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  • stomper
    replied
    There is a guy in Ashby Mass. Who is selling a used Green Bible right now on Land Rover exchange. Some other parts included. If you contact him, he may be willing to separate out the books. I won't post the other stuff he is selling out of respect for our hosts, Here is his info though.

    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _
    ...... Factory repair manual used,........ Will sell as a lot $80.00 or individually

    Kevin-Scott Crawford.
    Ashby, Massachusetts, United States of America - 29 May 2010

    e-mail: gumabby@yahoo.ie

    Leave a comment:


  • TedW
    replied
    FWIW I've done most of my repairs with the Haynes manual. It's like the Cliff's Notes of the GB, IMO. Not a replacement for the bible, but very handy to start with.

    Leave a comment:


  • albersj51
    replied
    Thanks Nick; the overwhelming response seems to be the CD isn't worth it. I'll just pick up a used one somewhere if possible.

    Leave a comment:


  • NickDawson
    replied
    As many others have said, the CD has some challenges.
    For me, it was totally unusable - wanted an older version of Acrobat or something - tried on many different computers, and I'm no slouch in the nerd department. Couldn't get it to work. Its a coaster for beer now.

    Leave a comment:


  • albersj51
    replied
    You guys are awesome! I'll be rewiring the rover and putting in an alternator this weekend; I'll be sure to take care of the rear Axel then as well. Thanks for all of the help!

    Leave a comment:


  • bkreutz
    replied
    Using sealants can be somewhat tricky. The key is getting one that's compatible to oil and grease. Some of the RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) sealers can be dissolved by oil. "Right Stuff" works well, Toyota has some stuff they call FIPG (form in place gasket) that works super, I found out about it when I worked at a Lexus dealer (I've since retired from the trade, 43 years was enough) it's a bit pricier then most of the other brands, but it's the best I've ever used.

    Leave a comment:


  • crankin
    replied
    Originally posted by scott
    some lugs are beveled on both ends. mine are, save countless nanoseconds when bolting the wheels back on as i don't have to look to orientate the lugs
    Those tricky Brits...

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  • scott
    replied
    Originally posted by crankin
    Also, the wheel nuts look to be turned around... the bevel piece fits very nice against the wheel.
    some lugs are beveled on both ends. mine are, save countless nanoseconds when bolting the wheels back on as i don't have to look to orientate the lugs

    Leave a comment:


  • crankin
    replied
    Also, the wheel nuts look to be turned around... the bevel piece fits very nice against the wheel.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tim Smith
    replied
    It's hard to tell but I think I can see a loose bolt on your flange. Looking at where the oil is coming out from, it definitely looks like majority of oil is coming out the flange seal.

    You might get lucky and find out the flange is just loose. Give that a try while you are waiting for the parts to arrive.

    Leave a comment:


  • stomper
    replied
    Having fought with my rear hub seal a couple of times, I actually would opt for the paper gasket. I tried sealing mine twice with silicone based sealants, and it still leaked. I must not have had something right.

    The oil is the differential oil, EP90 or some other variant of the same, that you are losing. Just jack up the axel really high before you undo the hub, and you will get minimal leakage when you crack the hub seal apart. Top up the diferential when you are done.

    Or, you could drain the diff prior to starting the project, if you plan on replenishing the rear with all fresh oil.

    Leave a comment:


  • albersj51
    replied
    Thanks TriedStone!

    Any info on the oil? I know its a dumb question, but this is my first Rover and my first 4X4. So, is the oil its leaking coming from the rear differential and I just need to make sure its full of the righ oil? Or, is there a place to put oil in the hubs and if so, what oil does it take?

    Thanks!

    J

    Leave a comment:


  • TriedStone
    replied
    Originally posted by albersj51
    I read a post where someone recommended using Right Stuff sealer/gasket maker instead of a flange seal and felt washer...any one think that's good/bad/indifferent?

    J
    Excellent stuff, I've use it since 1995 and never had a leak. As with all sealants make sure both surfaces are clean and free of oily residue.

    Leave a comment:


  • albersj51
    replied
    Thanks everyone! Definitely glad i asked! Sounds like the CD won't work for me.

    I read a post where someone recommended using Right Stuff sealer/gasket maker instead of a flange seal and felt washer...any one think that's good/bad/indifferent?

    Also the oil dripping out is that gear oil from the rear differential or is there oil in the hubs? Thank!

    J

    Leave a comment:


  • mongoswede
    replied
    Originally posted by mongoswede
    well its 1) "print screen"
    2) paste and edit into Paint.

    Of course I am in no way endorsing the piracy of copyright protected materials....yada yada eplurbum unimum battlestar galactica.

    Leave a comment:

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