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Thread: best way to remove/replace exhaust manifold

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Front royal va
    Posts
    227

    Default best way to remove/replace exhaust manifold

    this is for a 2.25.. ive heard a leak for some time and found its where the pipe bolts to the bottom of the manifold. looks like one of the studs went to far in the manifold and cracked it. the rest of the system in faily new. im worried about breaking off 46 year old bolts and stripping nuts. what should i be careful of and look out for???, and tips would be helpful, thanks, nathan

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL and Maine
    Posts
    1,743

    Default

    Nathan no reason to worry because they will snap off!

    I have one Rover that ALWAYS snaps the studs even if I have replaced them in the last year. Another where they don't seem to be a problem! But after 40 some-odd years if none of them snap it might be a sign of the end times.

    I have had luck with stud extractors - both the kind the grip what is left and also with drilling into the stud if it breaks off flush.

    But if the leak is in between the manifold and the downpipe you don't have to remove the manifold. The joint can be tightened (though most likely that will be VERY unprobable if it hasn't been touched in 40 years). I would plan on the studs snapping and be ready with stud extractors, drill and new hardware.

    LaneRover

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL and Maine
    Posts
    1,743

    Default

    Ignore the bit about not having to remove the manifold - now that I reread your post I see that it is cracked.

    Doh! Doh! Doh!

    LaneRover

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Phoenix AZ
    Posts
    1,358

    Default

    PB Blaster is your friend.

    Apply at least once a day for several days before the adventure. Then make sure you have the right tools. Use a six point socket that really fits or, if you have the money and can find them, Metrinch sockets work every time. Then apply torque smoothly gradually increasing until things break loose. A socket drive with a longer handle helps a lot here. Jerking at things makes them break.

    On reassembly apply lots of anti sieze - you'll thank yourself next time you do the job.

    Cheers
    Gregor

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    city of maples
    Posts
    398

    Default

    the torch is your friend here, cherry em (get em red)one bolt,nut at a time and the should back right out.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Front royal va
    Posts
    227

    Default

    a special thanks to steve in sales . he told me to spray pb blaster on the bolts and studs, run the truck for twenty minutes or so, get the engine nice and hot. then get the wrenching! every bolt came out with easy one handed wrenching. it didnt take more than ten minutes to get them all out, and disconnect the downpipe.now i wait for the new one to arrive from rover north, thanks again steve!!!
    heres the damage, someone heli-cored where the downpipe bolts to the manifold, one heli-core pulled out, there is one leak, the other is the four inch crack along the top
    Last edited by 1961 109 WAGON; 03-10-2008 at 05:29 PM.

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