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		<title>Rovers North Forums - Forums</title>
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			<title>Rovers North Forums - Forums</title>
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			<title>Help getting my new Rover to start</title>
			<link>https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii/193760-help-getting-my-new-rover-to-start</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Jul 2026 21:38:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>First post on the forum and first-time owner of a 1980 Series 3 diesel. She started up and ran fine for the first several drives. Then would not...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[First post on the forum and first-time owner of a 1980 Series 3 diesel. She started up and ran fine for the first several drives. Then would not start. Turns over fine and no smoke out pipe so seems to be a fuel delivery issue. Have bled system all the way to injectors (lift pump &#8212;&gt;filter&#8212;&gt;cav pump&#8212;&gt;injectors) and no air bubbles seen. Only got drops of fuel out of injector lines (not the &#8220;spurts&#8221; or &#8220;sprays&#8221; others mention). Could it be faulty cav pump, something gummed up and stuck in there? Anything else I could try before I pull the pump and break into it?<br />
All help appreciated as I get going in LR world!]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA &amp; III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>ruggers88</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii/193760-help-getting-my-new-rover-to-start</guid>
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			<title>Clutch and/or Transfer Case Mystery...</title>
			<link>https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii/193756-clutch-and-or-transfer-case-mystery</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2026 22:11:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I posted earlier that I bought a 1967 Series 2a.  So here's the story...When I took it for a test drive, the vehicle drove and braked fine, but the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I posted earlier that I bought a 1967 Series 2a.  So here's the story...When I took it for a test drive, the vehicle drove and braked fine, but the clutch was slipping excessively.  I bought it knowing that it required a new clutch - amongst many other things.  I trailered it home and parked it on my fairly steep driveway with the nose facing uphill.  I blocked the front and rear wheels and started to disassemble...<ul><li>Removed Seats</li>
<li>Removed Floor Boards and casings</li>
<li>Removed Seat Box</li>
<li>Disconnected clutch slave and stowed</li>
<li>Removed hand brake and all linkage</li>
<li>Removed clutch linkage</li>
<li>Disconnected rear drive shaft at rear axle and stowed shaft</li>
<li>Disconnected front drive shaft at transfer case and stowed</li>
<li>Installed engine hoist and fastened lift chains</li>
<li>Removed transmission bell housing nuts</li>
<li>Removed transmission mounts and hardware.</li>
</ul>I then lifted the transmission slightly and pulled it back.  This was very easy because the vehicle was parked on a hill.  My vehicle has the RoamerDrive, so I moved the transmission back and blocked it on main cross member with a piece of plywood against the RoamerDrive.  This left about 6&quot; of room to remove the clutch.  I proceeded to remove the clutch, cleaned the flywheel, replaced the pilot bushing, and re-installed the clutch.  At this point, I did a number of other repairs while the transmission was stowed...<ul><li>Cleaned all grease oil</li>
<li>Re-wired front marker lights</li>
<li>Re-wired front signal lights</li>
<li>Re-wired Right Rear Signal Lights</li>
<li>Rebuilt fuse box</li>
<li>Removed all erroneous wiring</li>
<li>Acquired bucket seats and rebuilt them</li>
<li>Installed new Alpine Glass</li>
<li>Installed new Rear Door Glass</li>
<li>Removed front wheels and inspected calipers (has a disc brake conversion) - noted the wheel nuts were very loose</li>
</ul>I then struggled to put the transmission back into place (uphill), but it was generally quite simple.  I re-installed clutch slave, adjusted clutch per the manual, installed new transmission mounts, re-installed drive shafts and had brake linkages.  Then I started it up and the clutch allowed me to disengage the engine, I put it into 1st and reverse but just let out clutch slightly to feel the engine work hard... this let me know the clutch was working.  I then put the interior back together, re-wired the dash, replaced the oil pressure line, re-wired the turn signal switch, re-wired the ignition/headlight switch, Installed vacuum to the brake booster and installed the bucket seats.<br />
I went to move it yesterday in prep for our holiday.  But &quot;Grover&quot; wasn't having any of it.  The vehicle would not move.  It felt as if the hand brake was on, or it was placed against a brick wall.  The engine and transmission struggled, but it was not moving anywhere.<br />
Then I had the same issue as a previous post.  The red lever was forward, so I moved it full backward then full forward.  No difference.  Then I moved it partial backward, but this made 1st and reverse grind a bit.  so then I pulled the red lever all the way back.  This allowed me to move the vehicle l straining.  I back it up into a flat gravel parking space beside the house.  It has a 4&quot; landscaping tie to climb, which should be easy in 7.50x16's.  I had to give it all she had.  Once in the gravel, the rear wheels just dig into the gravel.  So it appears Grover's front axle is just &quot;stuck&quot;.<br />
<br />
Here's my trouble shooting...<ul><li>Thinking the brake booster was engaging the brakes, I disconnected.  This made no difference.</li>
<li>Thinking the front calipers were impacting the wheels, I lifted both front wheels (separately) to find they rotate fine</li>
<li>Thinking the rear brakes were engaged, I lifted both rear wheels (separately) to find they rotate fine</li>
</ul>So I am very perplexed.  It drove in fine... All I did was a clutch (and some unrelated stuff).  There is no grinding, the vehicle  acts and sounds as if it wants to move, the clutch appears to work properly, you can feel the truck try to move forward or backward - it just feels like there is a brake on.  It seems to work better in 4 Wheel Low... What the heck could be wrong?  I'm hoping that someone out there could shed some light on this for me - I have no idea what else to check.  As a next step, I was going to lift both rear wheels to see if they rotate fine forward or backward.  Then I was going to to the same with the front, then I was going to remove the front drive shaft, then rear drive shaft.  After that.. I'm out of ideas.  What could have happened during a clutch replacement to have caused this??  <br />
 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA &amp; III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>GMorbey</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii/193756-clutch-and-or-transfer-case-mystery</guid>
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			<title>Clutch? Transmission? Help!</title>
			<link>https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii/193743-clutch-transmission-help</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 29 Jun 2026 13:58:24 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[1973 Series III '88 Petrol here. Coming up a hill yesterday, shifted down from 4th to 3rd gear, heard a not-too-loud &quot;clunk&quot; somewhere below and the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[1973 Series III '88 Petrol here. Coming up a hill yesterday, shifted down from 4th to 3rd gear, heard a not-too-loud &quot;clunk&quot; somewhere below and the Rover came out of gear.  Was able to coast to the side of the road. I could not get any gear to engage. I turned off the Rover.  Needless to say, putting in first gear and letting off the clutch the Rover would normally stay put, but it just started rolling backwards down the hill. The only thing to keep it from rolling was the brakes (emergency break isn't great), then a couple of blocks behind the rear wheels until tow service arrived. I started it back up with foot on the clutch, kept it in first gear and when I slowly let off the clutch I could hear a grinding sound about mid-ships. Any immediate thoughts on where I should begin? Hoping it's something uncomplicated... Thanks for any advice. ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA &amp; III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>dwmcompton</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii/193743-clutch-transmission-help</guid>
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			<title>Sound Deadening. Worth it?</title>
			<link>https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii/193738-sound-deadening-worth-it</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 28 Jun 2026 21:01:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I bought some butyle sound deadening stuff recently(KillMat). I put it behind the door cards/trim on my Series 3 109. It seemed to turn a flimsy...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I bought some butyle sound deadening stuff recently(KillMat). I put it behind the door cards/trim on my Series 3 109. It seemed to turn a flimsy metallic &#8220;Cling!&#8221; sound when I close the door to a more modern &#8220;Chung!&#8221; sound. It made about a 5% increase in my feeling of &#8220;oh, this is a car, not a tractor.&#8221;<br />
<br />
Well, I got a whole box left over if that stuff and I&#8217;m looking to put it where I can to reduce engine &amp; drive noise. I already have big rubber floor mats, a load space rubber mat from our hosts, and older carpet kit that covers the transmission humo. But it still sounds like a bucket of bolts driving down the road, and motor and transmission whine from being in low gears too long.<br />
<br />
I was thinking of putting more of that sound deadening stuff all over, but I don&#8217;t want to look at it. It sticks to panels and is a grid work of tin-foil with the KillMat logo repeated all over. Best for behind carpet and trim. But my Series is wonderfully bare.So I won&#8217;t be putting it on the roof or anywhere visible. My idea was to do the floorboards and seat box from underneath, and maybe the firewall or footwells from under. But I also don&#8217;t want to see it in the wheel wells or engine bay. Basically, I have an uncomfortable job ahead of me, and I&#8217;m asking myself if it&#8217;s worth it? What do you guys think? Have you had success with it? Was it worth it?<br />
<br />
Mind you, I don&#8217;t have a radio in there and probably won&#8217;t be installing one. I just want the truck to feel a bit more insulated from noise and sounding more like a car and less like an echo-y tin tractor. But then again, that&#8217;s the appeal of the old Series, right? Share with me your thoughts on insulation and sound deadening.<br />
<br />
I saw some Defenders in photos online that have padding inside like moving blankets or military helicopters have, which looks awesome, but I have no idea where to get some for a Series 3 LWB. Interior options I can find are basically carpet kits only for the floor. Anybody know where I can find headliner, or those military blankets I was talking about?]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA &amp; III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>vlad_d</dc:creator>
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			<title>avg work day</title>
			<link>https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii/193716-avg-work-day</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 23 Jun 2026 01:42:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I think the majority of Land Rover owners forget what their machine was built  for&gt;]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I think the majority of Land Rover owners forget what their machine was built  for&gt;<br />
    <br />
 ]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA &amp; III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>jimrr</dc:creator>
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			<title>Blinkers, break lights stopped working</title>
			<link>https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii/193693-blinkers-break-lights-stopped-working</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 11 Jun 2026 15:14:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>1973 Series III here.  Hoping for some troubleshooting suggestions. for no apparent reason my blinkers and break lights both stopped working...</description>
			<content:encoded>1973 Series III here.  Hoping for some troubleshooting suggestions. for no apparent reason my blinkers and break lights both stopped working mid-drive yesterday.  When I move the blinker switch, the interior green arrows do not light up and the blinkers outside do not work.  And no break lights now either. When I put the Hazards on, the interior green blinker lights both work and the blinker lights in the back both flash like they should.  Where do I begin??  Thanks for your help!  </content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA &amp; III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>dwmcompton</dc:creator>
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			<title>Transfer Box Transmission Rebuild, Parts Availability</title>
			<link>https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii/193689-transfer-box-transmission-rebuild-parts-availability</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2026 02:28:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello all, 
 
My 1965 Series 2 has developed a horrific clattering sound in 2nd and 3rd gears around the shifter/transmission tunnel area. Drained...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello all,<br />
<br />
My 1965 Series 2 has developed a horrific clattering sound in 2nd and 3rd gears around the shifter/transmission tunnel area. Drained the transfer box and theres some yellow sparkles in the oil. So thinking theres a rebuild to do now. I don't have the space or a barn to rip it out and try to tackle it myself so a British shop it must be.<br />
<br />
After calling around to a few places (the Sonoma/Marin California region), everyone seems to have no issue scheduling a drop off in the coming months; however, one shop immediately said that he can't get all the parts and the ones he can are going to be months out on order.<br />
<br />
Has anyone here recently had or heard of this issue? I can't believe with such a following that no one can rebuild a Land Rover 2 gearbox anymore and source the parts to do so. But I also don't want to feel blindsided if someone puts it into pieces and I get dreadful news it can't be saved.]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://forums.roversnorth.com/forum/land-rover-technical-forums/land-rover-series-i-ii-iia-iii"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA &amp; III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>WineCountryRover</dc:creator>
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