Carquest Grease and LubeEP 90 GL-4 Gear Oil, 1 Gallon$16.99Any good YES or NO ?
Attachment 13925
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Carquest Grease and LubeEP 90 GL-4 Gear Oil, 1 Gallon$16.99Any good YES or NO ?
Attachment 13925
I worked at the Amoco refinery in Caspar Wyoming for a while. I saw the same oil go into many different cans. Anymore I just look at the rating on the container. Anymore there isn't much difference between most of them but one time I bought a 5 gallon bucket of Bardahl and the difference was notable instantly. It coasted better and i got better gas mileage etc.
You're no doubt fine with the carquest oil and it's probably canned in one of the popular refinerys but high grade lubricants that cost accordingly are out there and worth looking at, especially if you are in low temps a lot or freeway driving or humidity is a issue and the like.
Should be just fine! Just a different jug
after going to 3 stores for a 2.5 gallon jug of brand x 90 wt. for the dozer I ended up in O'reillys with a 5 gal. pail of 75-90 for $149!!
later I realized it's "full synthetic" , I think i'll redo all the gear boxes on the Land Rover and put the old 90 wt. in the dozer but now I wonder what I would of paid for plain old 90 wt?
Hi Jim. I was about to ask the same question regarding the Carquest. I am getting close to needing to fill all my diff, swivel axles, trans and transfer case for my rolling chassis. The whole EP90 GL4 requirement is making my head spin. Anyhow I was leaning towards that Carquest. Seems like a good value and I am sure it will work fine. Many of the other EP90 GL4 products are 3-4 times the cost. I cannot imagine that what was put into my 1969 2A at Solihull would have been any better than carquest : ).
I do think from all my research I want the EP90 GL4 for sure. Also trying to stay away from synthetic. But I think this is less of a concern since the seals I am using are not original type designs where a conventional based lubricant might be better. For example on my MGB the Lockheed/Girling rubber seals in the brake system are designed to work with Castrol GLMA brake fluid. You put anything else and the seals will not swell the same and then leak.
Tom
yup, when young and smarter I filled my brake system with "brake fluid" and had to rebuild the whole shebang of course. then dot 4 but now I use strictly dot 5 synthetic.
the synthetic 75-90 i'm sure is thinner so you may leak a bit more but if you don't mind the cost i'd use it, I can forsee no way it a detriment to Land Rover gear boxes........... well, our series anyway.
I may of mentioned previously I bought a bucket of bardahl k90 wt. and could tell the difference immediatly. this was 1982 or 3 as I drove it down thru mexico on that oil.
I thought you guys would like that Carquest EP 90 GL-4 Gear Oil, 1 Gallon it's priced reasonably and available anywhere in the states. If you want the fancy stuff EP90 Castrol Classic it's a bit more money, But you get a nice looking can to put on your garage shelf.
link to the fancy stuff https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RX179...8aAve7EALw_wcBAttachment 13938
yes, those metal cans are becoming a rarity. i buy a can of kroil oil occasionally & save them. You sponsor a question of how much oil it takes for the swivels, diffs, xfer and main boxes, winch and any pto...... I believe 5 gallons does the trick as I recall?
Hello. I wanted to post a quick update here. I purchased this Carquest gear oil for my 2A project. FYI it has been rebranded to Fram. The independent Carquest guy reassured me it is the same thing. The rebrand had something to do with Advance auto now owning Carquest. It seems like a good product. I have used much more expensive gear oils in the past and this product would be visually indistinguishable from a more expensive version. Sometimes I wonder if they all come from the same refinery: ).Will report back once I have some miles on it. Cheers. Tom
I use to work in a Amoco Refinery and many different brand names of oil boxes were filled with the same oil. It was all legit for sure. Most oil advertisments focus on one aspect of the oil or another but the suppliers use the SAE code on the container ......the ratings, most start with a S it seems and that's what one needs to learn as it's about all you need to know about oil.