'71 2A Clutch Issue

Hello all, new guy here.

I've got a '71 2A with a clutch issue. Can't disengage the clutch and start in gear (clutch pedal basically fell to the floor), so bled the line, air/fluid pushed thru while depressing clutch pedal. There was a lot of pressure on the pedal while I was pushing out air/fluid, and instead of getting a steady stream of fluid I ended up with air in the end. Clutch pedal is tighter than it was but can not disengage the clutch.

What should I do? The Master reservoir has fluid in it (although it looks clear and not yellow, like the fluid that came out?).

Thanks in advance.

Under normal circumstances, you can bleed the clutch by gravity, i.e. fill the master, open the bleed screw, and let the fluid drain till you get a solid drip. It sounds like you've got air still in the line, nearer the master. So, you'll need to bleed it the old fashioned, 2 man way. Have someone pump up the pedal, and hold it on the floor, crack the bleeder screw, close it and repeat, always making sure the master is filled. you'll probably need to do this 3-5 times to fully expell the air. When you get pressure at the pedal, right from the top, make sure you're getting good travel, by adjusting, if necessary, the rod at the slave end.

Has the truck been sitting for a while? You could have the clutch disc rusted (stuck) to the flywheel?

You can try to rock it back and forth with it in gear and the clutch push in to break it loose.

Steve

Tried pulling the left wing today to get to the Master. I did not try any more fluid and air bleed today b/c I found black fluid in the Master reservoir. I think that means my seals are probably blown?

If not I'll go back to pushing the air out, but, I'm thinking I probably just need to replace the master (and the slave while I'm at it).

Odd thing: it did sit for a couple of years after the clutch was fixed last. When I looked underneath the other day, the transmission brake brake drum was hanging on the rear drive shaft! Not a nut in sight! I guess they were removed when they worked on it last at the shop, or maybe it was the PO.

I'm guessing that should be a 5/16 BSF lock nut?

PS: anyone who says removing the wings are easy is a masochist! I think I'm going to invent a tool for working on Series Rovers with just one set of hands!