Brake question

[o2batsea]

I can only adjust the rear brakes properly with the wheels off the ground...so I can tell how tight the adjustment is. I adjust the snail cams so that there is SIGNIFICANT drag on the wheel when you attempt to turn it by hand. Not so much that it is locked, but it must be hard to turn.

I also find that the snail cam tends to get a flat spot which then makes the post on the shoe kinda slip back into this spot no matter what you do. Replacing the snail cams is the remedy. Our hosts have a kit. Be sure you put them on right way around.
The rears on a 109 should lock up under a good stab with the welly.

[SafeAirOne]

What about the orientation of the cams in the picture? Both cams have the flat side facing the top.

Diagram from the parts catalogue:

[DGG]

What about the orientation of the cams in the picture? Both cams have the flat side facing the top. Does it matter? The business where I got the brake kit is willing to replace the shoes if they are defective. I just don't know where to go from here. I'm doing a frame off restoration of this vehicle, and the only thing that is holding me back from driving it on the road is no brakes. Frustrating.

[SafeAirOne]

One of the posts fell out also.

This is, of course, a huge red flag.

[DGG]

I have the shoes on correctly as per TeriAnn's page. I think my problem is with the snail cams and the shoes. Is there an orientation for the snail cams? Does it matter which way they go on. It seems like when I adjust the snail cams, it doesn't push the shoes out far enough. Maybe it's the posts on the shoes not being in the right spot. I think the brake shoes are Delphi. One of the posts fell out also.

[SafeAirOne]

Are the brakes properly adjusted with the snail cams?

It is my understanding that most of the replacement brake shoes available today are junk. See this thread on G&R: http://gunsandrovers.com/showthread.php?t=9556

Also there's the matter of having the rear shoes on incorrectly. See TeriAnn's page about this: http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/...rearbrakes.htm



All these things (and a few unmentioned things) make the 109 brakes not work without many pumps.

[DGG]

I'm doing a full refurbishment of a 1961 109 Station Wagon. I have completely rebuilt the brake system with all new parts. I have bled the brakes with a power bleeder 4 or 5 times. I am getting no air bubbles, and I have no leaks. It takes 4-5 pedal pushes to get the brakes to work. Once I release the pressure, the pedal goes to the floor again. 4-5 maybe 6 pumps, and then I get brakes. What am I missing? Thanks.