clutch ain't a work'n

hey all you sympathetic and technically advanced folks. i was all proud of my 3rd mbr work but the thrill of rov'n is over, now the clutch has quit. i've been noticing that i could let off the pedal quickly and my truck would slowly, really slowly, move on out. 1st notice this few hundred miles ago. today while climbing a steep paved grade i could smell the smell of dying friction plates. with ever stop light the start off got worse until now i let out the clutch and it justs sits there. (tow bar is getting way to much use) how do i id the replacement clutch plate without tearing into it? and while in there what else should i look for and or replace? i'd like to order the parts and hope for the snow to melt before they get here.

Well, if your clutch was the original style then it was a 9". The good news is that the 9.5" clutch will work fine in the 88". I replaced my original 9" clutch with the larger 9.5" version in my 88". You'll need to order a (newer style) pressure plate for the 9.5" clutch, the clutch itself, and probably a new throw out bearing for good measure. There may be a few other small items I'm forgetting, but any good parts supplier can tell you exactly what to get.

Be sure to check your master cylinder and slave cylinder.

thanks, i've heard doing the throw out bearing is a good idea and i was figuring on having a rear main seal standing by. it's good to know that the 9 1/2 will work

I concur with the advice so far with one caveat: Order the throw-out bearing, but understand you probably will not need to replace it (so save the receipt).

Unlike just about every other car (and newer rover, including mine) the throw-out bearing is a plastic disposable piece of crap. On the series tucks, it is a massive roller bearing that I have never seen bad. Mike's '65 is original and perfect, and my '71 is original and perfect. Both of those trucks spent two months in North Africa too, so not just gettin' the groceries around town...

A pilot bearing/bushing (not sure which the series uses now, but I think it's an impregnated bronze bushing) is an excellent idea. And the flywheel could be cracked (Mike's was). Be prepared to possibly replace the flywheel. Mine was not cracked.

The up-rated clutch is a great idea. Definitely be sure the slave, master and all lines and hoses are in good condition.

Carefully check and most likely replace the rear main seal and pan gasket. These are probably shot anyway...

If you are doing it, and have it apart, you might as well do it right.

:thumb-up: good advise here,nothing to add , except you may want to take a peak at the tranny and motor mounts. you will be messing with these as well so take a look.
you may want to get some 3m sealant to put on you floor panels to help a little with the dust,
good luck and remember ,this is suppose to be fun:D

thanks again all. i've heard from another source that the iia throw out gets an oil shower when the trk is in motion so it generally last forever unless you do like i have a couple of times and towed it in neuteral (the oil doesn't splash upon it then). and it's always fun.

i've seen the pics of the singing camel and am most envious. i dream of the day mine looks that good, is that dependable and i've the time to tour the back roads of the world

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Originally Posted by scott

thanks again all. i've heard from another source that the iia throw out gets an oil shower when the trk is in motion so it generally last forever unless you do like i have a couple of times and towed it in neuteral (the oil doesn't splash upon it then).

i'

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True the throw out bearing won't be lubed while towing but since the engine/gearbox isn't being used then it doesn't matter.
The series 2 clutch release system is superior to virtually any other anywhere however it was expensive to manufacture, no doubt why it was changed for the series3.

John

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Originally Posted by a109

The series 2 clutch release system is superior to virtually any other anywhere however it was expensive to manufacture, no doubt why it was changed for the series3.

John

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I agree with that, fine unit... :thumb-up:

some clutch problems can be related to a deteriorated rubber flex hose, especially if it is the original it can break up internally and cause the pedal to be hard to push down, then when you let up on the pedal the fluid is slow to return from the clutch slave cylinder, possibly causing clutch slippage...

landi

i've a new slave but have never messed w/ the mstr. could the slippage cause by a bad mstr you speak of result in absolutely no movement with it in gear and the clutch pedal out?

well i finally got back to Princess Died. that's what i call it. sick humor i know. anyway after a couple of beers, four hours, two banged knuckles and strained brother relations i got the tranny out. the four hours didn't inlcude the seats and floor boards, did them a couple of weeks ago. clutch plate was a 9 1/2 and the last dude didn't bother changing the fly wheel from two to three dowls. he/she didn't even drill a hole in the pressure plate for the one dowl. anyway the fly is in great shape but i'm going to have it machined. the prsr plt is pretty ripped up. that side of the clutch was worn past the rivets.
as i said the fly has two dowls, six threaded holes and two unthreaded holes that look like they're in the right place for a three dowl configuration but the holes look big. do you just pull the one dowl like an old tooth and tap in the new ones?