The owner says the engine will run. It is complete, had large battery on both fender wells. The original generator in place I am considering changing the deisel out to a 2.25 lt. if I buy it.
Brad
The owner says the engine will run. It is complete, had large battery on both fender wells. The original generator in place I am considering changing the deisel out to a 2.25 lt. if I buy it.
Brad
Thanks, I appreciate the advise and your right a Series 2 has been my desire for quite a while. I agree with all seals, the rubber, brakes, seats, and paint. The engine will depend on how it runs when fired. All accessories are fairly easy to replace. I'd prefer to convert it to neg. ground and an altenator. The dash in in good shape, all glass is ok, one crack, floor pans didn't have rust, doors were ok, even had liners in place.
I did check the frame and there was grease and oil around most of the front, helps prevent rust. The doors were ok, bulkhead was hard to examine, it was covered with cables, hoses, etc. I would use the vehicle occationally and not mind the low speed limit, maybe even covert it to bio-deisel
They are naturals for biodiesel. As someone mentioned previously, parts for this engine will be hard to come by. It is also the least powerful of the LR diesels. If you are willing to put a little $$ into the truck, a series rig already set up for diesel is a natural conversion to a 200 tdi. It will provide more power than the common 2.25L petrol and if you put the effort into it after a veggie oil conversion your fuel can be free for your labour.Originally Posted by bdaniel
Just a thought.
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Teriann Wakeman_________
Flagstaff, AZ.
1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978
My Land Rover web site
Terri, do you mean boring out the 2Lt? Or a swap? Will the newer deisels fit?
Brad
Though I have not had any experience with Rover diesels, I would say that if you are just going to use it occasionally around town, the Rover Diesel would be fine. My Rovers seem to love 45mph even with the 2.25 petrol. They will top out much higher but are still not speed demons in any way, shape or form.
I don't believe that Terri-Ann is talking about boring yours out but is talking about an engine swap.
If the engine runs, drive it like that while you decide what to do. Just remember that with a newer more powerful engine the brakes may not seem quite as 'adequate' as with the 2 liter diesel.
LaneRover
The Series II engine bay will hold any 4 cyl engine the Factory put into a SIIA or SIII with a minimum of work that includes the 2.5L turbo diesel.Originally Posted by bdaniel
The more powerful 200tdi engine requires new engine mounts plus a little more effort but has about twice the power of a 2L LR diesel. the tdis require a new radiator and an intercooler. It would have the power to be a daily driver and some set ups get mid plus MPG. Of course if you do it on french fry oil it will lust cost your labour once you get the fuel system set up.
The engine has to be imported but is a worthwhile conversion. The newer 300tdi can be made to fit but requires a bit more work. If I were driving an 88 I would have had a tdi engine under the bonnet a decade ago.
If you decide to go with a tdi, give Zeus timing gears a thought.
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Teriann Wakeman_________
Flagstaff, AZ.
1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978
My Land Rover web site
My suggestion is to gauge how much time you have to spend rather than money. I'm certainly no expert, but the kind of resto you are considering will take more time than money, although the money part won't be insubstantial.
Best of luck though! Remember, if you dive in, deep water is better than shallow!