SIII Ignition Switch--High Failure Rate...

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  • SafeAirOne
    replied
    Originally posted by TeriAnn
    Do you have anything that draws more current than a stock electrical system? If yes you may be overloading the switch current rating... ...Just a thought,

    I can't think of any extra loads on that switch...My glow plugs are on a relayed circuit as are the 4 Hella 500s. Being a diesel, I've got a higher-powered starter, but that shouldn't matter as it's only the solenoid circuit that goes through the ignition switch, not the power to the starter motor itself. So I think I'm gonna say "no," nothing extra through the switch.

    I wish I could remember where I got the replacement ignition switch 4 or 5 years ago. That might tell me something, as I was occasionally ordering from a supplier of questionable [quality]replacement parts back then...

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  • TeriAnn
    replied
    Originally posted by SafeAirOne
    Oh, believe me...I'm super-familiar with the electrical system in my 109. Just wondering if anyone else has gone through ignition switches as fast as I seem to be.
    I don't know about the Series III switch but a Series II combination ignition/lead lamp switch is designed to only handle about 13-14 amps though the ignition part of the circuit. Could a SIII have a low rating too? Do you have anything that draws more current than a stock electrical system? If yes you may be overloading the switch current rating.

    I solved my problem by adding a relay. No the only thing the ignition switch powers is the main power relay which in turn runs all the switched electrics.

    Just a thought,

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • Terrys
    replied
    Originally posted by bkreutz
    I don't think there is a buyer or a seller, a friend of mine sent me the link, but looking at the dates and the address I think the ad itself is a "joke" as well. It did make me smile though.
    The Q&As are as funny as the auction. I had a bottle of Lucas Smoke for years, but gave it to someone as a gag when they burned up their car.

    Leave a comment:


  • SafeAirOne
    replied
    Originally posted by bkreutz
    But you need this "kit" to make it work.
    http://originalmodelaparts.com/Misc/LucasSmokeKit.htm

    I don't think I'm out yet...There always seems to be plenty of that left in my electrical system.

    Leave a comment:


  • bkreutz
    replied
    I don't think there is a buyer or a seller, a friend of mine sent me the link, but looking at the dates and the address I think the ad itself is a "joke" as well. It did make me smile though.

    Leave a comment:


  • mongoswede
    replied
    Originally posted by bkreutz
    But you need this "kit" to make it work.


    (couldn't resist, I tried)
    I suspect the humor of the auction will wear off when there is a winning bidder who won't be expecting to pay $2000+ for a bottle of smoke. At which point the seller will owe ebay a hefty sellers fee.

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  • bkreutz
    replied
    But you need this "kit" to make it work.


    (couldn't resist, I tried)

    Leave a comment:


  • SafeAirOne
    replied
    Built this virtually failure-proof remote to bypass the factory ignition switch today. This should put an end to my ignition switch reliablility issues:

    Leave a comment:


  • SafeAirOne
    replied
    Originally posted by mongoswede
    Sorry, my posting sounds a little condescending... I was not trying to say it that way.

    No sweat--I thought it was kind of funny, actually--there I was reading the post, wishing I had fewer opportunities to become so familiar with my electrical system.

    In the end, it looks as if I'll be bypassing the factory ignition switch and using a remote box containing 2 switches: One run/stop switch and one momentary on / center off / momentary on switch for the glow plugs and starter circuits.

    The nice thing about that setup is that I can do it without any permanent modifications to anything at all, the factory setup can be reconnected in seconds and the weak point in the system (the ignition switch) is completely bypassed.

    As for the keychain, I have 5 other keys on it. Shouldn't be an issue, since there is an entire steering column lock mechanism between the key lock and the ignition switch on a SIII (unlike pre SIII switches that mount directly to the back of the lock.

    I don't remember whether the ignition switch was disassemble-able or not. I seem to recall it looking pretty disposable. Even still, I don't think I'd go for the clean/reinstall because it's just such a bear to get this switch out and in. Probably easy for elves and gnomes to get their hands in there, but it's a real difficulty for those with human-sized appendages, so I'd just [someday] re-replace with another new unit and be done with it (for another 5 years, at least).

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  • mongoswede
    replied


    $10.96

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  • stomper
    replied
    I've always wanted one of those "missle arm" toggles in a vehicle. Even if it wasn't hooked up, just as a conversation piece! I would go with the "don't touch that" dialouge, just to see how long someone would go before they pressed it.

    Leave a comment:


  • mongoswede
    replied
    Originally posted by SafeAirOne
    Oh, believe me...I'm super-familiar with the electrical system in my 109. Just wondering if anyone else has gone through ignition switches as fast as I seem to be.

    I considered the use of a run/stop switch plus cold start and starter buttons, but it becomes a little too messy. I'm no purist, but I try to keep the amount of non-standard stuff to a minimum.

    Sorry, my posting sounds a little condescending... I was not trying to say it that way.


    My thought is to mount a kill switch somewhere that is relatively hidden so it doubles as an immobilizer. Then have a button on the dash..or one of those aircraft missile "arm" toggles.

    Leave a comment:


  • albersj51
    replied
    I saw this in one of my other cars. I pulled the switch and cleaned it and that fixed it. Also heard too much weight can cause premature failure.

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  • scott
    replied
    what do you have on your key chain? i've always thought too heavy a key chain will put undue stress on the swtches internals maybe leading to failure.

    Leave a comment:


  • graniterover
    replied
    My late IIa switch was bad and I robbed the one of my SIII, which I still need to replace. They were identical.

    Originally posted by SafeAirOne
    For the second time in 5 years, I've almost been left stranded by the ignition switch on my SIII.

    The first time, I was miles out in the desert when I turned off my engine to do a little map reading. It wouldn't start back up because the "energized in run position" wire wouldn't energize. I replaced the ignition swith.

    The same thing happened to me tonight, except I was in a town 20 miles from my house. Fortunately, it was pretty easy to bypass the switch both times, but it is still a PITA and shouldn't be necessary.

    Any other SIII owners have similar problems with their ignition switches??

    Leave a comment:

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