Printable View
Driving around in the snow and ice is routine use of my II-A, hardly worth mentioning - and I do have to earn a living through the Rover :).
I, too, live in a state with an annual inspection ritual. Some of my maintenance is getting it ready to pass this week!
However, next month is the Maine Winter Romp, a chance to hit the trails and who-knows-what conditions in the woods of central Maine.
Jeff
In my case I'm coming into a little money which is paying for some much needed but previously unfordable maintenance items and I'm fine tuning some gear ratios to better fit the kinds of off road driving I do. Then when the maintenance is completed I plan to take the Dormie out on a multiple month trip.Quote:
Originally Posted by SafeAirOne
In my case the timing has everything to do with some extra money becoming available.
Actually you may be able to help me decide what I am going to do!
I blew out the muffler the other day. When I bought the truck it came with a SS muffler with a crack in it where the tailpipe comes out of the muffler itself (see pic). At the time I just bought another mild steel muffler from our hosts to get the truck inspected. Now I figure that I will repair the SS muffler and put it back on.
I believe the crack was caused by a combo of the muffler being incorrectly supported when and the strikes which caused the dents in it.
My question is, has any one done a quick repair weld on a muffler like this and what sort of wire should I use? I am a fair/unpracticed welder using a 110V Lincoln Mig welder with fluxcore wire.
If it were me I'd just take the truck down to the local muffler shop & tell them I want a new free flow muffler and if they show you that the exhaust tubing is also gone, I suggest going with the next diameter larger pipe.Quote:
Originally Posted by LaneRover
They can generally do a better job than most people can for not all that much more than buying replacement parts at retail. Over time I've become more choosy over which battles I'll fight and which I'll farm out.
Muffler shop may be an option as I have done that with my 109 P-up. But since I have the muffler (and have just had my 1 year wedding anniversary) I figured that I would try to save a bit and see if fixing is an option.Quote:
Originally Posted by TeriAnn
If I do go to the muffler shop I most likely would have them do the next diameter pipe as more flow definitely doesn't hurt!
Well, I just started my series III 109" for the first time in nearly six years, I change the spark plugs and put some new gas in and she started right up, maybe took me fifteen minutes to get her purring. Gotta love my landy!!!! I just need to get the body back together and she'll be back on the road just in time for summer...................I hope! So for all you procrastinators out there, and we all know who we are, there is hope!!!!
I installed some rear mud flaps today and adjusted the clutch pedal play. As always, while tooling around the engine, I noticed a leak by the #3 head bolt just under the #3 fuel injector. It looks like i need to retorque the bolt. I don't feel much like taking the injector off to check the torque. Does anyone have the tool shown in the green bible that allows torqueing of the bolt without removing the injector?
You can make one. Just bend up a good wrench with the "smoke wrench."Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawaii_SIII
So, after 2 hours of snow blowing and digging, the Airportable is now out of the back yard and getting ready for a new home
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23292765@N07/?saved=1
:)
:eek:
I would be all for making one but lack two major items. First, I don't own a "smoke wrench" (propane torch I assume) and secondly haven't seen anyone do it before. If I were to use a cheap wrench, would the open end fit the torque wrench?