have problems. running a rochester.
Thanks Glenn

[JimCT]

What are you using for timing marks? You say you can not turn the dizzy anymore, does that mean you can not set it at the correct timing? Jim

[BGGB]

i don't use timing marks since theyre hard to get to ( on flywheel not on the crank up front) i usually just do it by ear and it works fine. since i lost power i've moved the distributor couterclockwise looking at it from passenger side fender as far as it would go. if i turn it cloockwise it slugs down to much. like i said it runs fine at idel and even if i rev it in neutral it runs fine, its just when its under load on a hill that it dies. i'm thinking its either fuel or the advance perhaps....thougths
thank you Glenn

[gambrinus]

Take the time to set your timing correctly and go from there... no pun intended, but it works.
:sly:

[jac04]

...set your timing correctly ..
There is absolutely nothing wrong with setting your timing by ear. Arguably, it is the best way to set your timing.

[BGGB]

i have it set and running good at idel.....as i understand it if its good at idel it shouild be good throughout the rpms...as long as teh advance works correctly. i really wish my dad didn't let me borrow his truck, that way i'd be forced to get it running correctly :)

[scott]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with setting your timing by ear. Arguably, it is the best way to set your timing.

i use the beer timing method. it is by far the best method.

[NickDawson]

I'm getting better at setting my timing by ear - suspect experience makes a difference. With my 2.5L petrol I can get it running smoothly at idle and have it produce bad backfires throughout the RPMs. The timing gun is still my friend.

edited to remove "check you points"... duh! re-read, pertronix.

[Alaskan RoverIIA]

What are you using for timing marks? You say you can not turn the dizzy anymore, does that mean you can not set it at the correct timing? Jim

I'm sorta at the same point on my rover. Series IIA 2.25 liter gasoline. For inductive timing gun, I use around 750 rpm...and if I remember right it should be around 6* BTDC or so for 87 octane fuel. Nowadays, to get the timing set to those parameters, I am VERY close to the maximum that I can turn the distributer. I don't remember this being the case previously.

I wonder why that would change, assuming my timing chain and camshaft are functioning correctly?

I have noticed that to get the timing closer to that 6*BTDC mark, I've had to progressively turn the distributer more and more clockwise over the years until the present, when the distributer is at it's maximum clockwise adjsustment. Weird.

[I Leak Oil]

i use the beer timing method. it is by far the best method.

Well that depends on if you set it after you drink the beer(s) or before!:D

[jac04]

i have it set and running good at idel.....as i understand it if its good at idel it shouild be good throughout the rpms...as long as teh advance works correctly.
Remember that setting the timing by ear also includes running the vehicle under loaded conditions to see if you get any knocking (pre-ignition). I have always found that the ignition needs to be slightly retarded from where is idles smoothest in order to avoid knocking under heavy load (like pulling a hill in 4th).

[mongoswede]

also...remember that if you can hear the knocking or pinging then the real damage has already begun. Modern EFI and igntion systems are very good at adjusting the timing to optimize power, performance, and efficiency and avoiding knock. Even the older systems use knock sensors that feel for a given vibration in the block and react. So if you can hear the actual pinging or knocking then it is way beyond the danger range.

Having said that, the stock rover engines are running 7:1 or 8:1 compression. Its hard to believe that one of these engines could develop a bad enough knock or pinging condition to cause significant engine damage...at least over a short period of time.

[gambrinus]

There are many things that can go wrong or be out of adjustment. Start someplace with one thing that you are 100% is correct and then trouble shoot from there. That's my only bias for taking the time to get your timing 100% dead nuts correct.


RW

[LaneRover]

Any chance that your mechanical advance in the distributor is stuck or binding at all?

Mine was stuck and I could drive all day long at 60 on the flats but knocked when going up hill.

[rover_chump]

Another power robbing scenario (to consider)

Do a compression and leak-down test.

I had a burnt exh valve in my 109 and lost lots of power
(especially going up hills)

I replaced my cyl head with an 8:1 comp. & hardened valves & seats
for burning unleaded. And, was pleasantly surprised at my big
increase in power.

Just my $.02 :cool:

Peace,
Art

[cscutt]

I had the same problem, but I used Scott's beer, dizzy, timing method and substituted a large cup of tea so I could see the vibrations better and it made a World of difference!! In addition, adding Sea Foam to the tank and engine really aided the process..yes it will look like a flea duster for a while but it works:thumb-up: